I got my engine rebuilt last week and ever since the car just keeps turning off after I drive it for more than 10 min. I will pull up to a stop sign or red light and the revs just fall to 400 rpm. I had them install a bigger cam so will it need tuning for it to run smooth and not shut off? Could it also be the IAC valve that need to be replaced or a vacuum leak? It also shuts off when I've been driving it for 10 min and I put it into reverse or park. Thanks. These are my cam specs

 

Sounds like a heat related issue. Have you checked fuel pressure ?
Does it fire right back up after it stalls ?
The cam does need to be tuned for but I don’t think it’s the main issue for the engine dying.
The engine could be flooding if you installed larger injectors you can always do a plug read.

 

Yes It starts up right away and I installed bigger injectors too

 

It could be loading up you might want to read the plugs.

 

You might want to do the IAC Reset procedure first.
Follow this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...988-trans.html

 

Have you watched the int and blm ?
You will need to get a aldl cable with a 10k mode to tune the cam.
http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl1-p-127.html
Here’s a good deal but you need a g1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...equipment.html

 

You can also adjust the Iac steps to 20-25 at idle using a scan tool or tuner pro rt.

 

Did you figure out the issue? I'm having similar problems

 

no I haven't, but I'm going to try and reset the idle control valve and see if that works.

 

Clean the IAC and air passages first. Then clean the throttle body, both the bores and plates.

There is no such thing as a "reset" of the IAC on a TPI. It is under full control of the ECM.

 

oh ok thanks a lot

 

Did you ever solve this problem? I am having the same issue and can’t figure it out.

 

That it stalls. or you put together an engine with a bigger cam/etc?

Does your SE light come on, and have you pulled codes? There was a how to in the tech section here years ago, but if no scan tool, a paper clip between the Far right upper and lower (I think) terminals and turn the key to on (don't start it) will give the flashes...so flash-flash.........flash-flash-flash, would be a 23, it will flash the code 3 or 4 times, then flash the next code set. Probably a better explanation on top, but all I got now

 

It should always flash Code 12 first
@Toddler007 we need more information to help you. As Mike asked, are you in the same boat with a bigger cam and injectors or are you having issues on an otherwise stock engine? As mentioned above, the first step is to always clean the IAC and housing, then perform a min idle reset procedure. If you are not using a system to read and log data, troubleshooting will be much more difficult.

 

Good point, as I recall, Code 12 will be there when checking because the key is on, and no ignition pulses seen...so just assume it will be there at every paperclip code check.

 

If it is not, bad ECM