I am getting my alum. driveshaft this week hopefully. IT comes with U-joints etc. Would it be best to jack up the side of the car and use jack stands to get access? Also is it just the 4 bolts to undo? Any experience and pointers are appreciated.

Felix

 

Jack it up under the pumpkin on the rearend, that's what I did and it was a breeze. If you jack from the sides, you may cause the car to flex. Use jackstands if you feel you'll be under there a while.

1. Loosen the (4) 7/16" bolts on the pinion yoke, drop it down, and pull to the rear to remove it from the tranny. I'd install a new rear trans seal while you have the shaft out, it's cheap insurance.

2. Lube up the seal and yoke with some tranny fluid, slide the yoke in, reinstall it in the pinion yoke.

Pretty easy and the best $70 I spent on the RS. Took care of the bad vibration I had.

Good luck.


Ed

 

Also expect some fluild to leak out from the tranny so be ready for it. I hate cleaning up spills.

 

EB, you got an aluminum shaft for 70 bucks???

 

If you have ramps, just back the car up onto the ramps and you should have enough room to change it.

Did that in no time when I swapped my alum from the Camaro to the T/A.

 

I would jack from under the rear instead. You may have to spin the shaft to be be able to get to all the bolts on the driveshaft which will mean you'll need both wheels in the air (for a posi car like mine anyways)

 

Leave the front tires on the ground, jack up the rear and put JACK STANDS! (don't use only a jack) under the chassispads just in front of the front LCA mounts. Now remove the jack from under the rear end allowing the srear suspension to fully unload- what this does is drops the angle of the driveshaft and allows it to rest more outward on the transmission output shaft, thus giving you more room to slide it forward out and away from the rear diff yoke after you unbolt it- and as Steve said, it allow the yoke/wheels fredom of rotation to get the new one back in.

 

The driveshaft might not budge when you take off the strap bolts for the u-joint at the axle; if so, just stick a pry bar in the u-joint "on the axle side", and pry against the pinion yoke to get the driveshaft to push "forward" into the rear of the trans.

If you're not going to replace the rear trans seal, before you do this job, put some new trans fluid on a rag. Wipe down the outside of the yoke right before it enters the tranny; get all the dirt off there. When you slide the new d-shaft in, put some new trans fluid on the outside of the new yoke.

 

Yep...Got it from a guy on CZ28.com. He mentioned that it had a "scratch" near the rear yoke and no one else would touch it sight unseen after he said that. I bought it and couldn't have gotten a better deal, it fit perfectly. The scratch was apparently from something he ran over.

Yep, I agree. You will more than likely have to spin the shaft a bit to get to all the bolts. Jack up the rear!


Oh, and what TomP said


Ed

 

Thanks guys, that is exactly the quality of advice that makes this the World Class site that it is!


Cheers,
Felix

 

Sorry I missed this. I jacked mine up from the rear, under the pumpkin and used stands under the axle. I didn't spill a single drop of fluid. I was expecting a gusher and got nothing. So gravtiy works...with nose pointing down, fluid will not come out.


Ed