Grr Snapped Tranny X member bolt off.
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Grr Snapped Tranny X member bolt off.
Breaker bars and rusty bolts dont mix well. The bolt snapped right at the head. There is however the thickness of the x member left on the bolt. Somthing like 1/4 of the bolt is still sticking out. Any Suggs? I was thinking of getting some mapp gas on it and getting it red and trying to get it out with vise grips but I'm thinking that if a breaker bar snapped the bolt then its going to not work. Let me know if you have an idea. Thanks
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From: Nanticoke, Pa
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
If you have the time, hit it 3x a day for a few days with pb blaster. This stuff is great. Pep boys sells it. Then I would heat the snot out of it and use the vice grip trick. If that fails we can tell you our other methods. Good luck
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Am I also better off drilling out the center very small then putting in a small extractor along with your method? It would seem this would be better trying to unscrew it then the visegrips.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,367
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From: Nanticoke, Pa
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
The problem with using the extracter first is, if it snaps off it is almost impossible to drill out. Ask me how I found that out! If vise grips snap off the bold flush or simply do not work you can skip to drilling. I would wait if it were me though.
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Drill a hole 1/8" straight through the middle of the bolt. Then heat it up with a torch, get it red hot if you can, and then immediately spray it with a water hose. The rapid cooling will cause the bolt to contract and it will screw right out.
My father-in-law ran a machine shop for about 30 years. He showed me this trick and it works VERY well.
My father-in-law ran a machine shop for about 30 years. He showed me this trick and it works VERY well.
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From: northeast ohio
Car: 2000 astro
Engine: 4.3
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 3.42 gears
here is the best way i know how.
buy a set of drill bits. measure one of the unsnapped bolts, and compare it to a bit just slightly smaller in size. also use the bolt to determine how deep you need to drill.
starting in the very center of the bolt, drill a 1/8" hole. gradually increase the size of the bit until you have an amount of leftover bolt that you can pick out with a small chisel and pair of pliers.
take your time, and don't rush.
buy a set of drill bits. measure one of the unsnapped bolts, and compare it to a bit just slightly smaller in size. also use the bolt to determine how deep you need to drill.
starting in the very center of the bolt, drill a 1/8" hole. gradually increase the size of the bit until you have an amount of leftover bolt that you can pick out with a small chisel and pair of pliers.
take your time, and don't rush.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 258
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From: Illinois
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe LT
Engine: 357
Transmission: turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi, 3.73 gears
i broke one off last time i changed the tranny mount, and i just left it, but thats just me, i figured 3 bolts should hold it good enough, at least for now
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Here's another great option.
If u know someone with a machine shop or in a mill(steel/iron) environment. The name of the bit slips my mind, but we use a friend of ours' "superbit "lol.
We drill out the busted bolt in about 30 seconds and just retap and go. they are expensive, cost about 20$ a bit .
The drilling a 1/8 hole and heating it and then quenching it alos seems like a good way to go to.
Other than what I have said above, its that or drill and extractor and drill some more.
I just expect to have to drill or tap them any time they come out(pia). I use antisieze everytime they go in or out.
If I find the name of the bit I will post it back here, I might see him later
later
Jeremy
If u know someone with a machine shop or in a mill(steel/iron) environment. The name of the bit slips my mind, but we use a friend of ours' "superbit "lol.
We drill out the busted bolt in about 30 seconds and just retap and go. they are expensive, cost about 20$ a bit .
The drilling a 1/8 hole and heating it and then quenching it alos seems like a good way to go to.
Other than what I have said above, its that or drill and extractor and drill some more.
I just expect to have to drill or tap them any time they come out(pia). I use antisieze everytime they go in or out.
If I find the name of the bit I will post it back here, I might see him later
later
Jeremy
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 615
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From: Buckeye AZ
Engine: 305TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: B&W 9 Bolt 3.73
the 1st time i removed my tranny i broke 2 bolts off flush with the holes, it was alot work to drill and tap new threads considering i had 20 inches of clearance to work with, but i'd have to say the larger bolts, (they've got a 7/8ths head on them) work just fine.
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