I have ’92 RS with a T-5, I need to get the transmissions rebuild (don’t have time to do it my self). Any ideas what a decent price to pay would be and more importantly any one know a good place to take it in Western New York.

 

About 2-3 times as much as a good used one will cost. Don't do it; just go to the junkyard and get another. Those things are a dime a dozen, they're everywhere.

What makes you think it needs to be rebuilt? It would rather suck if you did a bunch of transmission work and (for example) it still ground going into all the gears, or was stiff to shift when hot.

 

FWIW, I grenaded a T5 here recently and (because there were few salvageable parts) had to buy a reman, it was $850, and I remember thinking I coulda put that money to a T56 or a Richmond, but I needed the car.
The funny part is the reman guy got the tranny core with the parts tie wrapped together.

 

The reason I think I need a rebuild is shifting is very hard, down shift is almost impossible (won’t go into gear and when I try to go into reverse I have always get a grinding sound (only time I get any kind of sound out of it) and have to slam the stick hard to get there. The clutch feels fine (when I put it to the floor it doesn’t feel like it is grabbing or anything) it’s just the shifting between gears that is an issue. The car has about 190,000 miles on it, previous owner rebuild the engine but I’m almost positive the transmission is original.

 

Exactly why I asked....

The transmission isn't the problem. It's the clutch.

Replace the clutch. Leave the transmission alone. Don't forget to replace the pilot bearing, and put the throwuout on the fork correctly, and have the flywheel resurfaced.

Doesn't sound to me like there's anything at all wrong with the transmission.

 

What he said, except that I would replace the fork as well.
1. question now that we know it's the clutch, are the hydraulic cylinders working properly? Prior to digging into the bellhousing.

 

If it's always been like this ever since you've had the car, then it's entirely possible that the PO installed the throwout bearing incorrectly, as often happens.

The hydraulics don't just "go bad" and only work the clutch partially. They either work, or they don't; and virtually 100% of the time, the only way they fail, is that something bursts (either a cyl or the line). If nothing is burst, they're probably fine; and the problem lies with the clutch itself. So, verify that the end of the fork that the slave cyl pushes on, moves about 5/8" (that being approximately the spec); and if it does, then move on, and leave the hydraulics alone.

The main thing to avoid here, is the "shotgun" approach; the "maybe it's this, maybe it's that, I'll just replace the easy-to-get-to stuff" straight short road to automotive Hell. Instead, understand how the system works, and based on a logical analysis of the actual symptoms, identify the faulty part.

Let me repeat: THIS IS NOT A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. There is nothing about a transmission that can produce the symptoms you describe. It is not possible for a transmission to do that to itself. IT IS A CLUTCH PROBLEM. The transmission is merely the victim: the problem lies elsewhere, but the symptoms appear at the transmission. For whatever reason, the engine is not being fully disengaged from the transmission when the clutch pedal is pushed. Either the clutch itself isn't working right (usually from incorrect assembly), or the pilot bearing is bad.

 

if anyone want to get a rebuilt t-5 go to www.mantrans.com their out of tallahassee fl. i got mine for 650 plus 100 shipping for their unit to me and my core to them

 

i rebuilt mine for 450.that was with the rebuild kit and third and cluster gears

 

Mine was rebuilt back around 97 or so. It was $450 and it included all new syncros and seals. 2nd gear was replaced also. The guy said it didn't look bad but was not mating up correctly so he put in a new one.

 

Mine came from mantrans and it was $850, that's in 2005 dollars.

 

i just got mine last week for the above mentioned 650. the reason i went with route is that the idiot i bought the cat from a few months ago had put in a v6 t-5 ans ans-10 clutch. it also had the z-bar all out of whack so i just decided to go full pop and get a new t-5 for a v-8 and convert over to hydaulic clutch setup

 

Sounds like I'll be doing a little ***chewing

 

note: shipping was $100 to and from for the core

 

TKOPerformance rebuilds the WC T5 to handle 450 hp for under $1,000, plus shipping--but RB83L69 is wise in these matters. I'll send my '91 T5 to TKOPerformance one day for the upgrade and never run over 350 hp.--but I have a T56 in another car and the difference in feel is incredible.

 

So what would cause the trans not to be able to down shift from 4th to 3rd. Syncros?

 

Clutch!!!!!!!! Yes!!!!!!!!!! Don't go overboard. I did. I spent 5grand on rebuilds, shipping, T56, and conversions. All I really needed was a 120 dollar clutch. I found out there are more reasons for using hydraulic clutches than being smooth. The hydraulic system is designed to make the clutch feel brand new till it disappears. I was using my back woods bayou common sense and all it did was cost me alot of money and eventually caused me to lose the Camaro

 

i have a similar problem. the gears are sometimes tight to shift in, like i'll have trouble shifting in to first once in a while, and 4th always grinds from neutral to 4th shift, but never grinds from 3rd to 4th.

i think it's the synchro, but a friend of mine had a similar problem (the tight shifting) when his clutch was bad.

the clutch does feel strong though, it doesnt slip at all.. even if i launch at 4-5k...

 

I had similar problems. it was the 3/4 syncros

i rebuilt my own. All new bearings and syncros Parts $150, busted 5th gear in removal process $150, experience priceless.

I think you have a syncro problem. The syncros match shaft speed between shifts. when they wear out, it will grind because the syncros are trying to ingage in the sliders at differnt speeds.

 

My car always grinds 1st to 2nd... I just jam it in there

Everything that has to do with the clutch is new. It's gotta be my tranny!


But in your case, I had the same problem in my 84. Replaced the clutch (Luk, like $150) and all was well!

 

How many of you guys complaining of issues are running gear oil in the t-5 instead of ATF or syncromesh? That was my problem. These trannies shifts like a$$ unless you got the right fluid in it.

 

YES! AAMCO put gear oil in mine

I know the world class ones used ATF, but I think SOME of the others used gear oil. No idea what ones though.

 

supposedly it's 82-83 that are supposed to use gear oil. That's what my Haynes says anyway... I think with syncromesh you can't go wrong, I'm not sure about ATF (although I suspect they're very similar).

 

Hope this helps,
82-85 4speed 80w/90w gl-5 gear oil
86-87 4speed Dexron II auto fluid
82-84 5speed 80w/90w gl-5 oil
85-92 5speed Dexron II auto fluid
This is from a chilton manual .

 

on my rebuilt t-5 from mantrans it had a tag that stated to use 5w-30 sythetic so i called and verified and was told to use reg.oil just sythetic

 

Did you drain it and put the correct fluid in? My T5 has a tag right on the case that says to use ATF only. Gear oil is not compatable with some of the friction materials used in the World Class T5.

 

No, I did not, and the bearings went in it. They also had replaced my clutch, and didn't change the throwout bearing!! So I have a whining tranny and a cricket in my clutch.

Then when I went back for everything to be fixed under warranty, the guy had closed up shop and took off to Florida.

So yah, AAMCO sucks.