10 bolt rearend power withstanding?
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 77
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From: DFW, TX
Car: 1992 RS Black
Engine: 305 TBI(LT1 swap soon)
Transmission: T5 (T56 for LT1 swap)
Axle/Gears: 4.10
10 bolt rearend power withstanding?
I have a 10 bolt posi rearend out of a 89 Iroc with 2.77 gears. I was wondering how much power these 10 bolt can take. Would it be worth getting rebuilt and could it withstand a 400wrhp daily driver? I would change the gears of coarse if its worth it, or should I just get a LT1, LS1 or wait for and save on a Moser 12 bolt?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,273
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
No matter how much you beef it up, you still have a tiny ring and pinion.
The one I had was beefed up. Aftermarket 28 spline axles, 4.10 gears, welded axle tubes, LPW rear cover with bearing cap supports, solid crush sleeve. I ran mid to low 11's with it. I only swapped in a 9" when I installed a transbrake in the car.
The one I had was beefed up. Aftermarket 28 spline axles, 4.10 gears, welded axle tubes, LPW rear cover with bearing cap supports, solid crush sleeve. I ran mid to low 11's with it. I only swapped in a 9" when I installed a transbrake in the car.
For starters you do not have a 10-bolt rear with that gear ratio. 1989 IROC with a 350 TPI came stock with a BW 9-bolt with your 2:77 ratio.
Do more reseach & correct info before asking questios.
Do more reseach & correct info before asking questios.
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
For starters you do not have a 10-bolt rear with that gear ratio. 1989 IROC with a 350 TPI came stock with a BW 9-bolt with your 2:77 ratio.
Do more reseach & correct info before asking questios.
For starters you do not have a 10-bolt rear with that gear ratio. 1989 IROC with a 350 TPI came stock with a BW 9-bolt with your 2:77 ratio.
Do more reseach & correct info before asking questios.
If you do have a 10 bolt in the car, just put it together properly and it will last a while. Assuming no slicks and hard launches. I have a 4.10 10 bolt behind my 430hp/460tq motor and bracket race it. Haven't broken it yet
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
DF'sCamaro: Count your cover bolts. If you've got the 9 bolt 2:77 your rear end is already stronger than the 10 bolt, but your rebuild options are narrower and more expensive. www.9bolt.com can give you some info on it, they say not to run it with loose posi.
If you've got the 10 bolt you can buy some stronger pieces for it, run it til (if) the gears blow then hit a JY for some replacements. I'd call around before spending upgrade money. Complete rears around here are 150-250.
Later models (LT1, LS1, etc.) all used the same 10 bolt with the only strength change being upgraded axles after 89. Fourth gen rears are slightly wider.
If you've got the 10 bolt you can buy some stronger pieces for it, run it til (if) the gears blow then hit a JY for some replacements. I'd call around before spending upgrade money. Complete rears around here are 150-250.
Later models (LT1, LS1, etc.) all used the same 10 bolt with the only strength change being upgraded axles after 89. Fourth gen rears are slightly wider.
Originally posted by Dialed_In
Thank you forum police
Give the guy a break.
If you do have a 10 bolt in the car, just put it together properly and it will last a while. Assuming no slicks and hard launches. I have a 4.10 10 bolt behind my 430hp/460tq motor and bracket race it. Haven't broken it yet
Thank you forum police
If you do have a 10 bolt in the car, just put it together properly and it will last a while. Assuming no slicks and hard launches. I have a 4.10 10 bolt behind my 430hp/460tq motor and bracket race it. Haven't broken it yet
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
You are so smart, why didn't you correct him and now go on with your dumb reply. Its all right for someone to order parts when they don't know what they have.
You are so smart, why didn't you correct him and now go on with your dumb reply. Its all right for someone to order parts when they don't know what they have.
Life goes on..............na na na naaaaa Life Goes On.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: DFW, TX
Car: 1992 RS Black
Engine: 305 TBI(LT1 swap soon)
Transmission: T5 (T56 for LT1 swap)
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I do have a 10 bolt, I counted the bolts on the cover and there's 10. I am over at a friends so can't get the sn, but the other tag said ratio 2.77. Just trying to see if the rearend worth putting a few 100 dollars into to hold a 400rwhp daily driver(if rebuilt).
Originally posted by Dialed_In
Hey Corky, he could have a 10 bolt in the car. How was my reply dumb?
Life goes on..............na na na naaaaa Life Goes On.
Hey Corky, he could have a 10 bolt in the car. How was my reply dumb?
Life goes on..............na na na naaaaa Life Goes On.
2:77 BW ratio, Corky Bub
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If it has a tag that says 2:77, the tag probably came from a 9-bolt rear. 10-bolt rears shouldn't have a tag and didn't come in the 2:77 ratio.
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,685
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
2:77 BW ratio, Corky Bub
2:77 BW ratio, Corky Bub
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by DF'sCamaro
I do have a 10 bolt, I counted the bolts on the cover and there's 10. I am over at a friends so can't get the sn, but the other tag said ratio 2.77. Just trying to see if the rearend worth putting a few 100 dollars into to hold a 400rwhp daily driver(if rebuilt).
I do have a 10 bolt, I counted the bolts on the cover and there's 10. I am over at a friends so can't get the sn, but the other tag said ratio 2.77. Just trying to see if the rearend worth putting a few 100 dollars into to hold a 400rwhp daily driver(if rebuilt).
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Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
to bring together the snippets of info you've read so far in beefing it up:
-solid pinion spacer to replace crush sleeve - Ratch, P/N 4111
-weld axle tubes (not REALLY that great, but cheap)
-zytanium cross shaft (same as above)
-rear end girdle. I got the summit $139 one, jegs makes one also. The one from TA performance is a bit more $, but they also make a stud kit for the main caps, which is cheaper if you buy it with the cap, so....
-28 spline axles, ie, from a '90-92 f-body, or moser, etc.
-posi meant for 28 splines, and the correct series based on your gearset... ie, 3.23 or higher, 3 series posi. Can be from 90-'02 Fbody, or aftermarket
-new gearset, stronger than factory.
I've done, 1,2,3 and 4.
-solid pinion spacer to replace crush sleeve - Ratch, P/N 4111
-weld axle tubes (not REALLY that great, but cheap)
-zytanium cross shaft (same as above)
-rear end girdle. I got the summit $139 one, jegs makes one also. The one from TA performance is a bit more $, but they also make a stud kit for the main caps, which is cheaper if you buy it with the cap, so....
-28 spline axles, ie, from a '90-92 f-body, or moser, etc.
-posi meant for 28 splines, and the correct series based on your gearset... ie, 3.23 or higher, 3 series posi. Can be from 90-'02 Fbody, or aftermarket
-new gearset, stronger than factory.
I've done, 1,2,3 and 4.
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