What causes a wheel bearing to go bad in the rear. I just replaced mine the begaing of this month and it just stared making the groaning noise again. What gives? I used the autozone brand because that's were I always shop at. And had napa take the old one off and put the new one on. Could it be because I didn't change the diff fluid at the same time. I did it maybe a week later. If so. Why is the drivers side still fine. I want to find the problem instead of replacing a bearing every month. Thanks in advance for all the help! Adam :-)

 

what rear 9bolt? did you replace the outer race in the housing? and yes you should change the diff fluid. that also brings up the question of fluid level. was it full

 

Yes it's a 9 bolt. I replaced this 2 peacepart and the seal. Did I miss somthing? The fluid level seemed fine when I drained it. It was just old, black and smelled like crap. I filled it back up with royal purple. But if it was the oil's fault. Why is it just the passengers side? I real noticed it when I had someone in the rear passenger set. It did it pretty good then. And now it dose it when I turn. I don't remeber which way, but it only dose it one way. I know it's the passenger rear though. Thanks for any help. Adam :-)

 

that does seem odd... I guess I would start with removing that axle shaft and inspecting it and verify it is toast again. if not check the other side. it very well could be the posi making noise, something with the brakes and so on. heck even the seal or retainer on the axle.

I guess to keep this a simple as possiable start by inspecting that axle shaft and it's related parts. being it only does it on a turn it sounds more likely it is something else

 

you didn't over tighten the bearing by chance did you? It's pretty easy to fry wheel bearings when they are overtightened.

I'm sure you already thought of this but, if the axle seal is leaking that's a good reason to warrant bearing replacement.

g/l hopefully it's something cheap and easy.

 

Well. Since we were working on the rear of the car and had it in the air. I pulled the axle out to check the bearing (I love this no c-clip stuff!!! lol.). It looked brand new and had no signs of wear. And it shouldn't for not even being a month old. lol. So I cleaned it up and we greased the crap out of it when we reinstalled it. I haven't heared a groan out of it in the last week. I even had a third person in the back passenger side again. And not a sound came out, unlike the last time. I'll give another post after a month to tell you guys if it's still going good. Thanks again for all the help! Adam :-)

 

If you just changed the drivers side, the passenger side already had oil on it. The new bearing has a light coat on it to keep it from rusting untill it's used but not enough to run down the road for a week when the differential might be low on fluid which it could have been being your changing the bearing in the first place. The damage could be already done and the grease might be the short term fix. Might want to check the inside of the axel tube for wear also. If you start having problems again and decide to pull the axel out, check the inner bearing race that should be tight on the axel. Then check for any slop in the bearing by wiggling the outer race. If all thats good, stick the axel back in the tube all the way and check for up and down movement to check the axel tube for wear. Needless to say, everything should be tight with no slop or your going to hear noise.
Think of your axel bearings as connecting rod bearings, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to start making noise.

 

If you just changed the drivers side, the passenger side already had oil on it. The new bearing has a light coat on it to keep it from rusting untill it's used but not enough to run down the road for a week when the differential might be low on fluid which it could have been being your changing the bearing in the first place. The damage could be already done and the grease might be the short term fix. Might want to check the inside of the axel tube for wear also. If you start having problems again and decide to pull the axel out, check the inner bearing race that should be tight on the axel. Then check for any slop in the bearing by wiggling the outer race. If all thats good, stick the axel back in the tube all the way and check for up and down movement to check the axel tube for wear. Needless to say, everything should be tight with no slop or your going to hear noise.
Think of your axel bearings as connecting rod bearings, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to start making noise.

 

If you just changed the drivers side, the passenger side already had oil on it. The new bearing has a light coat on it to keep it from rusting untill it's used but not enough to run down the road for a week when the differential might be low on fluid which it could have been being your changing the bearing in the first place. The damage could be already done and the grease might be the short term fix. Might want to check the inside of the axel tube for wear also. If you start having problems again and decide to pull the axel out, check the inner bearing race that should be tight on the axel. Then check for any slop in the bearing by wiggling the outer race. If all thats good, stick the axel back in the tube all the way and check for up and down movement to check the axel tube for wear. Needless to say, everything should be tight with no slop or your going to hear noise.
Think of your axel bearings as connecting rod bearings, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to start making noise.

 

If you just changed the drivers side, the passenger side already had oil on it. The new bearing has a light coat on it to keep it from rusting untill it's used but not enough to run down the road for a week when the differential might be low on fluid which it could have been being your changing the bearing in the first place. The damage could be already done and the grease might be the short term fix. Might want to check the inside of the axel tube for wear also. If you start having problems again and decide to pull the axel out, check the inner bearing race that should be tight on the axel. Then check for any slop in the bearing by wiggling the outer race. If all thats good, stick the axel back in the tube all the way and check for up and down movement to check the axel tube for wear. Needless to say, everything should be tight with no slop or your going to hear noise.
Think of your axel bearings as connecting rod bearings, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to start making noise.

 

If you just changed the drivers side, the passenger side already had oil on it. The new bearing has a light coat on it to keep it from rusting untill it's used but not enough to run down the road for a week when the differential might be low on fluid which it could have been being your changing the bearing in the first place. The damage could be already done and the grease might be the short term fix. Might want to check the inside of the axel tube for wear also. If you start having problems again and decide to pull the axel out, check the inner bearing race that should be tight on the axel. Then check for any slop in the bearing by wiggling the outer race. If all thats good, stick the axel back in the tube all the way and check for up and down movement to check the axel tube for wear. Needless to say, everything should be tight with no slop or your going to hear noise.
Think of your axel bearings as connecting rod bearings, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to start making noise.

 

sorry, double post!