Does anyone make a manual valve body for the 700r4?

 

Im sure someone does.. but why would you want one 700s are pretty much worthless for racing you would be further ahead going to a manual valve body Th-350 or 400... and you definatly dont want a manual VB in a street car , they are fun for about the first five miles in traffic!

 

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.html

Bowtie overdrives has a lot of good info on the 700r4

 

sweet thanks, i need OD though

 

If you "need" OD, then I'm geussing you're streeting the car. I would highly reccomend not running a full manual vb on the street unless you have a decent amount of experience with one and without one in a hipo situation. You really need to know when and how to shift to avoid excessive wear and tear when street driving a manual vb.

That said, PATC(raptor trans) has one, TCI(not my first choice in any other part, but they vb seem ok) and Art Carr now has a manual vb with a trans brake available for a 700r. - A 700r is like a T350 in that rev uses low gear, thus internal mods would be required to make partial 1st and rev, which is what a t-brake does.

 

Dont really need trans brake but I like being in control of the trans. Everytime I drive an auto I am always manualy shifting it (not using the gears to slow me down) I have owned a manual valve body TH350 and wont have anything but manual VB now. Not that its a big big deal but if its out (witch is seems to be) there im gonan get it.

thanks man!

 

If your slapping that in a stock 700 your wasting your time and money.

If you want, TCI makes a "streetfighter" VB, its auto/manual. in manual you can hold the gears as long as you want, but in auto it shifts normal, Thats the one im putting in my 350

 

Not to hijack the thread, but I've wondered about that - what do you need to do differently with a manual vb?

 

up shift and down shift points vary for engine speed, engine load, and vehicle speed. Constant high reving at partial throttle, under reving in to high of a gear....many things can cause extra wear. Another thing is that with a manual vb, you no longer have a TV system, thus the trans stays at full pressure all the time. Good for clutch packs, hard on planetaries during shifts.

 

whatbout the auto/maunal VB's?
I wouldnt mind if I could shift into O/D and it be full auto. I just would like to still have full control in 1 2 3. I dont wanna put it in 3rd and then it shift itself down to 2nd if it needed.

 

my car must have a manual/auto. i can controle 1 2 3 when i want. i can downshift but not upshift. thats jsut a stock vb or is that m/a?

 

sounds stock to me, you can down shift yourself but say you put in it in 3 or 2 its still gonan start in 1st.

 

how do you use a partial manual/auto one? if its in D or OD its a regular auto but you can manually contorl 1 and 2? id like to get one to but because we get snow up here and id like to be able to start off in second gear

 

A full manual valve body requires you to shift into first when starting then to second and so on and shift back down from third (or fourth) to first EVERY time you move their is NO automatic shifting if you put it in second it stays in second if you put it in third it stays in third and if you forget to shift back out of third you burn it up when you start out in third ... thats why i said they are fun for about the first five miles and then it just gets to be work ... a manual / auto VB will let it shift from first to high but when you manually put it in first it will hold that gear as long as you want or until you shift it by hand (it takes the override thats built into every trans and defeats it) so it's easier to overrev if you aren't watching... if you have to get a valve body get the manual/auto one they are more forgiving ...

 

ill probly just go with that then. thanks

 

what if i were to manually put it in second would i start off in second then? i have B&M one coming in the mail.

 

Thats where you kill the trans. If it would normally downshift at the amount of throttle you're giving it and you don't downshift, you're burning clutch packs.

 

Yes whatever gear you have the trans in is the gear you are in and like said you can very easily burn the trans clutches and bands by not down shifting to first every time, this IS NOT like a factory trans set up that you can start in second gear in snow (why would you even want to drive in snow) the manual valve bodys are designed for one thing... racing use, not really for the street like I said it gets to be a pain to shift all the time ...The way i have allways been told to shift the manual VB is smack the gears all the way through the quarter mile pull the chute and cost to a stop in neutral then when stopped down shift back into first and drive to the pits at pit road speed (5 MPH)... I would assume the same would be required for street use (coming to a full stop anyway) before downshifting as the trans will shift instantly up or down and down shifting while going too fast will tear up the bands and clutches .. it's your choice but just remember how the thing works or you will be rebuilding it soon and often...

 

Never driven a reverse manual, huh? You get to leave it in high gear until you slow. Under power down shifting is ok, as a 700 has "overrun" clutches that help for this use. The thing that take s beating during up or downshifts with a manual vb is the planetaries. With a manual vb the trans line pressure is at full all the time, thus instantly engauges the clutch packs every gear change, thus pounding the planetaries every gear change. Low gear planet is easy enough to break in a regular mild street application. The 5-pinion does wonders, but one way or the other, manual vb's were not designed to be run on the street.

 

well I have just never had a automatic car and dont want one. i just love 3rd gen Fbodys and cant afford a T56 swap and dont want a crappy T5/305 combo.

 

Just my opinnion, but you probably would be allright with just a good shift kit you could manual shift it without hurting it (upshifts only) and leave it in drive when you don't feel like shifting it manually plus it would be alot less cost and hassle than a manual VB... and shagwell yes i have driven a reverse manual VB in a friends comp dragster(TH-400) but we have found that they live longer when shifted to neutral after a run with the engine off (not actually necessary but just the way we did it) ...

 

Even with the motor off, I'd be leary of going back past low gear until I had slowed down. - I guess my biggest thing is that I'm used to not shutting the motor down until on the return road, even with the blower motor. I like to know she's sitting calmly and straight before I shut the candles out.

 

Geezz I just re read my own post ... I screwed up we did the coast down in high (diden't shift until stopped) DUH...that would make more sense you definatly would not want to go back through on a rev VB to get to neutral while you are moving LOL... sometimes I don't think things out when I type! or proof read too well ...

 

Trans-Go has the 700-2-3 Performance Shift kit, which I modify and use in all of my Street/Strip, Pro Street setups, but in "full automatic" mode only. The kit has the option of a "full manual" forward pattern if you desire. Having built several hundred of these units, I have not built a "full manual" setup. I build these units to last, and a "full manual" setup is not one of my preferences. I see too many downsides on these. If you decide on the "full manual" setup, go with the forward pattern only from Trans-Go.