Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Prince George, BC, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
To replace the clutch on your car it wouldn't be to bad at all maybe a few hours of work, the T-5 is such a light tranny which makes things so much easier. If you don't have the tools though probably better take it to a shop plus your going to have to get the flywheel machined anyways. Just make sure they don't rip you off to much.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
JamesC
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
Shouldn't be too bad.
Buy the full clutch kit. Remember to have another car there, since you'll have to drive your old flywheel over to a shop to get it machined (that's probably the bulk of the reason why it shudders...). Might need to replace it if it's really gone bad.
I'd want friends over to help, the tranny is still pretty heavy...
Put it up as high in the air as you can, that's my point of advice....
I'd also recommend buying a poly tranny mount while you're there. Chances are good yours is shot, and it's a $20 part....
Your clutch kit should come with a throw out bearing... right?
Buy the full clutch kit. Remember to have another car there, since you'll have to drive your old flywheel over to a shop to get it machined (that's probably the bulk of the reason why it shudders...). Might need to replace it if it's really gone bad.
I'd want friends over to help, the tranny is still pretty heavy...
Put it up as high in the air as you can, that's my point of advice....
I'd also recommend buying a poly tranny mount while you're there. Chances are good yours is shot, and it's a $20 part....
Your clutch kit should come with a throw out bearing... right?
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
And remember a new pilot bearing.
JamesC
JamesC
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
Air tools are great (and a must have for an old fart like me), but you can complete the job with hand tools.
JamesC
JamesC
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Posts: 690
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From: NY
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3:73s!
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
its not that bad, Your list seems pretty complete. The hardest part is going to be the pilot bearing, you might need a slide hammer to get that out. Ill give you a rundown how to yoke the trans.
1) take the console apart to remove the shifter.
2)Jack the car up and support it, then remove the driveshaft and I normally just take out the nut that holds the torque are clamshell mount togather.
3) Disconnect the speedocable or speed sensor, and reverse light switch, disconnect the slave cylinder. Youll save time by just unbolting it and letting it lay there, dont disconnect the line because youll have to bleed it later.
4) put a jack under the tailhousing, and take off the crossmember.
5) Lower the tranny until those top 2 bellhousing bolts get to be in sight. I normally use a 18inch extenstion. Before you do that, I normally take a rachet strap and wrap it around the tranny and jack just to stabilize it. Then it should come right out.
Look up a picture on how to replace the throw out bearing, I dont think its that hard, but I guess alot of people screw it up.
If it seems to hard, it only pays 5.5 hours according to alldata, so you know if your getting raped at a shop.
Your going to want to buy a torque wrench. The only bolts you really need to torque are the flywheel to crankshaft, and the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
1) take the console apart to remove the shifter.
2)Jack the car up and support it, then remove the driveshaft and I normally just take out the nut that holds the torque are clamshell mount togather.
3) Disconnect the speedocable or speed sensor, and reverse light switch, disconnect the slave cylinder. Youll save time by just unbolting it and letting it lay there, dont disconnect the line because youll have to bleed it later.
4) put a jack under the tailhousing, and take off the crossmember.
5) Lower the tranny until those top 2 bellhousing bolts get to be in sight. I normally use a 18inch extenstion. Before you do that, I normally take a rachet strap and wrap it around the tranny and jack just to stabilize it. Then it should come right out.
Look up a picture on how to replace the throw out bearing, I dont think its that hard, but I guess alot of people screw it up.
If it seems to hard, it only pays 5.5 hours according to alldata, so you know if your getting raped at a shop.
Your going to want to buy a torque wrench. The only bolts you really need to torque are the flywheel to crankshaft, and the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Should i replace my clutch myself or...?
JamesC
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