Diff Pinion Oil Seal Replacement?
#1
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Diff Pinion Oil Seal Replacement?
Hi,
can anyone help me with some advice on how to change the diff pinion oil seal on an 86 Iroc with a 305 and 5sp man??
Thanks in advance.
Jono.
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86 IROC-Z
305 4bbl 5sp manual
Right Hand Drive
can anyone help me with some advice on how to change the diff pinion oil seal on an 86 Iroc with a 305 and 5sp man??
Thanks in advance.
Jono.
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86 IROC-Z
305 4bbl 5sp manual
Right Hand Drive
#2
TGO Supporter
remove drive shaft, scribe mark on pinion nut to pinion, or any thing you can use for referance, remove nut, remove seal, reverse order for assembly. match up the referance marks on the nut. you might want to drain the rear end while you're at it and add new lube and additive, if posi.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
#3
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
I am replacing my rear pinon seal also.
Is the pre-load refering to the amount of torgue placed on the rear 1.25" pinion bolt? What is the factory spec for this? I realize I will have to increase it to compensate for wear.
Will I need a puller to remove the yoke?
Thanks for your help.
BILL
Is the pre-load refering to the amount of torgue placed on the rear 1.25" pinion bolt? What is the factory spec for this? I realize I will have to increase it to compensate for wear.
Will I need a puller to remove the yoke?
Thanks for your help.
BILL
#4
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
The pre load is the amount of torque (~5-10 inlbs for used bearings) required to rotate the pinion. Unfortunately, you must have the ring gear out to do this.
Miles
Miles
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
So if I take the carrier out do I just tighten the yoke bolt until it takes 5-10 lbs of torgue to rotate the pinion?
In other words, I should not be conserned with the torgue on the 1.25" yoke nut.
Thanks for your advice.
In other words, I should not be conserned with the torgue on the 1.25" yoke nut.
Thanks for your advice.
#6
Saw this thread while search, but to answer the very last question, remember it is INCH lbs, not ft lbs...
The assumption is.. if you mark the pinion nut prior to removal (the previous installer had the correct inch lbs measurement) so, we'll just put it back in the same exact spot...
Some ppl also use micrometer calipers to measure the exact depth...
But remember, inch lbs....
The assumption is.. if you mark the pinion nut prior to removal (the previous installer had the correct inch lbs measurement) so, we'll just put it back in the same exact spot...
Some ppl also use micrometer calipers to measure the exact depth...
But remember, inch lbs....
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
While the yoke is out inspect the seal surface for damage. If the surface is damaged buy a new yoke. Putting a damaged yoke back in with a new seal will cause a leak again in a matter of a few miles.
Marking the nut and the housing is a good idea, but the wheels can't be allowed to move, or you will lose the relevance of your reference mark, and you need to count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut. I've done this several times and never had pinion bearing problems.
Bearing pre-load is ALWAYS in lbs/inches. Using lbs/ft would destroy the bearings in a few minutes of use.
Marking the nut and the housing is a good idea, but the wheels can't be allowed to move, or you will lose the relevance of your reference mark, and you need to count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut. I've done this several times and never had pinion bearing problems.
Bearing pre-load is ALWAYS in lbs/inches. Using lbs/ft would destroy the bearings in a few minutes of use.
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