I am about to finish up the motor swap that has been going on for ages now. I have the converter pushed into the 700R4 as far as it will go, but this leaves me with a huge gap(I would estimate at around 3/16") between the flexplate and the converter ears. Previously there had been washers between there. I've had the tranny in and out a few times, but used one washer instead of the two with the old block.

There are very few threads going into the converter if I use 2 washers between the flexplate and the converter ears as it is now. I cannot see the end of the bolts coming through.
Should I:
1) Drop the trans and shim the flexplate out from the crank to make up for the gap?
2) Put washers between the flexplate and the converter and look for longer bolts so I can run into a sheer factor with new ones?
3) Pull the converter forwards enough to run the 1 layer or no washers between the flexplate and converter? I know this would cause issues with pump drive as well as less spline engagement inside the converter.

 

Sounds like you have a converter designed for a mid plate. I'd recommend getting a proper converter.

You may be able to find flexplate shims but that also requires longer flexplate bolts.

 

I think you misunderstood. The bellhousing mates up fine to the block. But the converter itself is to short between the transmission and the flexplate. If I push the converter into the transmission as far as it will go, it will be too far away from the flexplate for the bolts to reach. A mid plate would make the problem worse.
I'm thinking that for right now I'm going to check the gap, look for some longer bolts with adequate strength grade 8 or better and use the washer idea again until I have the time and money for the converter. Being a new motor, I wont be getting on it for the first 500-1000 miles so that should buy me quite a bit of time to decide on a converter and then shim the flexplate out if there is still an issue. I just need enough to drive the car and do some basic tuning.

 

Flexplate on backwards?

 

I don't think so. I have the three slightly raised areas where the bolts go facing the converter. I'm hoping this weekend to take a good look at it and maybe snap a few pictures to help explain or solve the issue.

 

If I'm understanding the information right...this is normal, the converter is not supposed to bottom out against the pump. The space is for freeplay, just like the endplay of a crankshaft...only a little more. You should be able to identify the correct facing of the plate by the rub spots where the converter previously bolted on, square marks against the TC and round marks where the bolts went through.Pull the converter up to the flexplate and bolt it up, no washers.

 

But 3/16" of a gap may be too much. It's usually around 1/16" of end play.

You can't really put in washers to compensate for the gap. The center of the converter needs to be in the center of the crankshaft/flexplate also.

As mentioned above, slide it up to the flexplate and bolt it on.

 

Do not guess here, measure it. If it is .187", then put in a .075" washer at all three corners. The three washers must be identical in thickness in whatever shims you use. The clearance you want to wind up with is .080" -.125". Dana

 

So with the converter bottomed out in the pump to the flexplate, my gap should be right around .125". I want to say that it is more because I'm pretty sure I could get 3 .5" washers in there which would give me a gap of around .25". I'm going to start by looking for some new bolts with the proper grade. Hopefully they will be a bit longer. Then space with washers accordingly for the .125" 'endplay'.

Thanks for the info. I'll try to do what I can while maintaining these tolerances and staying on the safe side.

 

Sorry for the huge gap in posting. Buying a house takes up a lot of time.
Here's the deal. With the washers out, and the converter pushed all the way into the pump, I am getting about .300" gap between the coonverter and flex plate.

If I use 2 washers, that takes up about .150" which leaves me closer to the .125" clearance before pulling the converter up to meet the flex plate.


I cannot shim the flex plate out towards the converter due to usses then with the starter. It is about as close to the end of engagement that I would like to go. I've already had to deal with the starter eatting the teeth off the flex plate from the previous owner.

As it is, the bolts have about .500" of threads, I forgot to write down my measurements, but this leaves very little thread engagement into the converter. Maybe only .250". If I could find some bolts that have .750" of threads I would be money.

Thanks for the help.
I might try finding out what threads the bolts are for clutches. I know they are longer. I might end up buying a set of those and cutting them down enough to work. I don't like cobbling things like this together, but it's sounding like there is an issue with the converter not being right somehow. No other way to explain where this extra clearance came from.

 

I have run into the same problem with my car. The gap was significant but not enough to leak or change engagement. The car is sluggish with the new engine that makes twice the power leading me to believe that the increased gap has pulled the stator from the turbine.

I am going to try the washers for now but this engine begs for a stall converter anyways. I'll tell ya how it goes.

 

make sure the new bolts aren't too long. if they touch past the pad and dimple the converter the lockup clutch inside will be damaged as it is just under the surface in that area.
to techno if the stator wasn't engaged the vehicle doesn't move. or if the stator is stripped it won't move either. the stator is stationary-part of the pump. your weakness comes from the dark side-the engine.
bird-that pic looks typical of the gap. remember it is a flex plate. shim it evenly but not too much or flex will bottom the converter hub into the pump gear and poof!

 

hey.i.have.the.same.problem..i.put.2.washers.and.used.a.lil.bit.longer.bolts.just.enough.to.
tighten.it.good..and..i.also.changed.the.seal.on.the.trans.and.i.got.a.leak!....its.coming.from.
the.TC.but.i.dont.know.why..or.how??..did.i.do.something.wrong/?

 

Well, I got it all taken care of. I'll have to snap a few pictures and the specs on what I did. Here's a brief rundown...

Pushed the converter all the way into the pump. Measured distance between converter flanges and flexplate. Subtracted something like .1 for freeplay and turned some shaft on a lathe to make my own washers/spacers at the correct thickness.
Got some Metric bolts with the same thread... not sure what it is, I can check on that as well. From what research I could do about fastener grades in Metric these are up there in the hardness that the factory converter bolts are and cut them down to length also.

 

so.did.u.get.any.leaks.man???..do.u.know.why.mines.is.leaking..i.also.used.washers.and.a.brand.new.seal

 

I havn't had a chance to drive it yet. I'm waiting for it to warm up so I can break in the new engine. There might be a nice big leak when I go to start up again.

 

i.took.it.to.the.shop.n.the.big.seal.inside.is.damaged...so.thats.gettin.fixed..

 

Sounds like you have it solved....... Good work.