I wanted to try out this lockup in 2nd and 3rd so I bridged the upper left and right most connections on the diagnostic connector and turn the ignition on..... guage fuse blew. I re-read the tech aritcle and these are the right pins to connect. Whats the deal?

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

Were you having a problem with L/U in the first place? If so perhaps this is because of that? What exact year and model did you do this on?

 

This is on an 89 RS. I wanted to put a switch in so I could lock up when crusing at like 25 or 30, which is most of the time. Also I'd like to use it to shave a tenth at the strip. I dont think the lockup occurs normally either, so then yes I guess it does have a problem. Even if a relay or something is bad though, why would bridging these two terminals (as its says in the tech article) cause my guage fuse to blow? Thanks boyz

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

if your lockup is not functioning your transmission will burn up after all that abuse. word of advice, GET IT FIXED unless you want to pay for twice as many replacement parts.

[This message has been edited by @ZZKKER (edited November 17, 2001).]

 

Anyone else wanna take a stab at it? I just want to know how to properly make the LU switch and why my guage fuses blew. Obviously if I find something that will wear out the tranny then the T-5 is taking its place.. hehe..

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

I am having a similar problem and have basically narrowed it down to a bad lockup solenoid.
A shop did some work on my car last spring that included removing my computer harness (which I didn't want done, but that's another story) and installing a vacuum controlled switch that would disengage the tcc when under low vacuum. Problem is that ever since they did the work the tcc has never locked up (was working normally before) and I have always ended up with a blown wiper fuse (where they tapped into for power). Last month I dropped my tranny pan to check their wiring (they had supposedly installed a harness) and everything looked okay. I did rewire it to eliminate the 3rd-4th gear switch and the vacuum switch as I wanted total control from a panel mounted toggle switch. But like I said, everything else looked okay. I didn't think to try to test the solenoid directly (as was suggested in another post).
Anyway, I still don't have lockup and the fuse still blows (30 amp fuse at that). That is telling me that the solenoid is bad. It might be something for you to check as well.
Good luck.

 

Where exactly is this solenoid you speak of....easy to get to possibly?? riiiiiight

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

For it to blow it indicates a short. I would suggest OHM's checking the solenoid between the A and D terminals. It should be between 20-30 OHM's. If it is zero or very low, that is your problem.

 

If, after testing the resistance and checking all external wiring, you end up drawing the conclusion that the solenoid is bad, you will, unfortunately, have to drop the tranny pan to get at it. In other words, not easy to get at. Well, actually it is relatively easy to get at, once the pan is removed, but removing the pan is the messy part. I would highly recommend buying a drain plug kit ($5-$10) to facilitate future fluid/filter changes.
Anyway, after the pan is off, you may or may not have to remove the filter to get at the solenoid. It is located at the front passenger-side corner of the tranny. It's pretty obvious as it is the only thing that has wires running to it. I guess the ground wire does run through the 3rd-4th gear switch before heading back to the external connector but that is definitely obstructed by the filter.
Hope that helps explain its location.
Good Luck.

[This message has been edited by Lonster (edited November 19, 2001).]