CHRISMAN2000

iTrader: (1)

Ok gang.
So as long as I’ve owned my camaro it’s had it’s 4 speed. Fun transmission. Decent on the track. However that was in stock form.
Currently the engine which has been completely modified is going in.
My question to all experienced racers is this.
Should I rebuild the 700r4 knowing that I most likely will not being doing any highway miles at al.
Or go for a 350 trans. Build it for Strip and Street.
My current 700rR hasn’t trans go shift kit, Corvette servo and mega shifter.

What’s everyone’s thoughts? Have you guys gotten better quarter mile times with a th350?
Cheers

MSgt Luttrell

I went with a Level 3 Raptor 700r4 with a nonlock out 2600 stall converter from PATC and couldn't be happier with it so far. I'm running 3.73 gears and love how well the car launches with the low first gear of the 700r4

CHRISMAN2000

iTrader: (1)

Sweet. Just wondering if I’ll get better et’s with a 350.
That being said I may just do a rebuild with updated parts.

Jacobaxeman

Just sayin the street strip stuff doesn't really work, cause what holds on the street, is sometimes glass on a prepped track.

change your gears in the rear that'll make the biggest difference.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

With street-friendly gearing and torque converter, the 700R4 will be quicker.
With radical gearing and TC, the TH350 will be just slightly quicker.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I do not necessarily agree with this! That massive split between 1st and 2nd hurts the 700r4s ETs. The Hotcammed TPI 350 car I set up with a TH400, 2,800 rpm converter and 2.73s runs really strong and drives very nicely on the street as well. On drag radials the car ran 7.80s in the 1/8 on a 1.7-1.8s 60'. To say it leaves hard for a highway gear is an understatement. On street tires anything more than about 1/2 throttle from a stop or slow roll is absolutely pointless. The car has more in it but the engine literally has a stock TPI base, runners and plenum on it.

MSgt Luttrell

Well that depends on the engine as well, the 700r4s split between 1st and 2nd isn't very noticeable with the broad torque band of well built 383. Shifting at 6500 rpms my rpms will drop down to 4000 rpms shifting from first to 2nd. My engine is making 450 ftlbs of torque at that rpm and there is no bog what so ever between 1st and second.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Did you opt for the close gear ratio set from PATC though? Tremendous difference.

To the OP, just split the difference and get a 200-4R and keep your overdrive...

- Rob

MSgt Luttrell

That's a good question, it may have the close gear ratio set in it; I told them what I wanted the transmission and torque converter for and gave them the car weight and the engine dyno sheet. I paid for a level 3 Raptor 700r4 and a non lock out 2600 converter; it may very well have the close gear set in it.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Well of course you would disagree with this, the all-knowing Mr. Counterpoint.
7.80's and 1.7-1.8 60's, and you're giving advice to someone wanting to set up a car for the strip?? ...hello?? Stick to what you know and don't disgrace yourself as miserably as you've done on other forums.

CHRISMAN2000

iTrader: (1)

I didn’t realize you could order the level 3raptor with a different gearing set.
Now that basically kills two birds with one stone.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

700r4 is the perfect street transmission period. You can build it or have it built as strong as you want. I would go TH350 only if it was a track-only car.

wannalaunch

Here's some experience-based opinion;
The 700R-4 can be had with 2.84/1.55 ratios from Ford's 4R70W, but at that point it's less coin to do a 200-4R. The re-geared 700 is a direct bolt-in, but if you have so much power that you want the taller first gear, then you're probably ready for a 4L80E anyway, for which you can get 3.00/1,57 or 2.75/1.57 gearing, for an extra grand.
With an automatic, tall gearing and wide gear splits aren't problematic if you custom order a torque converter from a competent builder.
Overdrive is great for interstate cruising, noone should argue it. But what about just in town, at 40 MPH? Sure, you and your engine can live with 3.73s and no OD, especially for just 10-20 minutes at a time, but even then you could use the OD if you have it. It takes a really insane build to not take any OD.
Last spring I drove an '85-ish Monte fake-SS with a 350, a 200C, and a 2.56:1 rear. That 2.56 was about what it would have with a 3.73 and an OD, it cruised fine with no surging. It had 200 cc aluminum heads and a Comp Thumper cam, neither of which seem OD-friendly. That's why we try it and see.
The 350 can be a great bracket transmission, and it can be built to run 9s, but at that point the TH400 is stronger for less money.
I don't enjoy putting gas in my cars, I enjoy driving them, so I see an OD as 25% more fun for the same money. For me, the debate isn't OD or not, the debate is which OD.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

^^ well said ^^

Pro Built Automatics

What year 700R4 are you wanting to build? The better ones to start with are the late 1987 - 1993. The 2.84 gear set, unless given to you is a waste of money. The money should be spent on a good 9.5" lockup torque converter, and you get better results as compared to changing gear ratios in the transmission. This will hide the big rpm drop on the 1-2 shift. Stall will be determined by what the camshaft duration is at .050" lift, lobe separation, type of heads, compression ratio, cfm of carburetor, type of intake manifold, cubic inch of motor, rear end gear ratio, and how you drive. Depending on what tires (diameter), motor modifications, weight of vehicle will determine what gear ratio should be in the rear end to get the results you want here. What horsepower are you planning to get at the flywheel? TH350's and TH400's are getting hard to get at a reasonable price, and you won't save that much over building the 700R4. If I can be of help with what you need/want, let me know.

wannalaunch

Thanks!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

getting the 700R4 to hold up to power.. is easy.it takes money for the better parts...
don't go cheap..buy/ get todays hard parts...not the same as parts made 10 years ago..
close ratio gearing with the 6 pinon planet works..I spent over $2600 in just todays hard parts..most sonnax and some GM parts.then every thing cryo treated...if I had it to do it over. I would do A th400 with gear venders over drive. would be cheaper...but hey...its only money... a 700R4 with trans brake.manual valve body and no shift cable needed with close ratio gearing.and a 9" converter....is NOT something you go out and buy for $4000 from a shop..you have to pick out your parts and ask..... Just sayn..

and in the end..you still hope it ya don't brake it....lol

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I've raced with both 700s and th350s. If you are going to do absolutely no daily driving and such a th350 or 400 is a great option. Very cheep to find if you are in the racing crowd, and be built up very easily.

But then again 700s are pretty good as well and can take some abuse as long as you build it up right. It really comes down to do you need overdrive. Will you be driving at 60 70mph on the highway....

I like the 1st gear on the th350 and that its closer to 2nd also I like it's less rotational mass but that on its own isnt a good enough reason swap it imo

When I did the th350 swap about 3 years or so back I may have gained a tenth or so in the 1/4 mile but that was iffy. Swapping trannys on its own isn't going to gain much unless u really had some issues with the previous set up.