I need to install new trans fluid lines in my 85 z28. It's the 700r4. Seems like it is going to be really difficult to get them through everything. Are there any tips or tricks to this? I tried several searches but find no information.

 

 

I adapted a short length (12") of AN line to the transmission fittings and swung those onto the passenger side frame rail. Then along the frame with steel lines towards the rad support. 90 degrees up and 90 across to the aftermarket cooler mounted in front of the rad.
The AN lines at the transmission makes for easier removal as I disconnect the flexible line from the hard line on the frame rail.

 

I would recommend staying away from copper for this. Well and widely known to crack at the fittings from vibration in this application. Works for awhile, but then, a year or 2 or 3 down the road, you find yourself sitting by the side of the road with a burnt-up transmission because all the fluid suddenly leaked out and you didn't notice. (guess how I know this...)

Skinny's approach makes MUCH better long-term sense. Go to the parts store and buy some sticks of 5/16" SAE flare brake line, bend it up with a real tubing bender (NOT by hand... you'll just collapse it) to make up the ends, buy the appropriate 45° / 37° adapter fittings where necessary, hook up with short sections of braided stainless. For that matter you could make the whole thing up out of braided stainless; easier to run, but kinda $$$, although by the time you buy a bender and fittings and all the rest, might come out reasonably competitive.

 

 

Yup; pretty sure. Wasn't my car or my work. None of them. I've seen it probably 3 different times. I think only once did it leave the car parked though, the rest of the times it got noticed before it drained the trans. The flares cracked off of the end of the lines.

Seen it happen on fuel lines under the hood too, same failure mode, where they've broken both at the pump or the carb. That's kinda scary.

 

 

Easy. Stock lines. Install on the engine/trans before installing in the car.

 

About the only thing more risky than copper, would be rubber. Seen more than a couple of transmissions burn up for that, too. And even more that had used it for fuel line.

To me, fluid lines just aren't something to be trifled with... too many ways for things to go wrong.

 

Getting my stock lines out I bent the crap out of them. I don't see how you could install new without doing the same.

Consider making your own braided ss lines, the price is not too much for a length of line, you can route them where you want, fragolo fittings are nice and affordable. Watch a vid or two about cutting the lines and installing the fittings. It will look nice.

Jack the trans, remove the mount, lower the trans to get to those pesky fittings on the side.

 

Buy AN adapters for the trans and radiator and use the premade Teflon lined -6 an lines available anywhere. Simple and done.

 

Copper for capillary lines for gauges and what not is ok since if they fail, you won't die. However, if you are using copper for trans lines and brake lines, you a dangerous hack.
There is a material called cunifer, it's a copper nickle alloy which is as flexible as copper, easy to flare and strong enough for automotive uses and hydraulic pressure. It's also highly corrosion resistant. Many OE auto manufactures are using it now in place of steel lines.

 

 

No, not really; I'm more of a stainless, titanium, Teflon kind of guy. (where it makes a difference, that is) OEM is the stuff that's already failed that I'm replacing. Why would I INSIST on putting that back again? I'd like to find an actual IMPROVEMENT over OEM whenever possible. (where it makes a difference, that is)

"Rubber" in quantities such as trans fluid cooler lines, usually means "fuel line". Which turns to dust and crumbles within 20 or 30 thousand miles at most. Looks and works GREAT right at first; but doesn't last. Now, if you used power steering return hose, or high-pressure hydraulic hose, that would be a different matter. But "rubber" as what it usually refers to... not so much.

Braided stainless over Teflon is about as near permanent and failsafe as you're going to get in flexible line. Difficult for the n00b to work with though, apart from the pre-made ones. The cunifer stuff is awesome; MUCH eeeeeezier to form than standard brake line. Not available down at the corner though. Every alternative has its advantages and drawbacks, including of course cost.

For yer average backyard shadetree kinda guy like me, brake line and power steering return hose is generally adequate, for stuff you can get pretty much on any street corner. Although I GREATLY prefer better flex line than that if I can afford to wait.

 

I have the factory lines, I was more of wondering how I would get them in place.

 

EEeeeeziest way (well, ... least difficult, at least as far as the lines themselves are concerned) is to pull the motor & trans, put the lines on them, and drop them back in.

I suspect if you remove the pass side motor mount, the Y-pipe, and the fuel pump, they'll suck right on up into there though.

 

I mistakenly ordered a 2nd set of Inline Tube pre-bent hard stainless lines.
I'm in Ct, you are in Mass. Maybe we can make something work.

 

damn reading this thread has me worried, just dropped the engine in my car a couple months ago without connecting the lines to the block. is it really that hard to snake the lines in? my transmission is out of the car and currently being rebuilt so hopefully thatll make it easier on me.

 

I was able to finagle mine in by just removing the pass wheel.Starting from the radiator ends.The slid between the eng/x-mem too.I did have to "tweak" one line(upper, i think), but only enough to clear the rad i think.You just need enough room to the side, so the lines can be perpendicular at the start.