Hello, I have a 1992 camaro, was a v6 swaped with a TPI 350 and 700r4 from a 92 camaro, ditched the TPI and went holly demon carb [yeah i know, but i was young n dumb n wanted simplicity]
Here is my problem, the kickdown cable that came with the 700r4 is too long, I push the self adjusting thing in,put it on the little **** on the carb plate, step on peddle, and its still like an inch and a half slack.
It would fall off all the time to the point i left it off. [before people have a stroke, listen] Been like that for a little over a year of on an off driving, furthest being about 5 miles at a time,
I did some research and heard that 700r4s AFTER 88 or 87 really only use the TV cable for passing gear, as in when its fully extend WOT it drops a gear to take off, and in my experience this is true.
I have perfectly smooth shifting, when its off, no hard banging shifts, no super high rpm shifts, its smooth and "normal" I recently added the 4th gear lockup from ecm that i dithered to vacuum and
thats working smooth too. Now, Im trying to get the kickdown cable working as it should be, because as it is now, i dont have passing power. I step on it and its like a dog, no get up, etc.
I try to set the cable, its too lose to even do anything as noted in the first pics.



Now, i decided hey, everyone and their mom is saying how important this junk is, and how it needs to be tight, yada yada. So, i take up the slack, put a 1 inch tube space, and figure
hey if i take up the slack, it will pull that it needs from the self adjusting ratchet gears as its supposed to. Well the 1 inch space took the slack, but but the ratchet didnt move a single click.
I go for a test drive, UBER late shifts, shifts harder then a rock and its bad man, I park, throw that silly cable clip off and it home. Drove nice and smooth no issues. So im at a loss.
Cable too long. when its set right it shifts harder then a mug. Someone convince me that i actually need it or tell me wdf im doing wrong please.







Now, i decided hey, everyone and their mom is saying how important this junk is, and how it needs to be tight, yada yada. So, i take up the slack, put a 1 inch tube space, and figure
hey if i take up the slack, it will pull that it needs from the self adjusting ratchet gears as its supposed to. Well the 1 inch space too the slack, but but the ratchet didnt move a single click.
I go for a test drive, UBER late shifts, shifts harder then a rock and its bad man, I part, throw that silly cable clip off and it drive nice and smooth no issues. So im at a loss.
Cable too long. Shen its set right it shifts harder then a mug. Someone convince me that i actually need it or tell me wdf im doing wrong please.

 

WARNING!!!

That cable is NOT a Detent/ Kick-Down cable!

It is indeed a "Throttle-Valve" cable and must be adjusted properly or the Transmission will Burn-UP!
The transmission can not raise line-pressure properly without the TV cable operating properly.
Your cable might only be slightly out of adjustment... it is hard to see in the photos.

From the photos, it is difficult to see the Adjuster for the cable...
It should be just on the other-side of the cable-bracket, where the cable snaps into the bracket.

Watch this video from approx. the 2:46 minute mark to the 2:58 minute mark to see the Adjuster being moved:

The adjuster has a piston that slides forwards and backwards.
Your adjuster may be stuck or not operating properly, based on the photos.

Watch this video from approx. the 2:20 minute mark to the 2:52 minute mark to see how to adjust the cable.


NOTE: the adjuster button should be released (not pressed-in) before opening the Carb. to full throttle to adjust the cable.
Do NOT do what the video does (by holding the adjuster button pressed-in during the adjustment).

If your cable/ adjuster is not moving or adjusting...
Let us know, as you will need to replace the cable to prevent the transmission from burning-up.

 

Yeah... i know about the adjuster, I pulled it out by hand and then pressed the button and pushed it all the way back in again, because it was still way to long, when the adjuster was as far back twords the fire wall as possible, The mounting bracket came with the holly and it said for 700r4 so i dont think thats wrong. I watched both those videos over the last few days, but nothing has solved my issue, cable too long :/ I can pull the adjuster further out but it only exacerbates my problem,

I really appreciate your reply, do you have any other advice?

 

Advice piece #1:

NEVER EVER AGAIN listen to or read whoever, whatever, wherever, or however you "heard" that. It is WRONG. There is no other word to describe it. NOT TRUE.

That cable, as said, is NOT a "kickdown cable". It is a throttle valve cable. It performs the function that a vacuum modulator used to, specifically, it tells the transmission how much load the engine is under, and what the driver is asking it to do. That cable, and the governor, are the transmissions ONLY 2 EYES that it has for looking at the world around it. It MUST be set right; note that the correct word is SET, not ADJUSTED.

Looks to me like you have a linkage problem, first off. Looks like the stud you have the cable mounted to is too far from the throttle shaft. What this does, is pull out on the cable TOO MUCH as the throttle opens. Meaning, if you get it set right at idle (which will DEFINITELY be at some point where there is no slack), then as you open the throttle, the transmission sees TOO MUCH. You open the throttle 1/8, the transmission sees 1/4; open it 1/4, the trans sees 1/2; open it halfway, the trans sees WOT. In this case, the trans will act MUCH too aggressively at all times, by shifting hard and late, in accordance with the worldview it has, wherein it thinks the throttle is open WAY more than it really is.

You also have a cable bracket problem. The mount for that cable is about 1½" too close to the throttle shaft. What that does is make it impossible to get it set to the correct length.

2nd piece of advice therefore is, get the right linkage and brackets for your carb. I have no idea what those are or where to get them, all I can tell you is, what you have now is NOT IT, no matter what you've "heard" or what the box said or whatever else. I suggest you contact these guys http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/index.php, should be a great place to start anyway. They used to have a really good tutorial on how the 700 system works and a listing of all the carb setups they offer linkage & brackets for, but now their web site is fornicated somehow and sends you off into spam and scareware la-la land whenever you click on any of the links having to do with it. DO NOT follow them!!! Call or e-mail them vis the "contact us" link instead.

 

It may be worth noting that there are different length cables. TPIs and carbs are not interchangeable.

 

Further to the post above.

 

This is also true. I forgot to mention that.

Of course if you're starting out with a 6-cyl cable, that may be different yet again. I have not a clue. I've never even SEEN a 6-cyl in one of these cars; the few times I've been close to one to potentially see it, I've averted my eyes in shame. Since that's what you started out with it might be in some outer ozone layer somewhere, compared to what it needs to be. I have no idea.

So add that to your list of advices.

Advice piece #3: get the right TV cable.

 

From:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...wn-detent.html



I can't verify the accuracy of the descriptions although the varying lengths and the OP's swap may be of some significance.

 

looks like my problem, its a 92 camaro 700r4 that came with a 350 tpi from same car. , so i need a new cable? Thankyou for all the replys
looks like TPIs TVc is longer, such as mine would be from a tpi. i looked at my ratchet adjuster again and it feels very strong, wont ajust unless i hold
the button in, so i let out a few clicks, will go for a little drive and see how it goes. Is there a way to see if its adjusted right? other then
not shifting like a rock?

 

Source the cable and then pay attention to the geometry. The length of stroke, the arc of the cable attachment point relative to the throttle shaft and all the distances play a critical part in getting this to work properly. There's a diagram posted above with the relevant specs.
What carb are you running? Difficult to tell from the pictures. Not a Holley I'd venture to say but there are geometry correctors for most popular carbs. Holley, for example, makes one to address the arc of the cable linkage as well as a carb mounted cable mount that will allow for the specific distances required. I believe Edelbrock has similar parts.
When you putt around slowly and don't engage a lot of revs with the cable disconnected, there's not a lot increased trans pressure needed to keep you going so you can get by. But lay into it with no TV cable hooked up and it'll be a very short time until you lose the forward gears. 1st will shift into nothing. Game over.

 

its a Holley

 

its a Holley Street Demon, ill get holleys lil adapter plate n a new cable i guess

 

I have the Street Demon but in the Barry Grant version.

Here's the carb corrector.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...e/parts/20-121

As installed on my BG carb.





And the cable mount.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ge/parts/20-95



I've used the cable mount above but I've stepped up to the cable mount/return spring anchor piece.



This one is Trick Flow but it looks like the other dozen out there. One manufacturer. A dozen brands.

 

read the Street demon paper, it says the middle hole fits the 700r4 pin, maybe i dont need the plate?

 

Going through my install paperwork, there's no mention of the transmission cable connection. Then again I have the Barry Grant version so it would seem that later models may have that geometry corrector already built in.
I guess at this point you have to ensure you have the correct length of cable and also that the distance from the cable adjuster face to the attachment on the throttle shaft is in spec.

 

Looking at the picture Henjoe Posted and the original photo of it connected in the car, it appears that Henjoe has it connected to the TH 350 "Kick Down" hole, not the 700R4 hole. This would change the arc as the throttle opens.

 

**update**
Made the following changes
put the nubb back in the middle slot, proper for 700r4
pulled the adjuster out manually a few clicks, its hard as a rock and isnt self adjusting easilly
left the 1 inch shortener on
its running better, shifts are a tiny bit late when gunning it but miles better then the 4k clunk shifts it was doing before, actually drivable now for the meen time.
i also ordered a AC delco tv cable, for a 87 camaro, when carbs where still stock, so a new propper cable should do the trick, and reading the paperwork for the carb. Ill update after installing the cable and provide a part number if it works. Thanks again everyone for the info, especially when it came to showing tpi, tbi and other tv cable lengths are infact not the same. Thanks again!

 

Good to see progress. But until you've nailed down the adjustment 100%, don't lean into it. The consequences are expensive.
I have a part number for a cable that I've used, or intended to use but I hesitated to post it as it's been so long that I can't say for certain if it's the right part. Or if that's what I'm using now.
I'd say that with a carbed application cable, you should be zeroing in on the correct setup.
Post up the length differences if you can. It's good for all of us going forward.

 

I have a Mighty Demon and a CSR adjustable throttle bracket and never had any problems and never needed the carb connector for the linkage

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...iABEgL4_PD_BwE

 

​​​​​As I was saying, one manufacturer, a dozen brands. Fair to say the CSR piece and the Trick Flow have the same parents.

 

You need the Holley TV cable adapter. Read the page:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...e/parts/20-121

It is likely there's already damage done to the trans though. Without sufficient line pressure rise from the throttle valve, all the shifts will be mushy and the clutch packs won't get proper pressure to lockup without slipping.

GD

 

It seems that the OP's Holley version of the Demon carb has a corrector built in.



Mine on the other hand, being of the Barry Grant variety didn't have one and I use the Holley 20-121 in your link.
As for damage, yep, it doesn't take long and I've found that the breakdown happens suddenly. One day you're driving and the next day you're parked.

 

How old is your carb? My Might Demon is pushing 13 years old and came with the correct holes

 

Paperwork says 2006. Speed Demon model 1402010VE 750 vacuum secondary.
There are holes available for other transmissions (TH350 I believe) but they're not in the proper location to get the geometry right for the 700. Once the Holley adapter is installed, you can see the obvious offset between the two cable mounting points.


The button head Allen screw goes through the existing hole in the throttle shaft bracket. It is used to mount the geometry corrector and allows for the proper placement of the throttle cable stud.

The OP's version clearly has holes in the right place as his instructions point it out (Even though he's mounted in the TH350 position).
I guess your Mighty Demon is similar to his.

 

Update,

got the AC delco cable for 87 carbed v8 camaro installed, looked and felt alot more right then the other one, was not slacked at idle, and ease of motion,
went for a drive, shifts kinda hard out of 1st, and about 60% as hard out of 2nd into third, after that its smooth,
Car cruses alot smoother and feels like it has more throttle response, but the had shifting from 1st to 2nd and the not so smooth shift from 2nd to 3rd has me worryed,
should i pull the cable out a click or 2? I know its "self adjusting" but im pretty sure its more of a ballpark kind of thing.

thanks for the replys

 

The adjuster, when all parts are new, is foolproof in it's operation. That is to say, set it and forget it.
That said, at one time with one of my modified 700's, setting the TV cable the conventional way made automatic shifting almost impossible. Shifts were very late or not at all and it was only by slacking off of the ratchet adjuster by a notch or two was I able to bring the shifts into spec.
I was concerned that this might cause problems however, in my discussions with Dana at Pro Built Automatics (board member) , we surmised that because I had done the basic upgrades to the transmission, (.500" boost valve, TransGo shift kit, Corvette servo, and a few others) that the line pressure was sufficient to prevent a failure. This didn't address the basic problem of having to "mis-adjust" the cable and this was probably due to a mismatch in the upgrades I did. That transmission went tens of thousands of miles.
As for your situation, if a stock transmission, I wouldn't make that move without verifying line pressure. If you've never done it, it's very easy and will give you peace of mind regarding the cable adjustment.
​​​​​

 

How do you verify the line pressure? I have had to replace my cable and when we did the auto adjust I had the same issue as the OP. Very hard shifts from 1st to second. I did back it off a click and it shifts great. But now you guys got me worried I should not have done that.

 

There is a fitting on the drivers side above the shift linkage. I used a 300 PSI gauge and went about the procedure in the ATSG manual. I don't recall what the fitting size is although it isn't anything unusual.
This link may prove helpful. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/www....d.php?t=640467

 

This is great info. As iv been using the longer cable for over a year now, and when its a little more extended, i have less hard shifting i think its close to your description. The guy who had this camaro power train before me had built it a little from what i can tell, so im tempted to pull it out a click or 2 n see if it gets easier. If it shifts better, and still had some movment to WOT ima call it a day. I know we shouldn't view our trannys as replaceable but worst case i can get an upgrade, lmao


If the cables on n moving right, and shifts are good, fluid is nice n pink, i think it will be ok. Ill update after a few clicks

 

When my 1987 IROC clone had a Gen I Small-Block Chevrolet engine with a 4BBL and THM700-R4:

I also used a Mighty-Demon Carburetor and a similar configuration to some of the photos recently posted.
The first 4 photos are of my car, back when I had a Gen I 408" Vortec engine.
I have to say... fitting a 4.0" stroke crank in a Gen I cylinder-block was a HUGE pain in the ***, compared to a Gen III/ IV engine.














I had a throttle-cable and TV-cable bracket very similar to the image below:




Also the Mighty-Demon Carb. that I was using; also had a stud location for the THM700-R4 TV-cable linkage.
Just like in the image below:




The Transmission linkage and the Carb. linkage both operated perfectly set up this way.
I also experimented with the linkage adapter for the THM700-R4 TV-cable... but It made no difference.
Shown below:




These brackets were primarily intended for AFB style Carter/ Edelbrock Carburetors (but obviously work with a 4150 style Carb.)
So in my case; I used the stud-location on the Mighty-Demon Carb. alone... and It worked perfectly.