Ok well for the last 2 day's now i have been checking the codes on my car. the only 2 codes are 35,53 now we also reseat the computer in the car the day before this. But that night we re-set it we put 150miles on it and it ran nice. Now it's reading 35,53 and every now and then it will cut in and out and if i take my foot off the gas while it is doing this it dies, even on the interstate. Well if u have anny suggestions please let me know i'm trying to get it working again with out taking it to a shop and spending 400$+.





P.S. im purity sure that all the grammar is correct and for who ever that was that asked my name is Brian and i go to THS or Tomah High School for the shop that i'm using it's a high school class our teacher use to work on the shelby cobras on a race team i think he's cool anny who I'm 17 for who ever asked

 

code 35 is a code for the IAC

there is no such code as 53, i'll bet your reading code 35 backwards..................

pull out your IAC and clean it with brake clean

the IAC is a stepper motor which controls your idle

if cleaning it does not help, it will probably have to be replaced

might as well do a full tune up while you are at it.........

 

Much MUCH better. Not perfect, but good enough.

Like I said, I am just trying to help you get more answers.

 

Better much better
Do you have access to a mechanical pressure gauge? On your fuel rail under the plenum, there should be a shrader valve that you can hook up the mechanical gauge to. Test the pressure that you get, should be around 40 psi. How you said on the interstate the car would cut out and die if you didnt give it more gas gives me the impression that the fuel system could be at fault here. Check you fuel filter too, there could be a restriction of debrits in it cutting off fuel. If you're as lucky as I was the previous owners never replaced the filter. I'll attach a pic of where its located.

 

thanks, for the code 53 in the book there was one i cant rember what it was but i dono if that's for the first or the seckond coumputer for the cars

 

85SportCoupeto89RS: Where did you get that picture from? That kind of reminds me of when I went to Hendrick Motorsports in Charlotte. They did not have a Camaro there, but they did have a ZR1 Corvette that they claimed was the first one built.

 

For years '90-'92 code 53 is high battery voltage. I'd tackle that before hte IAC code. Recent thread on the cause of an IAC code also.

RBob.

 

Could you email that side pic to me?
That helps with many details I seek to see, without getting under car!
PS I see OFTEN that angle of a car, but with more fan fare and a police escort to boot!
That ZR1 claim,
What year are they claiming the car to be?
I recall soemone having #1 ZR1 from early 90s, read about in Corvette Fever

 

The real pic is in the appearance and detailing board somewhere but heres the unmolested pic.

 

my bad, guess there is a code 53 then, sounds like your voltage regulator (not definetly, but probable)

check your alternator's output, the voltage regulator is prolly shot, its internal to the alt, so either rebuild the alt, or buy anew

 

Well, you can't be so sure about that. Has Cammy yet revealed the year of his car?

RBob.

 

carbureted modles

EGR control

Leaking, restricted or improperly routed vacuum line; EGR valve stuck or leaking; poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit; defective EGR solenoid; defective ECM


fuel injected models

System over voltage ( stated above )

 

if i'm not mistaken GM's after 1973 had internal voltage regulators.......................i know his car has a 3.1, so its a 90-92

 

OK, hadn't seen that. The code 53 can cause the code 35 as on an overvoltage condition the ECM will shutdown the IAC driver to prevent damage to the IAC and/or driver.

RBob.

 

Can't purchase rebuild kits for our alternators.
Tried myself.
Make sure ya get the proper amperage (105 or lower, if no AC on car).
My Alt. overcharging caused me to fry ICM's like no tomorrow.
I am replacing my MAS on Tuesday. I get it for free, so I experiment at no cost.
Right now I throw out code 34's so away MAS goes.
I seriously believe the overcharging alternator caused the MAS to go bad.
The SES light comes on at driving speeds & with idling conditions, after a bit.
AND YESTERDAY, boy did I smell gas fumes outta my exhaust pipe. The SES light, at that moment was active, showing the car in override problem/sensor condition.
Wish my car showed a code 53, would have replaced alternator alot earlier!!!!

 

Actually you can rebuild them. Their are kits by IceBerg(?)that also have a new back half (housing part). I used one for mine when the diodes blew out (heard them go over the sound of the stereo!). Summit carries the kit and possibly Jegs. A little more involved then the regular old SI units, but it can be done.

RBob.

 

I couldn't score rebuilding stuff.
Good thing, as I needed another alternator & low & behold, bada bing-bada boom, thank you parts man, free exchange.
In my case this worked out well.
I paid like $110, but... worked well for this last overcharging problem.
Was done with swap by side of road in a couple of hours (transportation of Wife & Son in 1974 was fun!)

 

Oh yes, a bolt in is a good bet, no doubt about it. That and the Miss's gets her car back quicker. And I _know_ how important that is . (a free exchange?).

To rebuild the CS units takes some time. As you mentioned earlier they aren't really (designed to be) rebuildable. So in order to do so wires need to be cut, then fitted/crimped/soldered back together. There are plastic shields that need to be removed w/o destroying them and all kinds of stuff. Oh yea, the front bearing is staked in, so that needs grinding and then a bearing retainer is used. Wow, I am glad it hasn't required it again.

If a 12SI fit I'd bolt one in in a heartbeat.

RBob.

 

I've rebuilt a 12SI so quick I was stunned!
Except front bearing which was OK anyway!

My statement free exchange
I purchased an AUTOLITE rebuilt (rebuilder) alternator that has a lifetime warranty.
I had the chance to use that warranty detail other day, was what I should have been more through in my reply.
I was very thankful for that warranty, too.
Tuesday I try another MAS (same scenerio-warranty exchange) to remove SES light from appearing again (up pops code 34).
I believe the bad alternator threw the MAS into a tizzy, YET this code 34 only appeared after I replaced this current alternator. With previous alternator, not a code thrown for the MAS at all. Oh well.
BUT HEY, no fried ICMS lately!
Fine trade, I experiment for free (warranty) as I already paid the piper.
This time I plan on removing battery ground cable then hook up MAS, rehook up battery cable, then fire up car. Why not as it can't hurt!