Ok...since no one replied to the post for ideas.....
I'm looking for the best breathing cam i can find for my 3.4. Preferably one that will allow me to use the stock springs (max .440 lift). I'd like power to be made up high rather than low (plenty of torque down there, don't need more). I have the facilities to improve the flow of my intake (next after the cam). I just found me a 2.8 TB (evil laugh), dual plenum time. I will be spraying the motor as well, no more than 80hp, so keep that in mind. Heads are stock. PLEASE reply if you know of a good one. Thanks.

 

Heads stock?

P&P them, first. Same on the intake, and the exhaust. Believe it or not, but the stock cam is held back, as it is!

As far as an aftermarket cam, I'm using, and I like, the MTC-5 camshaft from Melling, that you can get from Autozone for $115.

278/288 SAE duration
204/214 @ .050" lift
107 intake centerline
117 exhaust centerline (112 lobe sep angle)
.422/.444" lift.

They do recommend replacing the springs with VS380 @ 1.72" installed height. I would recommend replacing the springs, when you replace the camshaft.

 

I would but, I have no experience porting and the average person is more likly to screw up then improve flow. No shops in my area have experience with them either (as far as I know), 60 degree heads aren't a common performance item. I want a good improvement over stock with stock heads. Also, I won't be removing the heads unless I pop a gasket, my hedders aren't cooperative with removal/installation (the are "hardwired" into the exhaust...). I need a matched set too, I wanna replace lifters.

 

If I wasn't going to run a turbo I would have goten a crane mechanical cam, they make 2 the smaller of the 2 is tame enough to run on the street.
You have to replace the lifters when you change the cam.

 

Supersix offer a nice single profile cam grind that gives max. potential to the intake side with the 3.4 stock springs, and is still computer friendly. I'll find the specs and post them.

Edit: Its actually a CompCams unit they sell with their performance package. Has 212/212 dur, .440/.440 (w/1.5 rockers), 110 lobe sep.

 

last time i had my engine and headers out, i pulled the intake, then heads, then headers. since your headers are welded in...you can pull the heads and leave the headers there. if you're worried about messing up your heads by doing port work...just go through them and "port" all of the carbon out, grind out and casting marks on both int. and ex., and smooth out and polish the exhaust side. port work, even minor, will make a difference. good luck.

PS, you really do want to do valve springs...your stock, worn ones can hurt performance with a new cam.

 

Hurt performance, my rear! Do the words 'coil bind' and 'broken spring' as well as a classic favorite 'dropped valve' mean anything?

Do not, under ANY circumstances, use old stock springs with a new cam/lifter set.

 

Wasn't planning on it . Spring need to be replaced, valve guide seals as well. I don't have the time to pull the heads and port them. As hard lined as my hedders are, I'd end up with a massive exhaust leak and 3 hours of trying to line the heads back up to the manifolds . Believe me, I WANT to, I just don't want the headache. I understand very well that porting is a good thing. I just don't wanna take too many chances at once or spend the money for new headgaskets (or hedder gaskets, Doubt I could find any). I have a perfectly good set of 2.8 heads that could be ported, but their age is questionable.... No telling what condition the valves are in. Don't the heads have to be comnpletely disassembled to port them??....Damn, now you guys are making me second guess not porting them . Ya'll suck....
Oh yeah, where can I get me some of those Kmotion 700 springs at (and for how much, cam is 89 bux still need lifters)

 

yes, you need heads dissassembled to port them and you have to have them off to do valve springs. let me know if there is a way to do valve springs with the heads still bolted on. as far as header gaskets, i've got stock exhaust gaskets on mine.

 

Compressed air...

I don't do it that way though. Just unbolt the heads, and do it right!

 

Ummm...yeah, there's a way to do the springs without pulling them. It's all about the tools man! What do you guys think of the Crower Baja beast ( .281 I .296 E - 204*I 214*E ) Seems like it would work good with the juice.