Is getting to the #1 plug easier?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 504
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From: reidsville,nc,usa
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
Is getting to the #1 plug easier?
OK...I'm doing the usual tuneup and I get to the infamous number 1 spark plug.I can't get the boot off without breaking it so I leave it on and decide to change out the rest of the plugs.It's kinda irritating to leave that one in.Is there an easier way to do it without taking the alternator bracket and stuff off?
-Ken
-Ken
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Hwy is this #1 plug so hard for you guys? Is it because maybe the smog pump is in the way?
Reason I ask is because it the easiest one for me to get to, but I don't have a smog pump on my year.
Reason I ask is because it the easiest one for me to get to, but I don't have a smog pump on my year.
This is why I end up replacing my wires along with my plugs wether they need it or not. If the boot is stuck on the plug just yank on the wire. It will normaly pull out of the boot. Then use needle nose pliars to grab the boot and pull it off. Next the conector will normaly stay behind as well. Once again use the needle nose pliars to get it off.
I have found that if I put some dielectric gresse in the boots before putting the new wires on it will help prevent the boot from sealing permently to the plug. Once you have the plug out look at the white part you will see how a layer of rubber from the boot is left on it. This is what is causing the problem.
Also I found that a pair of slim line plug wire pliars helps as well. They coast about $5, but are well worth it.
Hope this helps!
I have found that if I put some dielectric gresse in the boots before putting the new wires on it will help prevent the boot from sealing permently to the plug. Once you have the plug out look at the white part you will see how a layer of rubber from the boot is left on it. This is what is causing the problem.
Also I found that a pair of slim line plug wire pliars helps as well. They coast about $5, but are well worth it.
Hope this helps!
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 96
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From: Maine
Car: 89 firebird
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: auto
They make a spark plug wire boote remover tool to keep this from happening. I think its fairly cheap and you can get it from a parts staore or summitracing.com Also at summit I have seen wires that are guarenteed to never pull the boot off the wire for 5 years or they will replace them for you. I have a set, MSD makes them.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by dream02transam
They make a spark plug wire boote remover tool to keep this from happening. I think its fairly cheap and you can get it from a parts staore or summitracing.com Also at summit I have seen wires that are guarenteed to never pull the boot off the wire for 5 years or they will replace them for you. I have a set, MSD makes them.
They make a spark plug wire boote remover tool to keep this from happening. I think its fairly cheap and you can get it from a parts staore or summitracing.com Also at summit I have seen wires that are guarenteed to never pull the boot off the wire for 5 years or they will replace them for you. I have a set, MSD makes them.
don't skimp on your car and it'll treat you good
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 473
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From: liverpool, NY
Car: 92 camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 V6..stock exept v8 intake
Transmission: 700r4
i have a 3.1 and i use needle nose pliars to pull the plug off the use an extension on a ratchet and have someone hold a flashlight then when i put the boot back on i get the boot so its sitting in place just barely on the spark plug then use the needle nose pliars to put it on and
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
take a mallet/peice of wood & whak the wire boot where it connects to the plug. This will let you move that out of the way, since the plug's getting replaced anyway, and lets you move in w/a regular socket to the nub of plug that's left.
I have to break the middle driver's side plug like this on my 95 Blazer
I have to break the middle driver's side plug like this on my 95 Blazer
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I've never had a problem getting to the #1 plug either; I guess it's because I'm an '86 2.8 that doesn't have a serpentine belt? That's an outstanding tip, by the way, Project '85! I like it!
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Along with others, I don't see why everyone has such trouble with the #1 plug. I usually have probs with the number 5 plug...
Anyways, I just pull the wire off by the boot (and I don't have small hands either... I'm just not afraid to beat on them and bend them a little...
) and then use a 3/8 universal joint (AKA swivel) attached to my plug socket to get the plug out...
BTW, I now have all of the options except for the smog pump, but I have the smog pipe running to the manifold on that side...
Anyways, I just pull the wire off by the boot (and I don't have small hands either... I'm just not afraid to beat on them and bend them a little...
) and then use a 3/8 universal joint (AKA swivel) attached to my plug socket to get the plug out...BTW, I now have all of the options except for the smog pump, but I have the smog pipe running to the manifold on that side...
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: USA
Car: 1985 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 LB8 HO
Transmission: 700R4 with OD
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 7.625 open-factory 3.42
K-D auto speciality tools has a neat spark plug boot puller for $2.49. You can order on line at www.mytoolstore.com/kd It makes getting the boot off number 1 easy. Once the boot is off, use a socket with an extension and an articulating joint to loosen the plug. Once the plug is loose but still in the head, cut a length of hose, six inches or so, and push it on the terminal end of the plug and finish unscrewing it from the head. The hose acts as a flexible extension, and allows you to remove the plug without dropping it. The same trick with the hose can be used to install a new plug in number 1.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
why not just buy a spark plug socket? i got 2 of them in my mastercraft 200 peice kit. its got rubber in it so it locks the plug inside the socket
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 208
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From: USA
Car: 1985 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 LB8 HO
Transmission: 700R4 with OD
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 7.625 open-factory 3.42
Well, of course you have to use a spark plug socket to loosen the plug, given the length of the of the plug. In most spark plug sockets the rubber insert is just there to keep you from accidentlly breaking the porcelain insulator. Sometimes the plug will stay in the socket, often it will fall out. A piece of fuel line hose pushed on the plug terminal comes in handy removing or threading a plug in a tight place where you can't get your hand in, especially for those who don't have a 200 piece socket set.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You just bought a 200 pc set? Cool! I always wanted one... but by the time I could afford one, I already have all the tools that would come in one. 
I actually pull that rubber insert out of my spark plug sockets. For me, it's more of a pain in the butt. Like oldschool said, after I loosen the plug, I use an old piece of fuel line if I need to get to the plug. (And that usually only happens on DOHC motors where the plug is too deep inside the valve cover to reach it with fingers.)
I'm curious as hell- Can someone who has trouble with their #1 plug take a picture of the situation and put it up here?

I actually pull that rubber insert out of my spark plug sockets. For me, it's more of a pain in the butt. Like oldschool said, after I loosen the plug, I use an old piece of fuel line if I need to get to the plug. (And that usually only happens on DOHC motors where the plug is too deep inside the valve cover to reach it with fingers.)
I'm curious as hell- Can someone who has trouble with their #1 plug take a picture of the situation and put it up here?
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
the spark plug boot pliers is a good thing to use. a.k.a. chicken pliers. just grab ahold, and twist the boot, itll pop loose and USUALLY the whole thing will come loose. sometimes the connector will stay behind and you need a new wire.
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