Since I have my old 2.8 motor sitting in the garage now, I was thinking about taking it apart and giving it an overhaul and cleanup. What things need to be done? I'm sure the heads would need some refreshing. Is there an inexpensive rebuild kit for these motors? This would be my first rebuild so I'd be doing it just for fun. I don't want to find a 3.4 or anything else. This block is free sitting here. Taking it apart doesn't look to hard. What about the internals of the block? What kind of stuff should be done there? Any other info? I want to learn how to do this not hear about how I'd be better off rebuilding something else.

 

Some things that come your way, free, are not worth spending the time & effort rebuilding.
Beyond that get out the catlogs.
But seriously I can only say put your rebuilding effort into a 3.4 RWD mill.

Heads get new springs & 3 angle valve job.
Bore piston holes in block to slip in new pistons.
Choose a cam.
Bye a US Spec measuremnt torque wrench, not metric. BUT nuts & bolts usually are metric.
It's way cheaper in long run to buy a used running engine & slip it under the hood.
OH
MARK ALL HOSES & WIRES & CONNECTIONS
Lots of things get forgotten.....after awhile!

 

The Haynes and Chilton manuals for your car have pretty good basic rebuild instructions. I wouldn't bother spending too much on brand new parts that are not necessary. For example, when I rebuilt my 2.8 about 10k ago I was able to reuse the valve springs. A rebuild manual will have the specs on those so you can check them for wear. You probably don't have a lot of the "cool" tools, like a ridge reamer or a bore guage, so check with your machine shop to see how much they are willing to do within your price range. Check with a rental store to see how many tools are available that you don't own.
As you disassemble the engine, keep paper on hand and draw pictures of where things go. Use small boxes or zip lock bags to store and label parts (right head bolts, left head bolts, etc).
The machine shop should check the condition of your crank. If it is bad, look into getting a forged 3.1 crank instead.

 

I've discovered new valve springs cost like $25 for a small block chevy. The "Z-28 sped'c ones".
Cheap insurance, I'd say. Unless ya just band aiding a engine (fixing it to sell it), get new springs.

 

Can the pistons be reused and just throw some new rings on them? Or is it dependent on the cylinder wall wear?

 

Yes, you can, but in end, that cheap rebuild cost decision is up to you.

 

You have to have the cylinder walls at least honed anyways or else the new rings will not seat properly. Do it right or don't bother, you'll waste your money and have a big headache.

Take the block to a machine shop and have the block machined and spec'ed before you buy anything- You'll need the finished specs to even know if you can reuse the same pistons with overbore rings. This will also lower you compression ratio slightly which is not favorable. Best to buy new forged pistons the size of what the block is cleaned up to with the recalculated CR volume.

 

Id tear it apart n play with it just for fun.

 

I would liek to chalange that statment.

I have been searching for either a low milage or rebuilt 3.4 . I can find them, but they are so far a way that the shipping cost is $400 - $600 . Usaly more then what the engine will run me.

Now I can find a 3.1 short block in a local scrap yard for $89. Rebuild it and toss a set of rebuilt heads on $50 a peice and still keep the total cost bellow getting a 3.4 shipped to me.

Ware are all of these forth gen Camaros and Firebirds in scrap yards that I keep hearing every one talk about?!?!?!? I can't find a single one with in 150 miles of my house!!!

 

sixbanger,

I would rebuild it even was just to learn how.

 

That's the whole point of this rebuild...just to learn how to do it. I'm just not sure of what it will cost ME to do it. A 3.4 around here is $1000. The block in my garage is FREE....you do the math. I don't need performance...if I wanted that I'd buy a turbo regal t-type.

 

I'm in So. Cal an waited patiently for about 3 yearslooking for a 3.4L motor. I had many many offers that I just flat out turned down and those people are still sitting on their overpriced used motors. I came across on a few months ago from a wrecked 94 Camaro with 60,000miles on it and pickeed the entire motor up from the guy for $200.

 

Cars are like Women!
Do the Math!
In end, you will spend time and money.
Ya wanna settle or be with the right woman?
I know what ya got is free.
But who says that 3.4 ya found is the ONLY one?
BUT tearing that sample down for examining is mucho fun!
Ask FAST RS we broke down his grenaded Pontiac 350 for fun.

Now Bitchin....
LA IS A FEW HOURS AWAY!
I got all the 3.4s ya want. The guy is off the 5 Freeway in Downtown LA
These engines do fit in the trunks of many cars....
last one I found is a 50,000 engine for $900. And more miles/lower costs.
150 miles around Modesto is pretty country.
Ya can hop the 5 freeway in AM & be back home by sunset.

 

Oh and yea you can put a engine in the trunk of just about any car. Cars are made to carry 4-5 adults. A 250lb engine in the truck is nutin.

Getting it in and out nice is the hardest part.
Just need 3-4 guys to make it easy.
Two can do it just fine though.

 

Getting it into the car isn't the problem. I have carried a nice large air compressor home in the back of my Camaro. The poor guy at the loading dock just stared at me like I was carzy. It was great for traction!!!. Slam the gas pedal and there was no tire spin at all!

All though now I have a truck for hualing things like that around.

With in a 150 miles of Modesto there are a lot of scrap yards. Mostly independent yards. The corporate yards, like pick 'n pull suck. The pick 'n pull around the corner from me only has 10 or 15 thirdgens.

BTW 150 miles from Modesto can land you square in San Fransico. Hell San jose is 85 miles a way. North bond it would put you 50 miles north of Sacromento. So I am not searching empty land for an engine. The areas have built up quite a bit in the last few years. There's not a whole lot of farm land any more unfortunetly

LA. is a bit far for me. Not to mention I can't stand it there, nothing personal, but it's not the friendliest of places plus the smog makes it seem like hell. It only adds to the cost of the engine. Gas + travel time is to high. It is a 5 - 6 hour drive. $900 for a used V6 with 50,000 miles is way to high. for couple hundred more I could get a rebuilt localy. Hell I could pick up a used 350 with about the same amount miles for about the same price. I don't understand why pepole think their used and small V6 engine is gold. I would understand if it was a 4.3.

As for the car = women. I refuse to spend to much on a women. So why would I spend to much on a car?

I don't have 3 years to replace my engine. I have 330,000 miles on her and it's getting harder and harder to pass the smog test each time. Every time I have to smog her the amount of money I have to sink in her goes up. It has so much blow by at this point that it kills cat's within 6 months. Next smog test is in April. So it's time for a fresh engine now not later.

Sixbanger,

I have seen master rebuild kits sell for $250 - $300 at Kragen's and other chain parts stores. with a little diging you could proboly find them for a little cheaper.

 

Shoot me an email.
I'll supply ya with the wrecking yard phone number.
Perhaps you can still score your option at the cost ya seek. Ask the wrecking yard guy who gets them, perhaps he knows of a yard up north for your driving option, too.
You are not too wrong about LA anymore.

 

I totally agree! For all you know, the block is cracked. The shop will throw it in the hot tank (removes all oil/grime/crud) and then magnaflux it (crack check). If the block is cracked then it's junk. Do the same thing with the heads (hot tank & crack check). You could even ask them to check the crank and connecting rods too...

...and then you've probably spent $500 without getting any work done.

Sure some guys just tear apart a motor, stick a cylinder hone on a drill and shove it thru the cylinders, throw new parts on it and check clearances with plastigage instead of real tools... but it's up to you!

If you just wanna have fun with it, you could tear it apart as-is, and then just put it back together. Once it's back together, build an engine test stand. Dig up a non-computer-controlled carb and a non-computer-controlled distributor from a junkyard, wire up a cheap tachometer, and fire the engine up. A complete gasket set is probably under $100.

 

pift who needs an engine stand thats what floors are for!

 

Most times, most engines, you can get a short block or a long block cheaper then getting all the work done your self.

If your gonna go all out having the motor prepped.


Might not be around anymore but there were those GM short block on Ebay for $200, $111 shipping.

 

Well, I said an engine TEST stand, not an engine stand... but if you test your engine on the floor, more power to ya!

 

**** I dont even test my engine I know the damn thing doesn't work