Hello people! I experienced somthing that was very wierd in traffic yesterday. While driving, the cars idle was very high and the RPM gage went to zero and stayed there for about 5 seconds and went back to like 2500RPMs and went normal. I pressed the pedal and had no response from the engine and it cut off in traffic and started right back up. This continued to happen 2 more times and cut off both times. Once I got the car home it happen agin and would not start. I came out side about 30 min later and it started with no problem. This mornning the car seems normal. What is this and how do I fix it please? Thanks for any help.

Note: I am not getting a check engine light. Also Im pretty sure the TV cable is bad on the car its been bad for a while can that cause this problem?

 

Was it a hot day?

Your ignition module (at the base of the distributor, the black thing you see when you take off the dist cap with two external and one internal connectors) could be shot.

The "classic" ignition module death is- runs great cold, as the motor warms up it runs bad, when the motor's hot the car dies. Then the car won't start until the motor cools down again. Then the whole situation repeats itself.

You can change the module without pulling the dist, but you might wanna pull the dist and replace the pickup coil too. The pickup coil is also visible under the dist cap, if it's the original, it's a yellowed falling-part looking thing with two wires going to the ignition module. The only way to change the $12 pickup coil is removing the distributor, you need to knock the distributor gear off and slide the shaft "up" thru the top of the dist body.

It's definately not the TV cable, a bad TV cable will just destroy the trans, the engine will still be okay. (REPLACE THE TV CABLE!!!)

 

yes it was pretty warm in LA yesterday. I have changed the distributor, pick-up coil within the last year, but not the moduel. can the moduel be changed pretty easy and will it set off a code? Also if you happen to have a part number to the modual what is it and how long should it take to change, and what dose the module do for the car?

 

YOU THINK YOU GOT IT BAD
My radiator cracked on the side plastic pod today.
Stranded me twice.
You....
I think strongly it's fuel pump.
Has it ever been replaced before?
If ya on Westside I have a place you can TRUST to bring it to, for figuring out what ails your car.
PS There is also a guy close by (on Westside) that will repair your AC and refill it correctly, too.
Give a shout
I say fuel pump.
ONLY a fuel pressure gauge, located on the fuel rail, will tell you IF your pump is failing.

 

Sounds like the ECM taking a crap to me. Drop the passenger side hush panel and gently tap on the ECM while it's running and see if it stalls on ya.

Here in Vegas where it gets really hot the boards will warp and crack inside the case and cause that exact same thing. The idle was probably due to the ECT reading dropping to -47c and the ecm compensating, then the ecm probably opened the circuit for the injectors causing it to stall.

Seen it many a times.

 

I went ahead and changed the Ignition module and its seems fine right now. I have changed the fuel pump also within the last year. The strainer was really bad on that thing with a big hole in it. Today is another hot day so we will see if it happens. i will try the ecm stradegy. should i be getting a code for anything with this problem? thanks

 

You will get a code for the ecm if a specific curcuit fails...or if the whole thing craps...though it is what controls the codes, so it could go bad an tell you nothing. One time when mine went it would not run a code check...the check engine light would not even light...let alone flash a code!

 

If its going bad (ignition module) when its hot, will it show up bad on the test at the shop or does it have to be hot to show up as no good?

 

Myself having gone thru SIX ICMs in a very short period (try bad alternator!! giving high voltage spike shorting them out at any time!), either it works or not.
NOW you....
The least expensive one I got was Autozone forget what brand but at $28!
I tired Niehoff, Borg Warner, AC Delco (with made in China cast into the part!), all same results of work or not work!
If not work, no spark. It works, engine runs.....
Go get another one from Autozone & just swap in.
The bolt size is a 5.5 metric super fine thread screws.
But if engine runs, go to another part for cause.