Will the parts from autozone work for this job? I don't have the money to buy the more performance parts. I just use this thing as a DD. The mechanic showed me the play in the wheels. It was quite a bit. I don't know how dangerous it is to drive it like this but I don't really have much of a choice right now.

How hard is it to do?

 

Yeah they're fine... AHELLUVALOT better than worn-out ones, even if not "the best".

Get the center link, all 4 rod ends, the idler arm, and the adjustment sleeves; assemble them all except the idler arm. Scribe around the old idler arm so you can put the new one back on in EXACTLY the same place. (same axis of rotation, same height) Remove the old ones from the car as a complete unit: i.e., unbolt the 2 idler arm bolts, pickle-fork the rod ends off the spindles and the center link off the Pitman arm. Lay the assemblies on the ground side by side; and adjust your new ones to the same lengths as the old ones. Install, and drive DIRECTLY to alignment rack.

Not hard at all really. Quite easy in fact. You can even "rent" the pickle fork from VatoZone.

 

All four rod ends?

 

There are inner and outer tie rods. The inner connect to the center link and the outer connect to the wheel assembly with the sleeves in the middle holding them together. I would relace evenrything sofakingdom said. I actually just did this not to long ago...It will steer so much better.

 

While you're replacing the adjuster sleeves, UMI has some solid ones that are competitively priced. You'll pay a little more, but if you can afford it, it's worth it.

Be sure to check the inner rods from Autozone, or where ever, for the location of the grease fitting. I've seen them with the fitting on the back, making it impossible to lube with it installed-butt up against the K-member. You'll see what I mean if you look at your stock ones, the inner and outer have the fittings in a different location.

 

I would only try and get either MOOG or TRW front end parts. It's a little more $$$ but much better quality. If you buy Autozones stuff, you be doing to twice... just my $.02 worth...

 

were do you buy moog parts?

 

Summit

 

If you really want to save money on front end parts, try this site. The low end stuff is pretty inexpensive & will get you by.

www.rockauto.com

Corky

 

 

replaced it all and I still have a vibration. I didn't replace the pitman arm cause it was fine. I don't have any wheel bearing issues. I wonder how much play should there be in the wheel after everything has been replaced? I have a very little. It is not completely solid but it is 100x better.

I noticed that my sway bar bushings are bad. I wonder if that could be causing some of it.

I notice a slight steerign wheel movement at 45 and then alot of vib at 70mph. It's better of course with the new sutff but still there. I had the tires balanced and I guess they checked out. I noticed that the tires up front are different from the ones in the back and one of the front tires has a plug in it.

I bought the Irock rims and tires from a guy her on thirdgen. I'll check the trans mount and see what it is like. I've been reading about these kind of issues other members are having and they have tried almost everything and nothing works.

I have some options:
motor mounts- last option
tranny mounts
flex plate
torque converter
ujoints--not spending the money on a drive shaft.
sway bar bushings

I'll sell it before I dump awhole lot more money into it. Just easier to find one that is in good shape then deal with this crap.

 

So which is it? Do you have play in the steering or do you feel vibration in the steering wheel at certain speeds?

If its the latter, then it's not your steering that's the problem. It's probably your wheels. They're out of balance and that's causing thte vibrations in the steering wheel.

 

I should have said that I feel it at 45 and more around 70 in the wheel. I'm going to swap the old tires out and see what happens. If it's the wheels then that's my luck. I do not have play in the steering it is tight.

 

you can try rotating the tires and see if the vibration in the steering wheel goes away. if not, youve either got an issue not related to the wheels/tires, or some pretty bad wheel/tire set. start w/ a rotate and see what happens.

 

i was about to point out that he can't rotate, but you can still rotate side to side, just not front to back since you have IROC wheels, they have different offsets front and rear.

i would swap to your old wheel tire combo and take a test lap, that seems the easiest first step. then just keep going like that eliminating parts. have anyone you can borrow a driveshaft from?

as far as transmission mount, they are $30 for the "high end" polyurethane energy suspension brand. you can get them at "baxters" auto parts if you have any near you. i think pepboys might stock them as well. summit of course. it will last longer then a rubber one, and my be a little stiffer right from the get-go, but not by much.

 

I sorta hope it's the wheels. That would be an easy fix. I've got a buddy with a 91 third gen. I'll ask.
I noticed today a slite movement in the wheel but felt the shake in my butt, dash, floor and the vibration throught the steering wheel. Not terrible but it's there.

 

MRC from NAPA are MOOG parts with NAPA's name on them. I just did this job and it's pretty straight forward, I think I still have the receipt and can get part numbers when I get home. As soon as I replace the bushings in the A-arms, the car goes directly to the alignment rack.

EDIT: Nevermind, I see you've already got the parts on the car. Your vibration at speed could very well be in the wheels, I would have their balance checked.

 

Autozone sucks, go to Napa or Advanced Auto Parts.

I've had tons of issues with them just make sure your parts arn't duralast.

 

Its probably your wheels are out of balance. If the vibration is only at certain speeds then it is your wheels.