How difficult it is to change the valve cover gaskets on the 2.8L with multi point fuel injection? From everything I've read, the upper intake and lower intake need to come off. Is it a two piece plenum AND the intake or just the upper plenum and the manifold? It's hard to tell.

How difficult is this job for the average guy on a scale of 1 to 10? I'm afraid to dig in over my head with this.

Any tips are greatly appreciated!

 

I did mine this spring, wasn't that hard, just took time. You gotta take the throttle body,plenum, and middle intake off, the actual manifold that sits in the valley stays there. Also make sure you organize the parts and bolts you take off so everything gets put back right. For the bolts that actually hold the covers on, a 1/4 in ratchet, a fer extensions, and a U joint will be your best friend.

 

I think you just made my day. There are 3 parts to the manifold? Upper plenum, lower plenum and then the intake? If that's the case, then I'm gold. I can do that! I was afraid of having to take off the manifold that connects to the block because I've heard horror stories about changing the gasket between the intake and the block. Thanks a ton!

 

Sounds like you've got the idea. It's not really hard, just work. Biggest problem in thw whole job for me was getting all the fuel injectors back in, don't think it can be done with just one person.

 

I've used Vaseline on the o-rings on the injectors while reinstalling. I've unfortunately had the pleasure of putting them in by myself. It took lots of patience and cursing. Just take your time.

Felpro sell a intake gasket set that comes with everygasket you need for the valve covers and the manifold. I got mine and Autozone I think it was around 25$.

When installing the valve cover gaskets I used High-tack cement to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover and I didn't use and I didn't use anything to stick the gasket to the head. I've been running about 7 months so far and no signs of leaks yet.

 

I didn't know about the fuel injectors. Fill me in about that.

I'm willing to take as much time as I need since the car isn't going to be used until next spring, but I'm just looking out for any surprises that come while I'm doing this.

Did you come across any unexpected problems when you did it?

 

To remove the middle of the intake you have to remove the fuel rail and injectors. Next time you go to AutoZone or AdvancedAuto, Look for the Haynes Repair Manual, I think mine was under 20$ it has a lot of good infomation and pictures to help you with the engine and the rest of the car. It's helped me a couple times while wrenching.


EDIT - actually now that I read the repair manual and has crap information on the job. LOL.

 

dont bother with those manuals...they really arent worth anything

if your gonna wrench on your car get on ebay and find a factory service manual, itll come in handy a lot

 

when I changed mine, the biggest problem I had was all the EGR crap on the passenger side..

 

And you have to be careful with the flex tube, they like to crack

 

that wasn't it ...it was that I BROKE one of the two bolt heads holding the EGR in place because it was rusty, and I didn't want to risk breaking the other one, so I said "screw it" and jsut left it.

So I have one really nice polished valve cover, and one that is just clean

 

If you have a welder you can weld a nut to the broken stud and try to take it out. When I still had the 2.8, I broke both bolts holding the valve to the pipe looking thing to the manifold, and that's how I had to get them out. PITA though if you ask me haha

 

I have the Haynes manual and you are correct - it's got crap for information. I think it says "remove the manifold". Nice detail, right? That's why I'm here. LOL. I checked out a couple of hardcover Chilton manuals and factory manuals at the library that had some of the "missing" information. Between all the books, it gave me a fair idea of what is there. But guys like you who have done it are more valuable than a book will ever be.

I already had my eye on the EGR and other things on the passenger side. Once that stuff gets rusty, it's next to impossible to remove cleanly, that's for sure. Does that stuff need to come off too? There's not enough clearance to pull the passenger side cover off once the manifold is off? These are the kinds of surprises I'd like to be prepared for.

I guess it's time to start unbolting. Wish me luck! Let me know if you have any more tips. You guys are great. Thanks a bunch!

 

Got the thing apart, cleaned up and back together in about 48 hours. It went much better than I expected. But now I have a fuel leak either from the fuel rail or the injectors. I have gas leaking where the rear two injectors are on the passenger side. I'll have to take the top of the plenum off and turn the key on to see where it's coming from. The injectors are installed solidly. I think it's the o-rings on the injectors or on the fuel rail. Any ideas of what to check for? How hard is it to replace those O-rings?

 

Most likeley the O rings or the injector isnt sitting in its port quite right. You should be able to remove the O rings with just a pick or small screwdriver, although I've never done it on this car. I say replace em any time you have the Injectors removed, They're cheap so might as well.

 

Gonna have to pull the injector rail and all the injectors to change the o-rings, when you reinstall put some vaseline on all the o-rings and it should all slide back in will no problem.

 

I got the vaseline tip before and it works great, doesn't it? No problem taking the top plenum and the fuel rail off again.

I think the o rings are shot, so those will get replaced. I've never messed with injectors before. I know the O-rings are cheap, but is replacing them difficult? Also, when I looked online (O'reilly's website is pretty good) there were different sets of O rings. Looked like there are some for the injectors and some for the rail. ??? Help me out with that!

 

Cut the old rings off with a razor blade if necessary, put a part of a new ring into the groove, and roll the rest of the ring into the groove. GP-Sorenson P/N 800-9220, comes with 4 extra rings if you replace both rings on each injector.

 

It's the o ring on the cold start fuel line. It's chewed up real bad, so fuel is squirting out of that fitting. Can't find the O ring I need since there is no specific part number for this (even at the dealership). It's a small diameter o ring, fairly thick. I found one that MIGHT be suitable in a sampler package at the parts store for $7.00. That might be my only option. Anyone ever heard of this or have a fix?

 

any good parts store has the o-ring kits, with the caps

 

He's referring to the o-ring on the fuel feed tube for the 7th injector...

Which is only found in the fuel rail o-ring kit. Or, instead of paying $8-10 for the kit just for the one ring, you can go to a parts store that has bulk o-rings in a box, get 2 small ones the diameter of the line and 2 large ones the OD of the original ring for about $2.

:edit: A hint to this is that you CAN get away with lifting the fuel rail up enough to sneak the lower plenum out from between the fuel rail and the manifold, so the CSI doesn't have to be disturbed and the o-ring damaged or lost.

 

Thanks man. I can double or triple up a few rings to make it work? That fuel line is pretty long actually as it goes into the fuel rail, so there IS room for 3 or 4 rings. I'm going to give that a try.

My only concern is that a fuel leak in this area (on top of the intake manifold) would make the car extra crispy in a hurry, so I need to be sure the fix is a good one.

 

For the cold start injector piece that connects into the fuel rail, I used a thick piece of vacuum hose as an o-ring. I wish I had some pictures

 

I used the 4-rings trick until I got rid of my 2.8 fuel rail a couple years ago (before I realized that I needed the CSI ). It won't work with one of each ring, or 2 of one size, there HAS to be 4 rings. The small rings go on last, as they compress the large rings and help them seal against the outer part of the fitting, and the small rings compress against the bottom of the fitting.

 

I got the sampler pack specifically rated for gasoline. There was one in there that fit just right. So far no leaks. I think it's done!