Alright, got everything for the cam swap now.

Electric Waterpump....Check
High Lift Valve Springs....Check
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain....Check
CC306 Bumpstick (230 / 244, .510 / .540 112 LSA)....Check

I can't wait to start tearing that corvette *** up with this cam. Anyone know a pretty good way to change valve springs? I've done it before using a air compressor however, i've never done the turn the crank thing. I've taken my balancer off a couple times. Do these go on only one way? I wouldn't want the timing arrow to be off and drop a fricken valve on to the piston.

 

All together:

 

Electric waterpump:

 

Double roller! :rockon:

 

Yup, thanks to the crankshafts woodruff key, the balancer can only go on in one direction.

The compressed air is the fastest and easiest way to hold the valves up during spring removal. Otherwise, yes, there is the nylon rope slid into the chamber then the crank is rotated to pin up the valves. It works, but it's time consuming (compared to compressed air) as you have to do each cylinder seperatly, or if you know the various stages, you could do both the compression and the exhaust stages for 2 cylinders at a time (i.e. cylinders #1 and #6). Up to you and what you want to do.

 

Well, this is going to be at someones shop, don't believe he has an air compressor. So looks like im gonna be doing the time consuming part. I can do 4 springs at one time right? Since when one is TDC another is at the same time correct?

 

You can. I like to do one at a time, completely. That ensures all my attention is on that one cylinder (those damn locks....). I just follow the firing order around and go through 2 complete rotations on the the crank.

Do you have a crank rotating tool?

 

Nope, was thinking I could just turn it with the balancer. Or does the hub need to come off to swap a cam? I've never done a cam swap.

 

Read through my sig. It contains all you need to know.

You can rotate it by the balancer. I would rotate it by the pulley instead.

And yes, the entire assembly needs to come off - basically, you need to expose the crankshaft snout.

 

u should but an impeller on that water pump to reduce cultivation

 

Huh? That IS the impeller.

 

Awesome, thanks.

 

its a thin round disk made of stainlessteel u put on over the impeller fins. this reduces air in the system

 

Leave the impellers alone. If you are worried about air in the system, run a surge tank.

 

Im not worried about air, the lt1's have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing.

 

sweet

i think he is talking about cavitation, which i doubt you will have any problems with using an electric water pump unless it spins pretty fast when its in the motor & moving water.


some info about cavitation

http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/01-html/1-3.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/34_407.html

 

it will increase water flow up to 30%. i had air forming in the coolant because my hyperformance water pump spun so fast it was creating air. took it off put the disk on and haven't had a problem since

 

if you have the money tho you might as well run a purge tank or surge tank that lets air our form the overflow tank. i thni summit sells em

 

A late model LT-1 engine? Make sure you have the right timing chain. LT-1s have some quirks to them that restrict which timing chain/gearsets you can use. I don't recall any double-row chain sets available for the LT-1 but I haven't worked on those engines much.

Also, I'm not sure about the clearance on a stock LT-1 head between the retainer and valve guide seal but you better be sure it's got more than your cam's max lift. Older SBC heads would regularly run out of room at only .470 lift, but I'm not sure what kinda clearance an LT-1 head has.

 

I have a 95. The 93-94's have the quirks. Also the 96-97 have the crank position sensor that has to be deleted. I got the best of the years for the lt1. 95 Had the vented opti and was still OBD I . The only way to use a double roller on a LT1 is to run an electric waterpump. Thatr way the crank no longer turns the waterpump.

 

Poo, just found out you need to mark the crankshaft hub position because the LT1 isn't keyed. Just one more thing to do I guess.

 

Mua hahaha, found a clip of the CC306 at idle:

http://camaro.ccurtis.net/media/carstart.mp3

Chug-a Chug-a Chug-a

Gonna suck in small children and kill tiny wild flowers when I drive by.

 

Haha.... Parts look good Pasky, how much power you looking at adding?

Best of luck,
Brandon