richcz28

I am having trouble changing my engine mounts in my 84 305 camaro engine mounts. The bolts have nuts inside the frame which seem unreachable. Are there any possible solutions to this problem.

Thanks

bbatton

I just went thru this with my engine swap! of course it was a little easier with the motor out, but I was able to use a long ext, and a swivel to get up thru the springs. a tight fit but if you take your time it can be done.

ScottieB

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ation-tip.html

IROCKERZ

just get someone to welt it.. saves a LOT of time, headache.. etc..

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I would strongly discourage that.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i dropped my A arms and took the springs out to get at the bolts. Had my dad ratchet the top bolts tight while i held a wrench on the nuts from below

support the tip of the a-arm with a jack. take off the brakes/hub/shock at the mounting point and lower the tip of the a-arm down all the way. becareful of the spring. it shouldnt pop out but you never know. lower it all the way down and then pry the spring out the perch. i have lowering springs so it was easier as they arent as tall.

Once i did the mounts, just pop in the spring and reverse the process.

Getting the springs out and in was the harder part. trick is to compress the spring before you take it out. Pump the a-arm up to compress spring, then wrap a chain and bolt around the coils before you lower the a-arm. Then you should beable to slip it back in once its out, then jack up the a-arm.

what would be awesome if they welded the nuts on the back of the frame so you didnt have to do all this work

ScottieB

some people change from v6-v8's... so they would have to weld 12 instead of just 6

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i'm not sure what a v6 k member looks likes, but i cant imagine it being too much different than the V8 k members...it wouldnt make sense to me that GM would make 2 seperate versions

And i cant see how 6 bolts per mount would be possible on my cars k member and stock mounts. what does a V6 mount look like?? Funny how a V8 would get less bolts than a V6 considering the amount of power a V8 will have over the V6

Get a V8 car clamshell setup that has 3 bolts a piece and work with that. thats what i'd do

But considering the method i used can be done in an hour or 2, and poly motor mounts will last for several thousand miles... i dont think you really need to go with the welded nuts on teh k member.. it would just make sense that GM would have done that to make it simpler on install and for motor mount changes

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

A V6 front cross member looks a lot like a V8 front cross member because - they are the exact same thing.

A V6 frame engine mount looks a lot like a V8 frame engine mount because - they are the same thing.

However, the V6 and V8 mounts do not share any holes in the front cross member, so for the factory to make the same cross member work for both engine types would require 12 nuts to be welded inside the cross member - they chose to drill the holes and only use nuts where required for the engine being mounted. Probably saved $1.20 per car (that adds up in a hurry).

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

so the mount location is different from V6 to V8, thats why there are extra holes... i get it now

But still you'd only need to weld 3 nuts on for a V8 or V6 since the mount is only held down by 3 bolts, atleast on mine its 3 bolts. So whenever you get to those bolts and nuts, weld them on next time you change mounts or location for V8 swap, it will be easy to change over

If it was from the factory i can see welding all 6 per side for both setups and that could add up still would have been nice... alot of frame holes on these cars are threaded... why not the engine mount holes? would have been a nice feature to have

richcz28

i do not understand what like the last five posts are about. and i am not taking off my a arms to do this that is ridiculous. whoever had the fishing line tip thanks that sounds useful.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

you dont have to take off the a-arms, just lower them all the way down to get the spring out to get at the nuts on the mounts

One way or the other, you have to get at the nuts and the spring is in the way

Jody K

i just swapped mine the other day. took about an hour for each side.

do not remove the whole A arm. i did not even have to remove the spring. i just removed one bolt, the one blocking the entrance to where the nuts are. remove that and let the a arm drop down. this should give enough clearance to get your hand in there and secure a wrench on each nut. then unsrew the bolts from the top. the hard part was getting the bolt back in the A arm. let me know if you need advice on that.

i really found this pretty easy and would suggest this way of changing out the mounts.

hope this helps.

steeljab

iTrader: (3)

i just used a wrench for one nut on each side, and a ratchet with a 4-6" ext and a universal joint for the other 2 per side, while i had somone take the bolts outs.....i did not remove anything to gain access, there was a 2-3" hole near enough the nuts to reach.




i used a wire coat hanger to hold the nuts up in there while putting the bolts back in..and used rtv to hold the washers on the nuts.

remltr

iTrader: (4)

I'm about to do the same,however I need new bolts,nuts and the heavy washers. Anybody know where I can get them from? The car I have had the mounts completely removed.

CaddyMan

Use a rotary wheel and cut the exposed ends off. The bolt will fall down to the ground. Now take some craft wire and run it down through the hole. It will come out the bottom. Next, take the bolt and thread the craft wire around it. Pull the wire slowly and there you have it. Took me about a half hour for all six bolts.