thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I was replacing the center link in my 86 Firebird when everything went down the crapper.

The centerlink will not come off of the idler arm. The nut came off, but its still stuck on tight.
So I decided to try and remove the idler arm aswell. The nuts didn't want to come off......so I finally got a long enough breaker bar on there to start rotating them. Well.....the freaking bolts are rotating with the nuts. On the idler arm. The top one apears to be attached inside the frame.

Does anyone have any idea what to do here? It looks like I have to cut the frame apart to get at the idler arm bolts. Any tips on separating the idler arm from the centerlink? I have a pickle fork for ball joints........didn't work.

Kinda at a loss here.......used all brute force idea's so far......

slow_90firebird

Im not sure, but I always thought it was pressed on, and you would need a pickle fork to get it off. Maybe you need better force, like a puller?

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

yeah......I actually put a hydraulic jack underneath the idler arm to keep it from flexing, and used a sledge hammer on the center link to try and get it out. Didn't budge at all. The pickle fork needs to jet jammed in there to have some leverage.......right now it just slides out when I start trying to pry with it. Using a sledge hammer to try and beat it in there got me nowhere aswell.

slow_90firebird

I was gonna say, usually you dont pry with a pickle fork. You hammer it in, untill the taper seperates the parts.

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

Any other idea's? A freaking sledgehammer couldn't get the fork to slide between.......

slow_90firebird

PB and a torch maybe? But that would probably ruin the idler arm.

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

I left the idler arm soaking in pb blaster. I dont think a torch will ruin the idler arm.......it just has the hole in it....the actual joint is on the center link.

That may be my only option left......

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i wouldnt recommend a torch, i dont know how forged/cast steel reacts to heat. I dont see why the pickle fork is not working. Just beat the hell out of it with a BFH and it should pop apart. Maybe give the stud a couple wacks from the nut side as well, maybe it will jolt things loose.

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

I gave the stud about 100 wacks from a sledge hammer from the nut side.
Nothing. Didn't budge at all.

This freaking thing is like.....welded on or something.......

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i was thinking you were talking about the pitman arm

is the idler arm stock? if so you should replace it too. If you pull out the wheel well liner in the passenger side wheel well you will see 2 holes in the frame, you access the nuts for the idler arm through these holes. If you just swap that arm too, you dont need to worry about dealing with the stupid centerlink anymore

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

Really? I didn't know they were accesible in there........wow.
You jsut saved me from alot of frustration.

thanks......hoefully that goes well tommorrow

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i was able to get mine off with just removing the front of the wheel liner, not the whole thing, its just a pain getting all the clips out and not breaking them all...

thebufenator

iTrader: (2)

yeah I'll bet. I guess I need to jack the car up now aswell.
So far all I have done is with the car on the ground..........the v6 leaves plenty of room :P

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

I take it your not using air tools? If your doing it manually you'll gonna need alot of room to swing that hammer.

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

Torch it then give it a good wack with a BFH it'll come right out. There is nothing wrong with some heat there. Either way you are replacing the centerlink so nothing to damage.

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

If you use a torch be sure to have an extingusher or a water hose ready, all that pb, oil, & sludge will be flameable. Try using 2 hammers if you can, rest the head of one hammer against the center link where the idler arm is & hit it with the other hammer.





If its your pitman arm you can do it the sameway make sure to hit the center link & not the pitman, or you'll mess up your steering.


oh yeah make sure you leave the castle nuts on , only a few turns to keep the nut on, so when you hit it, the center link does'nt fall on you or your head. SAFETY FIRST

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you put the new idler arm back in in THE EXACT SAME PLACE as the old one. Its axis must be parallel to the axis that the Pitman arm rotates on (the steering gear), and its height must be the same as the steering gear. If it's not, your car will steer REALLY WEIRD.

Easiest way to change the center link, is to change it, the tie rod ends, tie rod adjusting sleeves, and idler arm, all together as one unit. Odds are, if ANY ONE of those things needs changed, then all the rest have the same number of years, the same number of miles, the same number (or not ) of lube jobs, the same amount of wear, and so forth, and therefore are all in about the same condition. Not alot of sense in changing one part today, then next weekend change another, then the next weekend yet another, and so on; all the while suffering with a car that drives terrible and wears tires.

Scribe the frame around the idler arm's shaft first, so you can put the new one back on in the same spot. Take out the 2 idler arm bolts (especially since you now know how easy that is), the 2 tie rod nuts on the spindles, and the center link nut where it hooks to the Pitman arm. Se[arate the 3 joints, and remove all taht stuff as an assembly. Lay it on the ground. Assemble your new parts right next to it, adjusting the tie rods to the same length. Install as a unit. Drive to alignment shop.

Buck268

On my 91 Camaro RS I had a major issue seperating the idler arm from the centerlink. The trick, I found, was to use the proper size pickle fork and just keep on hammering. Eventually it'll pop. It may end up leaving the idler arm bushing behind, if so then the idler will need replaced also.

As for the idler arm, I recently replaced that in the bird and noticed the same thing you have. If you remove the passenger size wheel (I didn't but it would have been MUCH easier if I had) and pull down the fender skirt, you will see a little hole in the frame with a bolt head in it and a second hole with a bolt head. Have a second set of hands hold these with a breaker bar while you unscrew the nuts. I found on the bird (unlike any other idler arm I've done) I literally had to unscrew the bolts from the idler arm after I removed the nuts because the fit was so tight. Did this all with just my two hands and let me tell you, would have been nice to have a second set!


Oh yeah, and PB blaster is ALWAYS your freind!