bakerstreet

I have a 92 RS 305 TBI (all stock) & it has always ran great & has never ever had any starting or driving issues.

I replaced the intake manifold (b/c it had a small crack near the thermostat housing) with another oem manifold, & after I got it all put back together, now I have no spark & no injector spray & obviously the car won't start.

I made sure that I didn't stress any distributor or coil wires when removing & replacing everything.

I've taken out the ingnition module & coil before in the past (just to have them tested) while doing a tune up, & I put the same ones back in with no problems.

I have triple checked all connections, rotor is pointing to #1 plug on the ditributor & still no spark or fuel spray.

I disconnected the battery b/4 starting the intake removal process, & didn't reconnect it until everything was back together.

I have gas in the tank, & i even poured gas into the TBI & it still would not start?

As I stated, the car has always ran great without any problems at all.


So what could've happened to casue this no start, no spark & no injector spray issue?

bakerstreet

The problem continues, it cranks over but will not start.

I didn't see any ground wires attached to the intake manifold b/4 I took it off, & I can feel wires grounded to the back of both heads.

I just took the ingnition module & coil & had them tested & they tested ok.

What could I be overlooking?

bakerstreet

Anyone have any ideas?

iggy1991

Look at the dash and look for the check engine light. it should be go out if the ecm is working properly. If it is blinking or stays on its not working. Also no oil pressure will not let the motor start either

iggy1991

blown fuel pump fuse?

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

It sounds like a bad ignition control module. You say you've changed them in teh past, but you have not changed it since this problem happened correct? I am almost 100% sure that is your problem.

Thier is also a ground location ont he back of the cylinder head, sometimes when messing with the wire loom (like in changing the intake manifold) you can jar it loose, check those also!

RFmaster

Get your DVM or a test light - verify that your are getting +12V at your coil pink wire (the two pin connector) - pin B of the gray connector. If you are getting +12 at the coil disconnect the two wire harness at distributor - (IRC it should have pink and white wires and black connectors) Measure Pin A & B of the two wire harness - both should have +12 Volts.

Injectors should have +12 volts with ignition on.

These are basic checks

//RF

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

After 5 years stored I tried today and no injector spray.

Here it is.
I have spark
Check Engine light is off.
All new ignition (Alternator, battery, plugs, wires, 0gauge grounds 1 to body, 1 to head, 1 to firewall. I do not have one on the intake but that shouldn't matter with all the other grounds. Does it?)
When starting rpm's sit around 500rpm.
Oil pressure rises to 60 as I start and keep starting
The car starts easily without problems with some gas in the TB or some starter fluid, but the injectors do not spray at all. I have all new grounds through innovative wiring.

Is it possible I have my coil connectors on backwards, would this matter? gray connector towards passenger side and black towards driver side.

Everything is fine except no injector spray. Sorry if I hi-jacked, but I feel we could kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

P.S. My column was popped so I can't just turn ignition on without actually starting the car, in which it doesn't. Thanks for the help.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Well first make sure you have fuel getting to the injectors, you do? great.

Now check that your injectors are getting power when they should be, they are not? Nice, grab the wiring diagram and move through it looking for the issue.

I know not much to go on, not an electrical expert, but i bet its something simple youve overlooked.

Sounds electrical, grab an ohm meter and go for it,

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

i dont think your coil wires are on backwards they only go on 1 way. I hate wwd I think yours may be a vats problem. OP I stand by that your is in fact the ignition control module. and I hate wwd yours may be that also.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Looks like another day in the GUYrage. Check fuel pump tomorrow. If good, replace fuel filter, add fresh gas with some seafoam. Undo all grounds, clean up their area's and re-install, if no spray, move on. Replace ICM, if no spray, move on. Bypass VATS to get that out of the way, if still no spray Ill post a reply.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

have fun!

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Twisted off fuel line as the fuel filter bolts were seized and cross threaded, darn you last owner. Going to use rubber fuel line hose and get back to it tomorrow. Grounds cleaned up. Almost done diagnosing.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

When starting the car without the key my security dash light stays off. When starting with the key the security light stays on then turns off. This means it isn't the VATS, correct?

Lastly, when starting the car with or without the key and the fuel filter removed there is no fuel coming out of the lines. This would indicate it is a fuel pump issue correct? There is slight pressure building up in the gas tank every time I try to start, but to no avail and no spray from the injectors. Let me know, but from my diagnosis, it looks like it is the fuel pump.

iggy1991

your Vats is working properly if the light turns off. I would try to bypass the relay and connect the hot wires with a test wire with the fuel pump relay removed. If it starts to hum its working. If not then pull the rear connector off the harness above the rear diff under the car and retest the connector. If it hums its a wiring issue between the relay and the connector. if it doesnt then I would pull the tank and replace the pump.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Fuel pump is out of commission. I got signal at the relay and at the rear connector but the pump did nothing. Pump and new relay (might as well since it's the stock relay and the wires are frayed.) Will update with a video possibly after I get the pump ordered and installed. Awaiting paypal money to go through. Thanks for the steps.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

New fuel pump, strainer, fuel filter, and relay with fresh gas and still no buzzing from the pump or injector spray. Fully charged battery and all grounds and starting connections are solid. I am thinking it may be my frayed fuel pump relay harness connector, as it's not giving me proper readings when testing with the multimeter. Only thing next is the ICM. But that doesn't explain the pump not turning on. Picture attached shows frayed wires. But, I cannot find this part anywhere. Can someone give me a place selling the harness connector assembly/kit? Autozone has the one for the rear, so does Summit and Advanced. GMPartsDirect only has the rear too. I need the front that connects to the relay as shown. Thanks.

Aviator857

The relay side of the wiring is available for hawks, I just ordered one (part number: TPIWIR-460). Or you can use a standard relay and wiring and loose the GM specific one.

I'm going through similar issues, your vats is fine as it also disables the starter if tripped.

You can try wiring the fuel pump directly to a 12v source also to see if it comes on, if it does the car will start. put some fuel into the throttle body to get it running as your injectors are probably stuck if its been setting but they usually free up with full pressure and pulsing.

Also once your car is running and has oil pressure the Oil pressure switch will power the fuel pump.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, I'll get back to you.

Aviator857

btw there is a fuse on the inner fender rail just behind the battery (before the radiator catch bottle), if you pull the "connector" it comes out and there is a standard blade fuse there. This powers the fuel pump and also has something to do with the ecm.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Picture please. I have nothing close to this description in that area. Are these those fusible links everyone talks about? I never had those on my car when I bought it and it ran fine. So I never re-did them when I re-did my wiring as the car ran fine without them.

EDIT: Okay, uploaded some pictures of what I think your talking about. Should this be on the negative ground or positive?

Aviator857

yes the little black thing with the orange and red wire is the fuse I was talking about. From the factory it is attached to the fender rail between the battery and the overflow tank. At any rate make sure that fuse is good.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

It is a 30amp fuse and is brand new and working. Is it correct in being grounded?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If it is the fuse for the fuel pump & ECM, no, it should be connected to +12 volts. Battery power, on at all times.

Do a key-on, engine-off, SES light should turn on, blink off then turn on solid.

If the SES doesn't light at all then the ECM isn't getting battery power.

RBob.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Started right up. Happy now, BRB with video.

Edit: Dang, video didn't take audio. She sounded beautiful though. Thanks for all the help, still can't believe it was those 2 wires the whole time.

P.S. My neighbors were all staring at my house when I walked out of the garage.