Putting my headers on :( Problem
#1
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Putting my headers on :( Problem
Murphy showed up at my house this week. I've been working on my exhaust from the manifolds to the muffler. It was bad enough getting the cat back off but the y-pipe wasn't to bad. Then the real fun began as I started taking off the exhaust manifolds. With all the rust and hard to get to buts and nolts I thought that was going to be the biggest hardest part of the whole header install untill, I went to loosen the bolt closest to the fire wall on the drivers side of the engine. I put my wrench on it and noticed it was only finger tight. Turns out it was broken off right at the head. Now if Murphy only brought his easy out with him and a 90* drive for my drill I won't have to do a head swap too.
Steve
Steve
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Ive never tried any of those easy outs after all the stories Ive heard about them. I think about the only thing more annoying then having to drill out a bolt is having to so with a peice of metal stuck in it thats as hard as the drill bit itself. Sucks to hear it snapped off. Bad location, too.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Soak it good with penetrant, like overnight, with several applications. Try to back it out with a small punch or chisel and hammer.
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Car: 1985 Firebird
Engine: 327
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by five7kid
Soak it good with penetrant, like overnight, with several applications. Try to back it out with a small punch or chisel and hammer.
Soak it good with penetrant, like overnight, with several applications. Try to back it out with a small punch or chisel and hammer.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
or if you dont trust that, take it to a shop right away.
if you try to get it out and break off a easy out in it, most shops wont even look at it.
if you try to get it out and break off a easy out in it, most shops wont even look at it.
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by MrDude_1
if you try to get it out and break off a easy out in it, most shops wont even look at it.
if you try to get it out and break off a easy out in it, most shops wont even look at it.
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The bolt is broke off flush with the head not the manifold. Looks like I'll have to take the head off to get it out. Since this is on a lo3 I might just put on a set of lb9 heads off my 85 IROC. I just didn't want to go to all that trouble to put a set of headers and 3" exhaust on when I plan on putting my 350 in it when it's finished.
Steve
Steve
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The typical Catch 22.
The 416's and headers would make a good performance gain (the hassle of the different intake bolt angles notwithstanding). Or, put the manifolds back on and ignore the one broken off bolt until you can do the whole 350 thing.
The 416's and headers would make a good performance gain (the hassle of the different intake bolt angles notwithstanding). Or, put the manifolds back on and ignore the one broken off bolt until you can do the whole 350 thing.
Last edited by five7kid; 08-19-2004 at 12:09 PM.
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Ive run with the last bolt missing on the pass. side with my headers. They didnt leak. You could just install the headers without that bolt for the time being.
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Car: currently thirdgenless!!!
My passenger side rear is loose and it does leak. Man is that thing a pain in the but to tighten. Last time I did it from under the car.
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
call me an idiot, but couldnt you just chop off part of another bolt so that it has the head and part of the shaft (no point to it), then weld it to the broken off end and wrench it out? Or would that possibly weld it to your headers at the same time? Iunno, just throwin' out ideas.
#13
Soak it in WD40 or similar for a day or 3, drill a #25 hole in the center of the broken bolt and use a #3 easyout, it is quite large and much harder to break.
If you don't have a 90* drill, you could get a chuck for an air ratchet (if you have one) and use that (works great as a slow drill motor)
If you don't have a 90* drill, you could get a chuck for an air ratchet (if you have one) and use that (works great as a slow drill motor)
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Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: L98 w/ Stealthram
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Yeah, I prefer PB or Kroil. Kroil works better than anything I've ever seen. My uncle had a can of it, so I don't know where to buy it. I'll try a Google search in a minute.
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The bolt is actually about one thread down in the hole so I'm just going to take a cutoff wheel and cut a slot in the bolt. Then I might be able to use a flat head screwdriver to get it out.
Steve
Steve
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
Originally posted by steve8586iroc
I just didn't want to go to all that trouble to put a set of headers and 3" exhaust on when I plan on putting my 350 in it when it's finished.
Steve
I just didn't want to go to all that trouble to put a set of headers and 3" exhaust on when I plan on putting my 350 in it when it's finished.
Steve
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