Just wanted to share a pic of my recent install. I will provide part numbers and cost as soon as I sort my receipts. I can't take the credit though. It would not have come out like this without input from Base91 . I was inspired by his install which can be seen here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...ion-valve.html Let me know what you guys think. It will be a few more weeks until I find out if it will work.

 

Pic

 

Looks pretty good

I'm waiting to do my wilwood prop valve

 

Why did you keep the factory prop valve if you installed an adjustable one?

 

It was mainly so that I didn't have to touch the front brake lines like they do on the how to tech articles and to try and maintain the sensor operational in the valve. Here are the part numbers/price of the stuff I used.

From NAPA
Line fittings P/N 100X4 $1.09 I used 4
Line with fittings P/N 813-1220 $5.28 I used 2 but cut them to my need and reflared
ISO Bubble line with fittings P/N 813-5516 $7.22 I used 2 to avoid getting another type of flare kit. I cut these 20" lines in half and put on the fittings from the old proportioning valve. I was left with half a line.
Reducer fitting P/N 7828 8.40 I used 2 of these on the Wilwood valve.

From Oreilly
T-fittings P/N 130444 $4.95 I used 2
Flaring tool W80670 $18.99
Tube bender W704C $5.92
Tube cutter TU0110CB $7.12

I think this is all that I used. It's not very cost effective, but It met my goal. Now I just have to test its functionality. I will add that you need to take it easy with the brass fittings. This was the first time I did anything like this. Also plan ahead for your flares. Try and remember that you need sufficient space to use the flare tool with the fitting in the line do don't make your bends too close to the line ends.

Also just in case someone is looking for the 3/16 T-fitting I found it at Oreilly P/N 130333 for $6.19

 

Maybe I'm misinformed on how the factory prop valve works but it seems to me unless you gut the factory one (and in doing so, defeat the purpose of the sensor) you're only able to adjust down from the factory rear pressure? As in, the factory rear bias would be your adjustable's 100% open and you could only take away braking pressure from the rear?

 

Oh yeah your right. The way I plumbed it the adjustable valve has pressure directly from the master cylinder though. There are two T fittings. The first one splits the line coming out of the master. One line goes to the factory valve and the other goes to the second T fitting. On that second T fitting there are two pressure lines coming in (one pressure line from the master cylinder and another that is the reduced out put from the factory valve) and out of that T fitting will be the full pressure going out to the wildwood adjustable valve. So in theory it should still get the full pressure. Congrats by the way. Hopefully my car will look that nice someday.

 

something looks kinda redundant there... the adjustable one goes in the rear line after the factory prop valve- those T fittings seem to just totally bypass it altogether and make it into a $50 piece of useless bling with a few extra potential leakage points thrown in for good measure....

so it should be like this:

master cylinder---->factory prop valve---->adjustable prop valve---->rear brake line

you might need to gut the factory prop valve to make it work properly- it's just a matter of taking a big spring out and putting it back together..

 

It is really an easy job, don't overthink it. You do not need the brake pressure sensor or whatever it was for. The Fronts receive full pressure and are just T'd off. The rears get routed to the adjustable prop valve.

 

I think you missed that fact that he wanted to keep the brake failure indicator. While I don't necessarily agree with keeping the factory one, saying you do not need one may be a bit of an over generalization. I used an LS1 master cylinder with the fluid indicator built into the reservoir and it helped me at least once. And once is all I need to justify having it. I had a seeping connection halfway down the car that I didn't notice in my inspections and eventually lost enough fluid to trigger the light.

I'm still not sure this system functions like intended but it's at least an attempt, albeit convoluted, to retain a warning system.

 

the low level sensor in the later master cylinder will tell you when the fluid is low, but it won't tell you when a line suddenly decides to blow..

of course, if a line blows, the last thing you need is a light popping on in the dash distracting you after the pedal goes to the floor when a line blows just as you are trying to steer around that idiot that just pulled out in front of you..

 

at the risk of sounding snotty I will convey my opinion on the subject. That quote is around the lines of my thinking, if a line is punctured or split or torn the low level or pressure indicator will do you no good. I check fluids in my car religiously, once per week minimum. If I have a leak i want to know about it before it becomes an issue to where I have lost a pint of brake fluid. If I were to run over or hit something I am not going to just keep driving like some idiot. I pull over and have a thorough look. Small rodents aren't going to chew through a metal brake line or a stainless braided brake hose, so that's not an issue either. I know that none of my lines/hoses/connections are questionable from rust too, so I don't have to worry about that. Flame suit on.

 

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what is the purpose/ advantage of this install/upgrade?
im not being sarcastic, i really would like to know.
im in the process of installing 4th gen mc, big aftermarket calipers, 12bolt rear.
but im unsure what other brake control parts i need.
car was stock drum rear

 

The only real, confirmed purpose for switching is that the master cylinder and power booster form the fourth gen are a bit more compact. They are not as long and the master cylinder isn't as wide. Both items will bolt right up to the car and existing brake lines.

 

the oems design cars for the average stupid person- they make it so that the front brakes do something like 80% of the stopping of the car so that the rear brakes don't lock up and slide all over under hard braking (like when a deer jumps out in front of you or some idiot with a hamburger stuffed in his mouth and a cell phone in his free hand pulls out in front of you).

the purpose of an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line is to allow you to put as much pressure to the rear brakes as you can so the rear brakes do their share of the work of stopping the car, but not so much that the rears lock up before the fronts and cause the car to become unpredictable.

i used to have a 71 Nova that i upgraded to C4 front disc brakes, but kept the stock rear drums. i also ditched the brake booster and ran the brakes with a manual master cylinder for a 77 Chevelle with manual brakes. i had a Wilwood adjustable prop valve in the rear lines.. when i first started driving the car with the new brakes, it stopped like crap and the rear wanted to slide all over the place under hard braking... with a little tweaking of the valve, i was able to get it to the point where the whole car would just squat down and flat out stop without any drama or extra work on my part... it was honestly like driving a new car with a good ABS system..it made the car much easier- and more fun- to drive safely.