Tuning with the EBL
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Car: Corvette
Engine: 388 HSR custom Cam see sig
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: D44 3:45
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Did two WOT datalogs tonight. I noticed that EBL is not reading my speedometer correctly. Speedo will was saying 95 and EBL read it as 40..
I use a Vetteaid analog gauge cluster in place of my orginal LCD cluster. Does this really matter all that much?
thanks
I use a Vetteaid analog gauge cluster in place of my orginal LCD cluster. Does this really matter all that much?
thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, CO
Car: '89 'Bird
Engine: Low Output Three :-/
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Peg-leg 2.73
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have some quick questions: after installing the EBL into my 746 ECU and uploading the relevant BIN file ('89 auto TBI 305), I noticed that my engine no longer idles high for a few minues when starting cold like it did with the stock ECU. The BIN files that come on the CD are the same as stock right? I even tried the California-emissions file and it still won't idle high.
With that being said, I also noticed that my engine idles at roughly 600-700 RPMs when cold or warm, as opposed to a steady 550ish on the stock ECU. The IAC stays at 0 steps and can't bring the RPMs down into the proper range (550ish), so I suspected a vacuum leak. I spent a while hunting for it only to find out that the problem goes away when I switch back to the stock ECU.
Any ideas on what's causing my odd idle issues? Only thing I can think of is that I used a 747 CALPAK in my 746 EBL'd ECU, but the CALPAK is only used in limp-home mode right?
I'd like to get my car running just like stock before I start fiddling with the various tables and settings, but then again maybe I'm approaching this the wrong way.
With that being said, I also noticed that my engine idles at roughly 600-700 RPMs when cold or warm, as opposed to a steady 550ish on the stock ECU. The IAC stays at 0 steps and can't bring the RPMs down into the proper range (550ish), so I suspected a vacuum leak. I spent a while hunting for it only to find out that the problem goes away when I switch back to the stock ECU.
Any ideas on what's causing my odd idle issues? Only thing I can think of is that I used a 747 CALPAK in my 746 EBL'd ECU, but the CALPAK is only used in limp-home mode right?
I'd like to get my car running just like stock before I start fiddling with the various tables and settings, but then again maybe I'm approaching this the wrong way.
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Northern NY
Car: 91rs,00outback,02f150screw rip wrx
Engine: lo3, 2.5,330ci
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have some quick questions: after installing the EBL into my 746 ECU and uploading the relevant BIN file ('89 auto TBI 305), I noticed that my engine no longer idles high for a few minues when starting cold like it did with the stock ECU. The BIN files that come on the CD are the same as stock right? I even tried the California-emissions file and it still won't idle high.
With that being said, I also noticed that my engine idles at roughly 600-700 RPMs when cold or warm, as opposed to a steady 550ish on the stock ECU. The IAC stays at 0 steps and can't bring the RPMs down into the proper range (550ish), so I suspected a vacuum leak. I spent a while hunting for it only to find out that the problem goes away when I switch back to the stock ECU.
Any ideas on what's causing my odd idle issues? Only thing I can think of is that I used a 747 CALPAK in my 746 EBL'd ECU, but the CALPAK is only used in limp-home mode right?
I'd like to get my car running just like stock before I start fiddling with the various tables and settings, but then again maybe I'm approaching this the wrong way.
With that being said, I also noticed that my engine idles at roughly 600-700 RPMs when cold or warm, as opposed to a steady 550ish on the stock ECU. The IAC stays at 0 steps and can't bring the RPMs down into the proper range (550ish), so I suspected a vacuum leak. I spent a while hunting for it only to find out that the problem goes away when I switch back to the stock ECU.
Any ideas on what's causing my odd idle issues? Only thing I can think of is that I used a 747 CALPAK in my 746 EBL'd ECU, but the CALPAK is only used in limp-home mode right?
I'd like to get my car running just like stock before I start fiddling with the various tables and settings, but then again maybe I'm approaching this the wrong way.
I'm not completely knowledgeable on this as I am learning also so maybe someone can chime in and give a more knowledgeable answer and explain why.
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I noticed the fast idle thing too, but then I can't really see any reason that my engine should be idling at 1000 RPM when it's 80 degrees out. Not slamming my trans into gear at high RPM is probably a good thing. If it really is cold out, the EBL should run at higher RPM for a while as indicated in the table.
I guess one reason I can think of for the high RPM is just as a catch-all to keep it running before it goes closed loop right after startup. But mine's been working fine this way, and revving the engine seems like a patch for a bad tune.
I guess one reason I can think of for the high RPM is just as a catch-all to keep it running before it goes closed loop right after startup. But mine's been working fine this way, and revving the engine seems like a patch for a bad tune.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 0
From: OC CA
Car: 75 Beast
Engine: 383 +EBL Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11 with 33"
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Further to Ronnies point IAC reset procedure is posted in Tech article area
https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2
To enter CL several qualifiers must be met. One of them is O2 temperature - it must above 600F to function correctly which these early ECM can not monitor. Originally third gen's came with a single wire O2's (no heater) with O2 operating temperature being dependent on the exhaust manifold temperature. It takes about 2min or there about's of engine run time (running rich mixture during start up) to bring that chunk of CI to 600F! Heated O2 (three wire) can heat-up and ready to go within 30 sec.
//RF
https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2
To enter CL several qualifiers must be met. One of them is O2 temperature - it must above 600F to function correctly which these early ECM can not monitor. Originally third gen's came with a single wire O2's (no heater) with O2 operating temperature being dependent on the exhaust manifold temperature. It takes about 2min or there about's of engine run time (running rich mixture during start up) to bring that chunk of CI to 600F! Heated O2 (three wire) can heat-up and ready to go within 30 sec.
//RF
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Change the "VSS - Pulse Per Mile" until the ECM is correct. I recall a discussion about that dash from a while ago. Isn't it supposed to be a direct replacement? Or, is the real issue is that you can see the ECMs MPH reading while others that used this dash can't!
RBob.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
If it gets stupid ( maxing out in short order ) EBL is smart enough to recognize a defective sensor and ignore it, leaving you with no protection against detonation.
One thing at a time, and first things first.
Re: Tuning with the EBL
800 rpms is likely the mechanical noise vibration of starter setting off the KS. I get same. I cant see any load at 800 rpms as engine would die. I suspect your crank SA is not radical.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 9
From: VA
Car: 88 camaro irocz
Engine: l98 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Tuning with the EBL
do you have an exhaust rattle ? that will cause crazy knock count at idle . i 'm going thru that right now .
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 932
Likes: 95
From: Marion, IL
Car: 86 Trans Am/85 K5 Jimmy
Engine: 406 FIRST/350 TPI
Transmission: TKO 600/700R4
Axle/Gears: 9Bolt/10Bolt front & back
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I was wondering if it could be something in my tune causing my throttle to be super touchy off idle. It makes it kindve difficult to drive through town with the stop/go traffic with it being a manual. I dont wanna burn my clutch up either. It just seems like the second my foot starts moving the pedal it jumps up to 2000+rpms.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I was wondering if it could be something in my tune causing my throttle to be super touchy off idle. It makes it kindve difficult to drive through town with the stop/go traffic with it being a manual. I dont wanna burn my clutch up either. It just seems like the second my foot starts moving the pedal it jumps up to 2000+rpms.
Check the idle SA, then what the SA is at right off idle. It may be too much right off idle which adds a bunch of power.
The IAC throttle follower (TF) is also something to look at. This is the IAC retracting as the TPS% increases.
AE can also affect the off idle response.
RBob.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 676
Likes: 1
From: Pacific NW
Car: 89 K3500 Fleetside
Engine: RAT *tbi* EBL
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 3.73-Dana 60
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I was wondering if it could be something in my tune causing my throttle to be super touchy off idle. It makes it kindve difficult to drive through town with the stop/go traffic with it being a manual. I dont wanna burn my clutch up either. It just seems like the second my foot starts moving the pedal it jumps up to 2000+rpms.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 952
Likes: 2
From: Austria
Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a question concerning the IAT/CTS blending thing. I'm using a "High-Output style" air cleaner lid to intake cold air from my Formula cowl hood. I was on the highway this Monday doing some tuning and I found that the IAT would consistently read in the range of ambient temperatures (well, about 20% more at max). I saw the IAT/CTS blending table has the rows given in Gms/sec, but since I'm not a MAF guy I have no idea what these values relate too. So I'm a bit lost here how I would go about properly integrating the CAI/CIH in the EBL tune.
Can anyone shed some light on this for me or have other inputs?
Thanks!
Can anyone shed some light on this for me or have other inputs?
Thanks! Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a question concerning the IAT/CTS blending thing. I'm using a "High-Output style" air cleaner lid to intake cold air from my Formula cowl hood. I was on the highway this Monday doing some tuning and I found that the IAT would consistently read in the range of ambient temperatures (well, about 20% more at max). I saw the IAT/CTS blending table has the rows given in Gms/sec, but since I'm not a MAF guy I have no idea what these values relate too. So I'm a bit lost here how I would go about properly integrating the CAI/CIH in the EBL tune.
Can anyone shed some light on this for me or have other inputs?
Thanks!
Can anyone shed some light on this for me or have other inputs?
Thanks!RBob.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 952
Likes: 2
From: Austria
Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Ah, i must've missed that one. Thanks! Not sure how to deal with the tuning though since it throws off my learns quite a bit.. Any idea how to handle this?
Re: Tuning with the EBL
It just seems like the second my foot starts moving the pedal it jumps up to 2000+rpms.
Did you change the TB or the linkage to TB. How does it raise RPM out of gear with same throttle movement?
Could it be clutch slippage? How does it react in second gear?
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Car: Corvette
Engine: 388 HSR custom Cam see sig
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: D44 3:45
Re: Tuning with the EBL
It should be corrected as the ECM uses the VSS for a bunch of stuff.
Change the "VSS - Pulse Per Mile" until the ECM is correct. I recall a discussion about that dash from a while ago. Isn't it supposed to be a direct replacement? Or, is the real issue is that you can see the ECMs MPH reading while others that used this dash can't!
RBob.
Change the "VSS - Pulse Per Mile" until the ECM is correct. I recall a discussion about that dash from a while ago. Isn't it supposed to be a direct replacement? Or, is the real issue is that you can see the ECMs MPH reading while others that used this dash can't!
RBob.
When I got it back from him this last time a couple of months ago he had added in this box where I can change the pulses to match with the ECM. I had assumed since this time around the car was running fine it was good to go. The car has been running great an the tune now is given me a final AFR between 14 and 15.. Blms are running 123 to 134. So I'm a happy camper
I'll give him a call and find out about tweaking the pulses using that box.
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Northern NY
Car: 91rs,00outback,02f150screw rip wrx
Engine: lo3, 2.5,330ci
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I would not assume it's false until I had proof, though it probably is, based on your description.
If it gets stupid ( maxing out in short order ) EBL is smart enough to recognize a defective sensor and ignore it, leaving you with no protection against detonation.
One thing at a time, and first things first.
If it gets stupid ( maxing out in short order ) EBL is smart enough to recognize a defective sensor and ignore it, leaving you with no protection against detonation.
One thing at a time, and first things first.
Ok, I went back and looked at my Datalog and noticed the PE light comes on shortly before spark knock, in most cases what does this mean?
Last edited by 91rscammie; May 23, 2012 at 11:07 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL

How ever I have a couple areas under load where I'm getting spark knocks. It seams the faster I step on the throttle the more I get in the one area. I have retarded the timing a degree in the area of spark knock with no result, and it seems as though when retarding it other cells around it that didn't have knock counts now do.
Spark advance is almost as much art as science, absent elaborate in-cylinder pressure measuring techniques not available to the vast majority of us.
Once you're "in the zone" 4 degrees difference would make about 1% change in performance. If performance changes more than that, you're close, but not "in the zone" so to speak.
If performance changes less than that, or not at all, you had too much advance at that point.
For me, I would retard the cell showing knock 3 degrees, the cells immediately adjacent 2 degrees, and the cells adjacent to those 1 degree, absent solid evidence otherwise.
Audible detonation, that you can actually hear, is getting pretty severe.
Should I be advancing timing or changing the ones around it also. Or should I be adjusting something else also? Don't know much about this SA.
One, retard spark. ( this is the only tool the ECM has )
Two, higher octane fuel until you resolve the issue.
The target is the LEAST amount of advance you can get away with that does not adversely affect performance and economy.
Ok, I went back and looked at my Datalog and noticed the PE light comes on shortly before spark knock, in most cases what does this mean?
Detonation, so-called spark knock, ( literally an explosion ) is caused by heat and pressure. It *causes* extreme heat and pressure, making itself worse, and can destroy internal parts relatively fast. The most common symptom and damage, is a broken top ring. ( which obviously requires a tear down to find )
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Northern NY
Car: 91rs,00outback,02f150screw rip wrx
Engine: lo3, 2.5,330ci
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Tuning with the EBL
If you've got detonation, you have only two tools to fight it immediately.
One, retard spark. ( this is the only tool the ECM has )
Two, higher octane fuel until you resolve the issue.
The target is the LEAST amount of advance you can get away with that does not adversely affect performance and economy.
One, retard spark. ( this is the only tool the ECM has )
Two, higher octane fuel until you resolve the issue.
The target is the LEAST amount of advance you can get away with that does not adversely affect performance and economy.
Last edited by 91rscammie; May 24, 2012 at 06:29 PM.
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
Car: 1987 Trans am GTA
Engine: D1sc 383
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a question regarding VE saturation. My VE table is maxing out in a small area around my peak torque, so i need to change my injector size constant. I am considering a 5% reduction to start , so my 42's will read 40lbs. Is this a substantial enough as a start, or should I reduce it further?
Now, in changing the theoretical injector size by 5%. Do I make the same correction change to my entire VE table?
thx for the help
Now, in changing the theoretical injector size by 5%. Do I make the same correction change to my entire VE table?
thx for the help
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a question regarding VE saturation. My VE table is maxing out in a small area around my peak torque, so i need to change my injector size constant. I am considering a 5% reduction to start , so my 42's will read 40lbs. Is this a substantial enough as a start, or should I reduce it further?
Now, in changing the theoretical injector size by 5%. Do I make the same correction change to my entire VE table?
thx for the help
Now, in changing the theoretical injector size by 5%. Do I make the same correction change to my entire VE table?
thx for the help
It's not recommended to run the injectors above 80% or 85%. I've pushed to 92% but do so knowing full well that injectors become more and more erratic above about 80%, to an almost total loss of control ( static ) around 95%. ( and the reverse is true at very low numbers as well )
Remember, the injectors need some time to open, and close. Neither happens instantaneously, and that time becomes more and more precious the higher RPM, and so the less time available for all three periods.
Time to open. ( fixed, not controllable )
Time to close ( also fixed, not controllable )
Duration at full open. ( the one we can control )
In any case, if you're going to scale something down, you'll need to scale the entire VE table to match, in order to stay where you are in the areas that are currently OK.
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
Car: 1987 Trans am GTA
Engine: D1sc 383
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I'm not sure whether you want to change the injector size, or the BPC, but what's "maxing out" ? 100% ?
It's not recommended to run the injectors above 80% or 85%. I've pushed to 92% but do so knowing full well that injectors become more and more erratic above about 80%, to an almost total loss of control ( static ) around 95%. ( and the reverse is true at very low numbers as well )
Remember, the injectors need some time to open, and close. Neither happens instantaneously, and that time becomes more and more precious the higher RPM, and so the less time available for all three periods.
Time to open. ( fixed, not controllable )
Time to close ( also fixed, not controllable )
Duration at full open. ( the one we can control )
In any case, if you're going to scale something down, you'll need to scale the entire VE table to match, in order to stay where you are in the areas that are currently OK.
It's not recommended to run the injectors above 80% or 85%. I've pushed to 92% but do so knowing full well that injectors become more and more erratic above about 80%, to an almost total loss of control ( static ) around 95%. ( and the reverse is true at very low numbers as well )
Remember, the injectors need some time to open, and close. Neither happens instantaneously, and that time becomes more and more precious the higher RPM, and so the less time available for all three periods.
Time to open. ( fixed, not controllable )
Time to close ( also fixed, not controllable )
Duration at full open. ( the one we can control )
In any case, if you're going to scale something down, you'll need to scale the entire VE table to match, in order to stay where you are in the areas that are currently OK.
I read further back in this thread about using injector flow rate to scale down the VE tables when they hit the ceiling. My injectors are not maxed so to speak, they are capable of much then my combo requires, I over sized them for future mods. Can I say they are theoretically maxed? If I set the injectors back, do I scale the good areas of the table by the same amount?
Last edited by gbayfisher; May 25, 2012 at 11:20 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
IMy injectors are not maxed so to speak, they are capable of much more then my combo requires, I oversized them for future mods. Can I say they are theorectally maxed via the Ve tables? And if I scale the injectors back, do I scale the good areas of the table by the same amount?
Yes, scale the whole table by the same percentage per cell.
( TunerPro has a function that will do the whole table by the same scale factor for you )
Ergo cells that are now 100% make them 80.
Cells that are 50 would become 40.
Cells that are now 40 would become 32.
Cells that are 10 would become 8.
Although I'm thinking you want to tell the EBL that the injectors are bigger, not smaller !
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
Car: 1987 Trans am GTA
Engine: D1sc 383
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Tuning with the EBL
AH, OK.
Yes, scale the whole table by the same percentage per cell.
( TunerPro has a function that will do the whole table by the same scale factor for you )
Ergo cells that are now 100% make them 80.
Cells that are 50 would become 40.
Cells that are now 40 would become 32.
Cells that are 10 would become 8.
Although I'm thinking you want to tell the EBL that the injectors are bigger, not smaller !
Yes, scale the whole table by the same percentage per cell.
( TunerPro has a function that will do the whole table by the same scale factor for you )
Ergo cells that are now 100% make them 80.
Cells that are 50 would become 40.
Cells that are now 40 would become 32.
Cells that are 10 would become 8.
Although I'm thinking you want to tell the EBL that the injectors are bigger, not smaller !
Got you on the tunerpro function, but do you think 5-10% would be an okay start for me? I barely hitting the ceiling in the tables.
You are showing me 25 % change, not sure if it was typo or miss understanding.
thx for the help.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
Car: 87 Suburban 2500
Engine: 455 Wildcat ( somewhat modified ))
Transmission: TH400 ( for now )
Axle/Gears: 4.10 ( for now )
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Got you on the tunerpro function, but do you think 5-10% would be an okay start for me? I barely hitting the ceiling in the tables.
You are showing me 25 % change, not sure if it was typo or miss understanding.
thx for the help.
thx for the help.
You've not told us what you mean by "ceiling" so I merely used numbers as an example.
If you're hitting 100% VE, then you likely want 20%.
If by "ceiling" you mean 85%, then 5% may be enough.
If you're topping out the VE table ( I'm still not clear ) but you physically still have fuel available, then the EBL needs to know that it can increase flow. You tell it you have bigger injectors, and then reduce the VE table to maintain AFR in those cells.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
You may have been thinking of BPC, which is the opposite.
RBob.
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Northern NY
Car: 91rs,00outback,02f150screw rip wrx
Engine: lo3, 2.5,330ci
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Telling the ECM that the injectors are smaller causes it to command a higher PW for the same (allegedly) volume of fuel. This provides more head room in the VE table by lowering it to actually provide the same volume of fuel.
You may have been thinking of BPC, which is the opposite.
RBob.
You may have been thinking of BPC, which is the opposite.
RBob.
Where exactly do you change the size of the injectors. I have bigger, and all I did was change the BPC. Where else exactly do I change for this?
Also I seem to be chasing my tail so to speak on spark knocks, I have retarded the timing with little effect. They happen at 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. Is it likely that these need to be zero'd all the way out. I think it may be false is there a way to tell for sure? I believe it may as this area that has been retarded has a big inverted spike now on the VE table, and still showing spark knocks
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Where exactly do you change the size of the injectors. I have bigger, and all I did was change the BPC. Where else exactly do I change for this?
Also I seem to be chasing my tail so to speak on spark knocks, I have retarded the timing with little effect. They happen at 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. Is it likely that these need to be zero'd all the way out. I think it may be false is there a way to tell for sure? I believe it may as this area that has been retarded has a big inverted spike now on the VE table, and still showing spark knocks
Also I seem to be chasing my tail so to speak on spark knocks, I have retarded the timing with little effect. They happen at 1600rpm to 3600rpm from 80 to 100KPa. Is it likely that these need to be zero'd all the way out. I think it may be false is there a way to tell for sure? I believe it may as this area that has been retarded has a big inverted spike now on the VE table, and still showing spark knocks
If pulling timing doesn't affect the knock counts, it is likely false knock. Best to fix it as it hurts performance and mileage.
RBob.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 1989 Corvette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.33
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Hello guys, EBL noob hear.
First of all, I have to say I really like the ebl, my engine has never ran better, mild 383 with tpi, headers. I have performed several learns and have the fueling in pretty good shape up to 3500 rpm. My problem lies with tip-in, with just a small amont of pedal, the engine falls flat. From the datalog it will be idling at 850 rpm and give it just 6% tps, and the rpm will fall to 350 before it recovers. I read a couple of previous posts and have tinkered with AE, but no change. The confusing thing is that aePW in the datalog remains at 0.00 where aPW changes from 0.0 to 1.9, is this correct? AE is shown as Y, and indicated on the dash during playback. It is like I am getting AE, but no additional fueling occurs. However, when driving above idle speeds, driveability is excellent.
First of all, I have to say I really like the ebl, my engine has never ran better, mild 383 with tpi, headers. I have performed several learns and have the fueling in pretty good shape up to 3500 rpm. My problem lies with tip-in, with just a small amont of pedal, the engine falls flat. From the datalog it will be idling at 850 rpm and give it just 6% tps, and the rpm will fall to 350 before it recovers. I read a couple of previous posts and have tinkered with AE, but no change. The confusing thing is that aePW in the datalog remains at 0.00 where aPW changes from 0.0 to 1.9, is this correct? AE is shown as Y, and indicated on the dash during playback. It is like I am getting AE, but no additional fueling occurs. However, when driving above idle speeds, driveability is excellent.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL

Also check to see what the INT does. If it rises rapidly that is from no enough AE. And the opposite. But be sure to check and correct the SA first.
I read a couple of previous posts and have tinkered with AE, but no change. The confusing thing is that aePW in the datalog remains at 0.00 where aPW changes from 0.0 to 1.9, is this correct? AE is shown as Y, and indicated on the dash during playback. It is like I am getting AE, but no additional fueling occurs. However, when driving above idle speeds, driveability is excellent.
aPW: on a port set up this is the delta TPS AE.
Although, need to be careful, as V2.0 of the EBL Flash ECM firmware can go async on small PW's. Which will show up here. While V2.2 of the EBL Flash firmware will go single-fire on small PWs and remain in sync injection mode.
Yes, I know, confusing. But can't make the ECM firmware better unless this occurs.
RBob.
P.S. the newer versions of the WUD (from V2.2d+) show the ECM firmware version at the bottom of the main WUD display once the engine has been running for 10 seconds or more.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 952
Likes: 2
From: Austria
Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I was looking through the Part2 Introduction To Tuning on the website for more info on the injector correction offset / compensation and following question popped up.
Comparing the stock L03 cal (2016 BIN, left) and the mentioned 5.4l cal (3001 BIN, right) gets me the following tables:

... they're rather different since the 2016 table has a lot more gradual data and the 3001 seems more 'consistent' in a way, like the values are all more or less in the ballpark whereas the values of 2016 vary a lot with voltage.
So i find myself a bit confused as to what values i'd set for 305 injectors @ 15 psi FP...? Also i'm not sure what the inj corr offset multiplier table is for, but maybe this is a separate table for, as it says, TBI only.
In general terms the higher the fuel pressure the longer it takes for an injector to open. Increased fuel pressures are more prevalent on TBI systems. And as such should have the injector compensation values increased. Check the 5.4l calibration with the 80# injectors at 22 psi. Compare those values with some stock calibrations. That will give an idea of what values can be used.

... they're rather different since the 2016 table has a lot more gradual data and the 3001 seems more 'consistent' in a way, like the values are all more or less in the ballpark whereas the values of 2016 vary a lot with voltage.
So i find myself a bit confused as to what values i'd set for 305 injectors @ 15 psi FP...? Also i'm not sure what the inj corr offset multiplier table is for, but maybe this is a separate table for, as it says, TBI only.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
The reason the table values is rather flat is due to lack of data at the other voltages. It took quite a bit of time to get that data. The voltages below 12.8 were derived from driving with the alternator disconnected.
Around 14.4 volts were with an adjustable P/S and a signal generator, using the fuel system and TBI unit on the car as a test set up.
The "INJ - Injector Correction Multiplier - TBI Only" table makes up for the time it takes to fully open the injector. The offset values are for when the injector just starts to open.
From what I can tell TBI injectors get sluggish with lower voltages and/or higher fuel pressures. It takes more time to go from starting to open (fuel starts to flow) to fully open.
What started me on this area of the calibration was the shape of the VE table. At lower loads the VE started to increase to get the proper volume of fuel. So something else was not correct in the calibration, which turned out to be the injector compensations.
RBob.
Around 14.4 volts were with an adjustable P/S and a signal generator, using the fuel system and TBI unit on the car as a test set up.
The "INJ - Injector Correction Multiplier - TBI Only" table makes up for the time it takes to fully open the injector. The offset values are for when the injector just starts to open.
From what I can tell TBI injectors get sluggish with lower voltages and/or higher fuel pressures. It takes more time to go from starting to open (fuel starts to flow) to fully open.
What started me on this area of the calibration was the shape of the VE table. At lower loads the VE started to increase to get the proper volume of fuel. So something else was not correct in the calibration, which turned out to be the injector compensations.
RBob.
Member

Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: California
Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 355 TBI
Transmission: 7004R
Axle/Gears: 3.27/42 ?
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Depends on the editor you use.
I use TunerPro. In TunerPro, you can scale, add, multiply, individual cells, or ranges of cells, or the whole table.
Pay attention to that.
Some combinations of engine parts, fuel blend, weather, won't "knock" per se.
If it appears to be getting rough, it's possible you have too much advance, so the engine is attempting to run backwards, resulting in running rough.
90-100 MAP is typically WOT.
Also typically, at WOT detonation, too much advance, running rough, is much, much less detectable. There are only three ways I know, to know if it's "right" at WOT.
One is in cylinder pressure measurements. Probably, you don't have the equipment to do that.
Another, is top end MPH. NOT acceleration ! ( the butt-o-meter lies ! )
More power doesn't feel fast, but the ET shows that it is.
The third is MPG, which is difficult to measure for specific narrow conditions. ( and doesn't necessarily tell you the whole story anyway )
At anything less than WOT, less throttle for the same or better performance, suggests an improvement.
As above, without accurate time tickets, you won't know for sure, and too much advance doesn't necessarily result in knock, though it might.
What are you trying to achieve ?
A fast car, or best MPG, or ???
The WUD analysis screen can show you things from a log that you just can't see while you're driving.
If you're turning 6000 RPM at 140 MPH WOT and the log shows knock retard, then you know something. If the log shows lower engine temperature, you know something. If the log shows nothing, then you don't know anything, and make a best guess.
If the 1/4 mile analysis shows faster, then you know something. If the 60 foot shows slower, then you know something there.
If you've already achieved what you set out to do, then you do nothing in that range.
If your tune is far off, 2 degrees should show a noteable ( but not dramatic ) difference.
If you're close, it may show nothing.
Back in my pro-gas days, ( carburettors and crank triggers ) we would pull 3 degrees less advance above 6000 at WOT, and the only indication we had that we were doing the right thing, was higher MPH at the big end of the track. The change in ET was so small we couldn't tell anything from that, until several runs said the car was indeed faster. ( and we broke bracket )
You also should know something about combustion dynamics, where your heat sensors are, etc.
Late timing puts heat into exhaust ports, and may show burning on the headers. ( and cold spark plugs )
Early timing puts heat into cylinder heads and piston tops, but shows cooler exhaust. ( and may show hot spark plugs )
Of course, it could be the fuel blend on that particular tank, or the outside air temperature on that particular day.
If you're looking for an easy answer, there isn't one.
I use TunerPro. In TunerPro, you can scale, add, multiply, individual cells, or ranges of cells, or the whole table.
Pay attention to that.
Some combinations of engine parts, fuel blend, weather, won't "knock" per se.
If it appears to be getting rough, it's possible you have too much advance, so the engine is attempting to run backwards, resulting in running rough.
90-100 MAP is typically WOT.
Also typically, at WOT detonation, too much advance, running rough, is much, much less detectable. There are only three ways I know, to know if it's "right" at WOT.
One is in cylinder pressure measurements. Probably, you don't have the equipment to do that.
Another, is top end MPH. NOT acceleration ! ( the butt-o-meter lies ! )
More power doesn't feel fast, but the ET shows that it is.
The third is MPG, which is difficult to measure for specific narrow conditions. ( and doesn't necessarily tell you the whole story anyway )
At anything less than WOT, less throttle for the same or better performance, suggests an improvement.
As above, without accurate time tickets, you won't know for sure, and too much advance doesn't necessarily result in knock, though it might.
What are you trying to achieve ?
A fast car, or best MPG, or ???
The WUD analysis screen can show you things from a log that you just can't see while you're driving.
If you're turning 6000 RPM at 140 MPH WOT and the log shows knock retard, then you know something. If the log shows lower engine temperature, you know something. If the log shows nothing, then you don't know anything, and make a best guess.
If the 1/4 mile analysis shows faster, then you know something. If the 60 foot shows slower, then you know something there.
If you've already achieved what you set out to do, then you do nothing in that range.
If your tune is far off, 2 degrees should show a noteable ( but not dramatic ) difference.
If you're close, it may show nothing.
Back in my pro-gas days, ( carburettors and crank triggers ) we would pull 3 degrees less advance above 6000 at WOT, and the only indication we had that we were doing the right thing, was higher MPH at the big end of the track. The change in ET was so small we couldn't tell anything from that, until several runs said the car was indeed faster. ( and we broke bracket )
You also should know something about combustion dynamics, where your heat sensors are, etc.
Late timing puts heat into exhaust ports, and may show burning on the headers. ( and cold spark plugs )
Early timing puts heat into cylinder heads and piston tops, but shows cooler exhaust. ( and may show hot spark plugs )
Of course, it could be the fuel blend on that particular tank, or the outside air temperature on that particular day.
If you're looking for an easy answer, there isn't one.
I know its been a while although summer is here and I have started to make my first spark adjustments and starting to get a lil more feel for things. I now have a few more updates and questions.
First off I want to provide my setup and what I am attempting to achieve.
Engine:
355 SBC with BBC TBI, edelbrock Performer intake, 1.6 roller rockers, ProComp Al. 190cc heads 9.8 comp., compcam 254/264, .477/.471, AC delco 3/4" spark plugs, Aluminum flat top 5cc 9.8 comp., Steel Crank, EdelbrockTES headers 1 5/8 - 3" exhaust, stock 700R4, Posi. 3.42 gears
Tune:
EBL Flash / TT1 WB Right before cat.
Initial SA: 6d
Max SA: 31d
BPC: 113
FP/injectors: 80lbs at 18psi on 2" tb bores
Lean/Mean/Rich INT O2: 451/473/495
What I am attempting to achieve is an overall good driving car, I want my low end cruising speeds to be gas savers and I want my WOT runs to bring the most out of the engine. The car is basically used for all around dd fun/weekend racing. Overall my goal was to get about 400 hp/tq out of my engine from when I decided to build it.
Now for my questions:
PE-AFR Commanded
Open Loop - AFR vs RPM & VAC
I noticed the values in these tables are in WB values. The NB sensor is what these cars came with so im wondering how does the ECM know how to get the AFR set in these tables ? Does it convert the NB values to these values ? or are they only used when a WB is in place?
As far as the adjustments I have made, I am removing some spark in the lower RPM areas as it seems as the engine is rough before shifting when driving normally... the spark goes all the way up to 33d before shifting which makes the engine sound/feel like too much.
Secondly, I began removing some spark in about the 4400 RPM WOT areas as I am getting some knock counts there.
After my first spark removal of about 3d in the areas near 4400, I tested again and the knocks were greatly reduced.
Then Removed another degree in area and the knocks were almost gone and I left it there.
Then tested again a few hours later and a whole bunch of knock counts came back ??? :/ Could this be an indicator of false knock?
Lastly, I was wondering what could be causing a really rich section durring take off that my WB is seeing.
Here is a data log of the take off, I have many more logs of my WOT runs as well.
I have yet to started recording times as far as 1/4 times go but once I take care of my knock counts I will start looking into improvements when adjusting spark in my 1/4 and maybe 60-100 times, etc. I feel as though I would be better off recording times starting from a roll as that would eliminate any take off variances? Then once that is taken care of, start making changes to improve my 60ft times, etc?
Thanks all!
Last edited by Napster134; May 30, 2012 at 10:12 PM.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 952
Likes: 2
From: Austria
Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
RBob, got your points, thanks. Makes sense! Some more questions though 
I think if it would have been me trying to come up with new data for that, I would have measured the points that can easily be done (say 12.8 and 14.4 volts) and adjust the rest of the values in accordance to that and the stock table data though? 
For TBI, is there a lot of difference in opening and closing times between the injector sizes as well, or is fuel pressure the most influencing parameter here? Just wondering..
So when using PFI, the injectors would likely be faster to go from "starting to open" state to fully open, and therefore would be compensated for most part by the correction offset, therefore no multiplier table is implemented for PFI?
Thanks again.
edit:
After looking again at the offset table of the 3001 cal: I guess the most important data points are 12.8 to 14.4 for normal running conditions, along with maybe 8.0-ish for cranking conditions?
edit2:
... wouldn't that above quote indicate that the multiplier table's adjustment is of higher priority, instead of the offset table (under the assumption that the time the inj starts to open is rather constant)?

The reason the table values is rather flat is due to lack of data at the other voltages. It took quite a bit of time to get that data. The voltages below 12.8 were derived from driving with the alternator disconnected.
Around 14.4 volts were with an adjustable P/S and a signal generator, using the fuel system and TBI unit on the car as a test set up.
Around 14.4 volts were with an adjustable P/S and a signal generator, using the fuel system and TBI unit on the car as a test set up.

For TBI, is there a lot of difference in opening and closing times between the injector sizes as well, or is fuel pressure the most influencing parameter here? Just wondering..
Thanks again.
edit:
After looking again at the offset table of the 3001 cal: I guess the most important data points are 12.8 to 14.4 for normal running conditions, along with maybe 8.0-ish for cranking conditions?
edit2:
The "INJ - Injector Correction Multiplier - TBI Only" table makes up for the time it takes to fully open the injector. The offset values are for when the injector just starts to open.
From what I can tell TBI injectors get sluggish with lower voltages and/or higher fuel pressures. It takes more time to go from starting to open (fuel starts to flow) to fully open.
From what I can tell TBI injectors get sluggish with lower voltages and/or higher fuel pressures. It takes more time to go from starting to open (fuel starts to flow) to fully open.
Last edited by ownor; May 31, 2012 at 07:06 AM.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 952
Likes: 2
From: Austria
Car: 84 TA / 89 Formula
Engine: LS1 / L03
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 / 3.27
Re: Tuning with the EBL
PE-AFR Commanded
Open Loop - AFR vs RPM & VAC
I noticed the values in these tables are in WB values. The NB sensor is what these cars came with so im wondering how does the ECM know how to get the AFR set in these tables ? Does it convert the NB values to these values ? or are they only used when a WB is in place?
[...]
Then tested again a few hours later and a whole bunch of knock counts came back ??? :/ Could this be an indicator of false knock?
Open Loop - AFR vs RPM & VAC
I noticed the values in these tables are in WB values. The NB sensor is what these cars came with so im wondering how does the ECM know how to get the AFR set in these tables ? Does it convert the NB values to these values ? or are they only used when a WB is in place?
[...]
Then tested again a few hours later and a whole bunch of knock counts came back ??? :/ Could this be an indicator of false knock?
Therefore, OL/PE needs to be tuned with a WBO2. For the EBL, when doing WBO2 VE learns, VEL will compare the internally calculated commanded OL AFR to the WBO2 readings. BLM VEL can only be done in closed loop since it's using the NBO2 readings, which requires an AFR of around the stoichiometric 14.7 to make sense.
That's the way i understood it, anyways
HTHOn the knock counts, I'm curious about the input you get here as I've sometimes experienced similar scenarios myself. Could imho be related to a variation in temperature (CTS, IAT, ambient) but also humidity, barometric pressure/altitude, etc... As said, I'm curious
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
RBob.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
The "SA - Maximum SA" and "SA - Maximum SA Retard" are defined by the distributor. They shouldn't be changed unless you go to a DIS system or such. It is the maximum values that can be programmed into the distributor without it cross firing.
> Lastly, I was wondering what could be causing a really rich section during take off
Too much AE. Can see the volume of AE as the last column of the screenshot you posted. Not sure which calibration you started with, but lets assume for this example it was a stock one.
> FP/injectors: 80lbs at 18psi
That is about 94#/hr of fuel. Stock 5.7l is about 61#/hr, dividing 61 by 94 gives us:
61 / 94 = 0.65
So to start off with the AE in the general ballpark, multiply both of the AE PW tables (MAP & TPS) by .65
RBob.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
RBob, got your points, thanks. Makes sense! Some more questions though 
I think if it would have been me trying to come up with new data for that, I would have measured the points that can easily be done (say 12.8 and 14.4 volts) and adjust the rest of the values in accordance to that and the stock table data though?

I think if it would have been me trying to come up with new data for that, I would have measured the points that can easily be done (say 12.8 and 14.4 volts) and adjust the rest of the values in accordance to that and the stock table data though?

Check the multiplier table in 3001 too. It has also been increased as the voltage drops.
RBob.
Re: Tuning with the EBL
Here is a data log of the take off, I have many more logs of my WOT runs as well.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Finland
Car: Caprice
Engine: L03, Trickflow heads, EBL
Transmission: TH200R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I want to say to RBob that your EBL is really great product!
My configuration is following; 305 L03 with TrickFlow superstreet heads, LT1 cam, 1.6 roller rockers and TBI which is bored to 46 mm with 9C1 injectors (68#/hour).
I am currently running with stock fuel pump and pressure. It was very easy to make car well drivable even with only NB O2 on it.
Now I am just wondering should I go for WB to be sure for WOT tunes or am I on safe side as long as engine doesn't knock and NB stays over 1000 mV on WOT runs?
Also, any ideas how much hp this could produce? At least in low RPM's torque is greatly improved over stock!
My configuration is following; 305 L03 with TrickFlow superstreet heads, LT1 cam, 1.6 roller rockers and TBI which is bored to 46 mm with 9C1 injectors (68#/hour).
I am currently running with stock fuel pump and pressure. It was very easy to make car well drivable even with only NB O2 on it.
Now I am just wondering should I go for WB to be sure for WOT tunes or am I on safe side as long as engine doesn't knock and NB stays over 1000 mV on WOT runs?
Also, any ideas how much hp this could produce? At least in low RPM's torque is greatly improved over stock!
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Tuning with the EBL
A WB is helpful, but not necessary. Increase the upper BLM RPM limit and get some learns at higher RPM via BLM mode (BLM - RPM Learn Threshold). Then follow the new VE curve to massage the high load areas. On a mild build that is usually enough to get the AFR close.
If you have access to a WB then use it. Depending upon how much dyno time costs that is another method for WOT tuning.
Checking the spark plugs is also helpful, as some heads are timing limited, not detonation limited. As for being safe on the SA, if the engine starts to get rough, that is too much SA.
NB over 1000 mV under WOT is likely too rich. But the NB sensor output on the rich side is also dependent upon the temperature of the sensor.
Be sure to keep an eye on the injector DC% at the higher RPMs.
RBob.
If you have access to a WB then use it. Depending upon how much dyno time costs that is another method for WOT tuning.
Checking the spark plugs is also helpful, as some heads are timing limited, not detonation limited. As for being safe on the SA, if the engine starts to get rough, that is too much SA.
NB over 1000 mV under WOT is likely too rich. But the NB sensor output on the rich side is also dependent upon the temperature of the sensor.
Be sure to keep an eye on the injector DC% at the higher RPMs.
RBob.
Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Tuning with the EBL
I have a brand new 383 TPI that I installed and had initially started by the guy who built the motor. The initial startup was done with the OE computer, a Hypertec Prom adapter and a Prom burned by Kennedy's in Buffalo as a starter to make sure I didn't have any leaks, mechanical problems etc... The engine builder had originally set the timing, but did not set it to anything in particular, just set it to what made it run good. I have since got the EBL, installed it, pulled the info from the Prom Kenedy burned, and ran it in the EBL. I notice the initial timing on the startup chip was set to 5.98, which seems to be common with TPI tunes I have seen. I had verified what the car was actually set to, and I read 10.
I know I need to make a change, but does it matter if I change the timing or the tune? Is there a reason most TPI tunes I see have the initial timing set to 5.98? Is it just to match the sticker on the hood? Why is it not an even 6.00, who can set timing to that kind of accuracy?
Thanks
I know I need to make a change, but does it matter if I change the timing or the tune? Is there a reason most TPI tunes I see have the initial timing set to 5.98? Is it just to match the sticker on the hood? Why is it not an even 6.00, who can set timing to that kind of accuracy?
Thanks






