ALDL to Laptop circut again
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI going to LT1
Transmission: 5spd
ALDL to Laptop circut again
ok here is the circut i used
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
i am using Craig Moates (spelling?) software and can not get it to work.
it links up sometimes but will not run "live" i have to hit 1 then check a different page and then hit 1 to get another reading and that doesn't even work all the time.
the number on the bottom left does not stay the same all the time and i haven't gotten that beep or as he says "you'll know when its connected"
so my question is should i hook what they call vcc on that skematic to the serial port 1? i'm using the 9 pin serial port.
thanks for all the help i really want to get this working so i can get into prom burning because i want to be able to see what is going on.
thanks again
Andrew
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
i am using Craig Moates (spelling?) software and can not get it to work.
it links up sometimes but will not run "live" i have to hit 1 then check a different page and then hit 1 to get another reading and that doesn't even work all the time.
the number on the bottom left does not stay the same all the time and i haven't gotten that beep or as he says "you'll know when its connected"
so my question is should i hook what they call vcc on that skematic to the serial port 1? i'm using the 9 pin serial port.
thanks for all the help i really want to get this working so i can get into prom burning because i want to be able to see what is going on.
thanks again
Andrew
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Car: 78 Regal
Engine: 82 FBod LG4 305, 730 ECM
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I wish I could tell you what was going on but I have no clue. I can tell you that I built this simple two transistor circuit: http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/aldl_hardware.htm
It works great with CM software and is simple and easy and cheap to build. Give it a shot, it might work. I know you have time involved with the one you already built but this one is just so simple.
It works great with CM software and is simple and easy and cheap to build. Give it a shot, it might work. I know you have time involved with the one you already built but this one is just so simple.
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI going to LT1
Transmission: 5spd
ok so their pin A is our pin A
their pin F is our pin B
and their pin G is our pin M
if i'm wrong let me know i'm gonna just do that one
thanks
Andrew
their pin F is our pin B
and their pin G is our pin M
if i'm wrong let me know i'm gonna just do that one
thanks
Andrew
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Car: 78 Regal
Engine: 82 FBod LG4 305, 730 ECM
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: 4.10
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by smokin87iroc:
ok so their pin A is our pin A
their pin F is our pin B
and their pin G is our pin M
if i'm wrong let me know i'm gonna just do that one
thanks
Andrew</font>
ok so their pin A is our pin A
their pin F is our pin B
and their pin G is our pin M
if i'm wrong let me know i'm gonna just do that one
thanks
Andrew</font>
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The 2 transistor circuit rocks! It all fits into a D shell 25 pin connector. I have used either the laptop's DTR (pin 4/9) or RTS (pin 7/9) as the "12 volt" source for a one wire hookup. Craig's software activates both on the laptop so it all works well together.
Also I have connected a 1K resistor in series with an LED to the RTS pin and used that as the 12 volt source. It not only works (I was surprised ), but it also blinks in time with the data transfers. To be redundant I am now using DTR as the "12 volt" source and running the LED + 1K resistor from RTS in parallel with the DTR feed. Now the LED also monitors whether RTS is "ready" or not (so far, it always is). As a rule, no gadget I build is really complete without at least one blinky light firing away.
[This message has been edited by 86Red4+3 (edited November 06, 2001).]
Also I have connected a 1K resistor in series with an LED to the RTS pin and used that as the 12 volt source. It not only works (I was surprised ), but it also blinks in time with the data transfers. To be redundant I am now using DTR as the "12 volt" source and running the LED + 1K resistor from RTS in parallel with the DTR feed. Now the LED also monitors whether RTS is "ready" or not (so far, it always is). As a rule, no gadget I build is really complete without at least one blinky light firing away.
[This message has been edited by 86Red4+3 (edited November 06, 2001).]
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#8
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI going to LT1
Transmission: 5spd
i want to thank you guys for all the help.
i'm just gonna go with the 2 transistor circut and maybe trouble shoot the other one later
Andrew
i'm just gonna go with the 2 transistor circut and maybe trouble shoot the other one later
Andrew
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI going to LT1
Transmission: 5spd
ok 2 transistor circut didn't work for me at least but the max232 worked.
the problem
Windows 2000 professional!
the NT based windows stuff messes with the serial ports. i tried a win 95 laptop and it works like a dream. so i'm guessing any win NT, win 2k, or the new win XP won't work since they are NT based.
Andrew
the problem
Windows 2000 professional!
the NT based windows stuff messes with the serial ports. i tried a win 95 laptop and it works like a dream. so i'm guessing any win NT, win 2k, or the new win XP won't work since they are NT based.
Andrew
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