does anyone use the simulated narrow band output wire on their wide band/lc1 in place of the actual narrow band that the ecm reads from? reason i ask is becasue i think my narrow band is bad, and im about to install the lc1.

how could you tell if the narrow band is bad for sure, the only reason i think tis bad is becasue when i read the voltage from it it will sit at around 800-900 and then suddenly jump way down to like 60 or 80, low numbers like that, is this normal?

 

it just occured to me that i may just be retarded in looking at my reading. if its reading.854, and it goes down to .800, it will read as .80. so im just thinking of it/looking at it wrong. theres probably nothing wrong with my 02, right?

 

i have both of the cars i tune like this, one an lm1 the other an lc1.

seems to work great. i did find that i needed to slow the response time down a lot. either 1/6th or 1/3. i can't remember which without looking.

to find out what my ecm liked, i was watching the live data in Tunerpro in the graphing tab. i set it to look at the o2 voltage and kept slowing the time down till i got a smooth crossover. with it faster, it just didn't look right and then some times it would over shoot and i'd get a little buck.

 

im new to tuning so ill go ahead and ask now, how do i slow down its response time? i have code 13, so im definitely gona wire up the simulated narrow band. i have 3 wires on the factory narrow band, 2 whites and a black, the black on is the output signal to the cm right?

 

My experience has been that the WBO2 isn't dependable enough for constant use. If you keep your NBO2 and just use the WBO2 for tunning you would be better off in the long run. Replacement NBO2 are resonably priced and they last a long time.

 

There are many people that would disagree, especially those that have our WBO2s permenantly mounted.

So far my WBO2 has outlasted my NBO2.

 

i hooked up the simulated narrow band signal to my stock 02 sensor and it works awesome. all i did so far to my stock tune is put the timign around idle to 22, added some fuel through the rpm range at the higher map range. and changed my wot afr to 11.5:1 at the higher rpms. it runns pretty good with a wot run, but driving around normaly it, it runs and drives ok. how do i remove the egr? i just set all of the egrs maps to 0s...

 

most people go to the temp to enable egr and put that to max. so it never comes on.


as for slowing the output time. you have open the lc1 programmer and go to where you can set the output voltage and stuff. theres an advance tab on there, click that and it will open another window. then just click the speed you want and your good.


if you are having good luck how it is, then maybe your ok. could just be something only my cars liked.

 

i cant, i dont have a serial port on my computer.

 

You'll need a USB to serial converter to make any changes to the programming.

The converters seem to be hit and miss, but ones that come with a drivers disc would be what I would look for. The converters I bought had the driver disc added by the seller, and have used the converter for my LC-1 and my home made ALDL interface cable.

I found that it took a few attempts to connect to the LC-1 the first time, but after that it seemed to be ok.

 

my laptop is older so it already had one but only one usb too. so since I started with a stock $8D bin. I couldn't wire the wideband into it for logging. so I found a pci slot(or whatever it called) card to serial adaptor for like 20$ online and gave it a shot. it works great for logworks, so I can have a real time a/f graph on the screen and tunerpro dash, ve table with the yellow bubble running all at once. oddly thou tunerpro will only work from the real serial port where my lm1 and lc1 will work from either.

 

I had issues with the life of the WB sensor when I first started using. Certain conditions will kill it. i ended up wiring it so it will not see voltage spikes nor condensation hitting a hot sensor. also I needed to move it back in ext stream as it was not tolerant of excessive heat. As of today it has survived over a year. Innovate suggested permanent install can have its issues. OEM spends a lot of time getting the positioning in ext stream just right. some of the guys running turbos need to be cautious of positioning for sure. I am using Bosch VW sensor.

 

I have my WBO2 permanently mounted as well, but it hasn't shown itself to be reliable. It was constantly shutting off on start-ups and has completely died now. I have owned it for 1 1/2 years. Seems our experiences have differed.

 

Mine is wired like this. Ign on- sensor on. fuel pump turns off(f pressure up) -sensor off...starter cranks-sensor off...car starts -sensor on.
This was Innovate suggestion.

Keep in mind the WB02 sensor is permanent in OEM(Honda-VW and others) BUT they do a ton of experimenting with location of sensor. That was told me by Innovate!