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Please somebody, be my hero

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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #1  
90CamaroTBI's Avatar
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From: Waldorf, MD
Car: 91 Formula, 89 IROC
Engine: LB9, LB9
Transmission: 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: Posi 2.73, Posi 2.73
Please somebody, be my hero

The Camaro has been on jackstands for at least 4 weeks now. I dont get much time to work on it but this is all over a stupid header install. If somebody could please just give me some advice on the following things, you will be one of my all time heros.

-First off, all of the nuts and bolts to the stock manifold have been 14mm, how comes when I get to the back two on the passenger side, the 14mm wrench basically strips the bolt....I do not understand what the hell is going on. I stopped right before its stripped for good so it may still have a chance. Also you cant get a socket on it because that damn heater box junk is in the way.

-Second, I tried to tackle the driver side header thing and fitment is terrible, I cannot get it in there. The motor mount bolt is not coming out cause its junk, so I tried jacking as high as I could stretching the mounts and its still not working. Do you think that taking off the valve cover would do it?

Any help at all will make my day better because I am tired of doing the same thing for weeks, I just dont understand why it is so damn hard. I am starting to look at my car as junk but I dont want to, please guys help me out.

These are hedman emission legal headers.

Last edited by 90CamaroTBI; Mar 28, 2006 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 06:44 PM
  #2  
90CamaroTBI's Avatar
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From: Waldorf, MD
Car: 91 Formula, 89 IROC
Engine: LB9, LB9
Transmission: 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: Posi 2.73, Posi 2.73
I know someone wants to be a third gen hero lol.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #3  
w1964bgta's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 128
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From: Great Lakes State
Car: 89 gta ws6, Dodge Turbo Diesel, H-D
Engine: 383 4-bolt #638 block
Transmission: 700r4, corvette servo, 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt b-w, pbr discs
Do you have access to a set of torches? If so cut off that darn motor mount bolt but have plenty of water on hand just in case some errant grease and oil catches plus if you don't do it correctly (keep the heat on the bolt head)you could catch the rubber insert on fire, not to worry water will put it out. Then you can replace your motor mounts which is about time anyways with 16+yrs on them. Almost forgot to mention, MOVE ALL WIRING out of the way, wire tie it up. After you've finished that cut that header bolt off on the outside of the stocker manifold so you can get the old header off, then you can take off your valve cover and heat up around the bolt and hopefully get a pair of vise grips on it and remove it. Heat is the key. Hope this helps!!
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:23 PM
  #4  
espirocz's Avatar
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
Car: CTS-V & 89 Z28 vortech charged
Engine: LS6 & 383 charged stroker
Transmission: 6-speed & 5 speed
When I installed my SLP headers the right (passenger) side droped right in, tight, but in. Went to do the left (driver) side and the header flange would not even touch flat against the head. After much foul language and throwing a screwdriver, I called SLP. They must get this call alot because no sooner did I tell him my problem. He was telling me my motor maounts were collapsed. I look for reasons to put Poly in my car and this was a good reason to install Energy Suspension Polyurethane engine mounts. Its not easy but I have posted about using a coathanger and some silicone to get the nut and washer combination inside the K-member to start the mount bolts. After replacing the mounts the header on the left side fell in. I was suprised how much the old mounts let the engine sag down.

I think only one of the right side bolt holes are used for mounting headers. Other than that I dont know what to tell you. Dont give up.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:29 PM
  #5  
85MikeTPI's Avatar
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From: Elkton MD, USA
Car: 1985 Camaro Z28, VIN F
Engine: 427 sbc, HSR
Transmission: T-56, self rebuilt 700+ hp
Axle/Gears: Moser 12bolt, 3.42 trutrac
Originally Posted by 90CamaroTBI
-First off, all of the nuts and bolts to the stock manifold have been 14mm, how comes when I get to the back two on the passenger side, the 14mm wrench basically strips the bolt....I do not understand what the hell is going on. I stopped right before its stripped for good so it may still have a chance. Also you cant get a socket on it because that damn heater box junk is in the way.
They should all be 9/16inch. They may be slightly rusted/worn, which
is why the 14 fits. Are you saying the 14 is too large for two of the
bolts? Hit them with WD40 over a few days and try different metric
and SAE sized wrenches.

Originally Posted by 90CamaroTBI
-Second, I tried to tackle the driver side header thing and fitment is terrible, I cannot get it in there. The motor mount bolt is not coming out cause its junk, so I tried jacking as high as I could stretching the mounts and its still not working. Do you think that taking off the valve cover would do it?

These are hedman emission legal headers.
Have you removed the steering shaft? 2 bolts and some wrangling and it
should pop off and might help. Have you tried installing the header from
the top and the bottom of the car? Otherwise, get a replacement motor
mount bolt and cut yours off..

good luck
mike
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #6  
ShiftyCapone's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
A few cans of PB Blaster go a long way. I would spray down all motor mount bolts as well as header bolts. Let it soak for a few hours and try again. If you do get the motor mounts loose (keep trying you will) it may be a good idea to replace them. New motor mounts can make or break you when installing headers.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #7  
90CamaroTBI's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Waldorf, MD
Car: 91 Formula, 89 IROC
Engine: LB9, LB9
Transmission: 700R4, 700R4
Axle/Gears: Posi 2.73, Posi 2.73
Well see ive never changed a motor mount and I have heard that its hours to replace these ones. The bolts have soaked in pb blaster for over a week with several shots. Thanks for the advice so far guys.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #8  
urbanhunter44's Avatar
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
PB blaster them and like they said, they should be 9/16 (14mm is the 9/16 equivlant). If it won't go on, try hammering that bitch on. If it's going to strip though try a smaller wrench and you might get lucky.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #9  
The_Beast's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Hey man. I feel your pain with bolts that refuse to cooperate. If you plan on replacing the bolts then I highly recommend you getting yourself a set of Bolt Grips. They basically bite into the bolt and wont let go until its out. I have some pictured in a thread where I talked about them. Besides the Irwins that I listed, there is also a set of Craftsman's that are basically the same thing. Only difference is that you can put the Irwins directly onto any socket wrench while the Craftsmans just have a hole in the back. To turn them you either have to use an open ended wrench or use a big socket that very snugly fits around it, then you can use a socket wrench. I bought 5 from each set. All you have to do is use the same size bolt grip for the size socket you were originally supposed to use. For instance, since you say that the bolts were supposed to be 14mm or 9/16, then you would need to get the set that has the 14mm / 9/16 bolt grip......Hope this helps and wasnt too much information. lol. Here is the link to that thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/342291-smog-pump-woes.html
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:29 PM
  #10  
CityStarz's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 64
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: not a third gen
Engine: L36
Transmission: 4T65E
Axle/Gears: stock 3.29
that's neat, never saw those before



+1 for PB blaster too, that stuff works great
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #11  
The_Beast's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 1
From: Alabama
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 5.7 350 :))
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 1996 - 3.42
Yeaa man they work so awesome its incredible. I couldnt believe I had never heard of them either. The craftsman set of like 13 is around $30 at sears if I remember correctly. Also, yea I dont know if there is a bolt alive that could withstand the combination of these and PB Blaster....
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:47 AM
  #12  
espirocz's Avatar
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
Car: CTS-V & 89 Z28 vortech charged
Engine: LS6 & 383 charged stroker
Transmission: 6-speed & 5 speed
If you still cannot get the bolts out!!!!!!!!

Call me and I'll order you a set of GMPP Aluminum 62cc fastburn heads. That way you dont have to worry about that freakin' bolt.

I would definatly stay away from the "Smoke Wrench", but, buy, beg, or steal some air tools.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 07:04 AM
  #13  
espirocz's Avatar
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
Car: CTS-V & 89 Z28 vortech charged
Engine: LS6 & 383 charged stroker
Transmission: 6-speed & 5 speed
If your down to the last two bolts just get a Sawzall. Cut the two nuts off. that should free the manifold. then you will have something to get a hold of. I think Sears sells a stud puller. That is my thirdgenhero comment.

Those Irwin bolt grips are pretty cool, doesnt Lowes sell Irwin.

Last edited by espirocz; Mar 29, 2006 at 07:08 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #14  
urbanhunter44's Avatar
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Posts: 4,345
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Those sockets for stripped bolts are AWESOME. We have a set down at work and they work EVERY time.
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