jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

i read that if you cut the cross bar for the main hoop you have to make a sleeve for it but what if you do it with the main hoop? the problem i had was that the competition engineering main hoop i had was a tad bit too wide(when i tryed to put it in it was about 1 inch too wider then the car and was hitting the "door frames") its not the car becuase i dont see any signs of the car being in a wreck and its like this throughout the door area. the car is a shell atm so the interior isnt in the car. also im welding using tig

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

btw ive been looking(even looked at actual screenshots of nhra rulebooks) and cant find the sleeve thing anywhere which is whats confusing me. i should note i read about the cross bar/cutting thing after i welded in the main hoop rofl, i just dont wanna have to cut it out or somethingi have no clue what its going to run and i race mostly at norwalk. havnt really looked at any rulebook just been building the car how i want so i dont think its gona fit into any particular class. its mostly for my fun and im 100% confident in my welds

jg04222

by sleeve, do you mean putting a slug inside the tube? usually this is a the accepted method of joining two pieces of pipe. i'm a little confused about what problem you're having, but if you can't get the main hoop to fit inside the car, try hooking a come-a-long to both legs of the hoop and pull them in; i had to pull mine in about 3/4".

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

thats what i was reading was a sleeve of tube inside or out as a visable reinforcement, my problem wasnt so much the legs as the top where the bends where, the legs fit in(granted they where riding the inside wall of the car body) but where the bends are where to wide. kinda like this
and the main hoop is already inside the car i cut it in the center and took about 4 inchs out of the center of the top and it fits in good now(granted looking back i should of prob taken only 3) im just trying to figure out if i need to cut it back out and weld a tube over the weld in the center like this i also have 1/8th inch steel i could weld to the hoop then heat it to bend around the tube and weld it all up. i kinda wanna avoid cutting it out but i would like to race it at least wensdays at norwalk(since i doubt im actually gona fit into all the rules for any particular class for bracket racing i want the bar mostly for chassis stiffening

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

hmmm just found it
4.4 FRAMES
TF, FC, PS, TAD, TAFC, and 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker ET chassis (see Class Requirements) must have a serialized chassis sticker affixed to frame before participating in any FIA event. Chassis certifications are available through ASN. Grinding of welds prohibited. All butt welds must have visible reinforcement (i.e. sleeve and rosette welds). Pressurization of frame rails, roll bar or roll cage in lieu of air bottles is prohibited. Visible reinforcement around any hole in any SFI spec chassis (not just the roll cage) mandatory. Reinforcement must be of at least the same cross sectional area as the hole, at least .049 inch (1.2 mm) thick chrome molly and completely welded around the outside. See 4.10 ROLL BARS and 4.11 ROLL CAGES.



says sleeve and rosette welds so i would think taking 1/8th inch steel and bending around the tubing would work since it would be a sleeve then =/ mayby i can take a piece of tubing and cut it in half then weld it over top the weld in the hoop so i dont have to cut the hoop out

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand, how did you get it in the car if the hoop was wider than the body? Something is wrong here, the CE stuff usually fits pretty decent, if not a bit on the conservative side to make sure that it fits.

As far as the rest of this goes... you're going to spend more time trying to do this well and neatly up against the roof of the car then you will just cutting it off clean at the mounting plate and rewelding it.

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

i got it in because i already cut it in the center, then i read about having to sleeve any butt joints in pieces like the cross brace/main hoop ext. i can get to the top to weld have about 3 inchs since i had just butt welded them togeather, im not sure what all happened with my main hoop becuase i dint have to cut it at all height wise just width im guessing it got bent wrong or something and somehow managed to make it through inspection, mistakes happen. =/

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

that's even weirder... I could see getting the wrong main hoop, they just bend them to an established pattern, but what the heck is lower and wider than a 3rd gen f-body???

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

not a clue tbh, think im gona get some 1/4 inch, 2.5 inch steel and then weld it to the top and bend it around to make a sleeve, then drill a couple holes for rosette welds, it will be a sleeve and should pass but who knows until i take it in =/ mayby a nissan 300zx is lower and wider? only thing i could think of as a mayby but idk atm i would imagine it would be one of those imports i dont know the specs on any of there chassis though, summit might have gotten sent one or two on mistake considering the volume they deal with

AlkyIROC

Typically the sleeve is inside the tube. The sleeve is a smaller section of tubing and should be at least 1/8" wall thickness and fit snug inside the tube that's going to be cut. It only needs to be 4-6" long. Drill holes through the cut tube. One hole drilled straight through on each piece. Slide the sleeve into one tube and weld the rosettes with an equal part of the sleeve sticking out of the tube. Slide the other tube over the sleeve, position the tube to where you want it and weld all the way around the butt weld. Finish off by welding the rosettes on the second tube.

I don't think there's anything in the rules about having the sleeve on the outside except they can't tell how long the section is inside the sleeve. It could be butted together or could have a gap between the tubes. Wrapping a piece of 1/8" flat stock around the tube will fail an inspection.

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

man that kinda sucks i really dint wanna have to cut the thing out =/ so many rules and i dont even think im going to fit into any particular class(moving the firewall back along with the engine/trans, considering cutting 3-4 inchs out of in front of the front wheelwells, same for behind the rear wheelwells, fiberglass doors, and im only running a 305 atm, will prob upgrade later but planning on getting my speed from nitrous and low weight =/)

AlkyIROC

Moving the firewall back or cutting out a section for a larger tranny tunnel will require a full cage.

I'd love to move my engine back another 6" but the large tube headers prevent it. The frame rails taper inwards behind the engine. My headers are jammed up tight to the frame rails. I currently have the engine back about 1" from the sock position. It's also sitting about 2" lower.

I'm also running a 540 BBC with raised port heads and 2-1/4" primary tube headers.

jerryd87

iTrader: (2)

bah just gets worse for me =P dint think about the taper i wonder if a sbc would have any problems with it, headers shouldnt be too bad considering a small 305 isnt gona have anything huge on it. im going to move everything under the cross brace on the firewall back flush with the brace, my seat is being moved back also to close to the roll bar, mayby ill just have to look into the 10 pt cage conversion i just ordered the piece to sleeve the inside of the bar thats gona be fun to cut out and slide it in. quick question is the top hoop in your cage just another main hoop for a kit or is it something different?

jg04222

the halo bar is different...if i were you i think i would just buy a new main hoop. remember that this thing is supposed to keep the driver safe in the event of a crash. i'm not doubting your welding capabilities at all, and in reality a good weld should be just as strong as the tube, but i think the fewer joints you have the better. just my opinion.