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So I am matting the inside of the doors and body walls, not the floor...yet. I am going to replace the carpeting on the car. If I put fat mat...etc. on the floor pans, should I just get regular stock carpeting or should I consider the carpeting kit with extra padding? Hawks and a few others sell extra padded carpeting for sound dampening and heat control. I would rather go with just the extra padded carpet. However is one better than the other or both?
The mass backing is what does the sound deadening, not the padding or the Dynamat (Fatmat etc). FatMat sucks, I put the 80 mil stuff inside my suburban and it melted up bu the firewall, it is going to be a TON of work to clean it all up. There is a reason Dynamat is expensive.
You need 25-40% coverage with the dynamat products and 100% coverage with mass loaded vinyl, the mass backing. I got a roll of mass loaded vinyl, that's in addition to the mass backed carpet, and covered everything from the firewall to the rear hatch and my car rivals moden cars on sound and I haven't even finished yet.
The mass backing is what does the sound deadening, not the padding or the Dynamat (Fatmat etc). FatMat sucks, I put the 80 mil stuff inside my suburban and it melted up bu the firewall, it is going to be a TON of work to clean it all up. There is a reason Dynamat is expensive.
You need 25-40% coverage with the dynamat products and 100% coverage with mass loaded vinyl, the mass backing. I got a roll of mass loaded vinyl, that's in addition to the mass backed carpet, and covered everything from the firewall to the rear hatch and my car rivals moden cars on sound and I haven't even finished yet.
This is what I was looking for. I put fatmat on my inner doors and sides of the interior. I will not put it on the floor pans at all. I am gonna go with the padded carpet as you suggest. Heat and noise are not really an issue coming from the floors so I may just go padded carpet and leave it at that. Its not a daily driver anyway and I am happy so far with the the fatmat has done for the doors, etc.
However I do see Home Depot carries it. I will check out the mass vinyl they carry.
Thanks!
Last edited by Hawkeye1980; Sep 8, 2020 at 11:24 PM.
You might be surprised just how much heat DOES come from your floorboards, especially the passenger side front floorboard. That IS where the exhaust runs...
I hit mine an infrared thermometer this summer after driving around, at the time no heat shield or carpeting, 150*F on the PS floorboard, trans tunnel and everything below the dash was at least 130*. There was also no firewall insulation in place. You could feel the heat rising all around like an open oven door. I recently installed DEI’s extreme heat barrier over the cat converter hump (under the floorboards not inside the car) and that alone cut down the temp tremendously.
Last edited by SilverChicken; Oct 17, 2020 at 11:23 PM.
I plan to put some sort of dynamat type product and mass backing down as well. Whole car. Beyond that though, I was NOT going to get the extra padding on the new carpet. Not saying that's right or wrong, but rather just what I was thinking.
....and I agree with heat around your exhaust. I had bare carpet with no backing, and no other product on my LAST Iroc. Definitely was louder, and the heat was significant. Not dangerous, but uncomfortable for the passenger in the summer.
I went with FatMat and then splurged for the mass backed ACC carpet from RockAuto. The IROC isn't on the road yet, but I can definitely tell a difference when I shut the doors.
I went with FatMat and then splurged for the mass backed ACC carpet from RockAuto. The IROC isn't on the road yet, but I can definitely tell a difference when I shut the doors.
I’ve noted the interior of my 85 T/A is always warm, my wife calls it the dream machine because she’s always fighting off a nap in the passenger seat.
it is an automatic t top car, so I think part of the heat comes from that? I’ve added headers and a high flow cat this year, and significantly increased the noise level from the exhaust.
I’m looking for ways to reduce cabin temperature as well as noise. Has anyone tried reflectix?
You might be surprised just how much heat DOES come from your floorboards, especially the passenger side front floorboard. That IS where the exhaust runs...
I hit mine an infrared thermometer this summer after driving around, at the time no heat shield or carpeting, 150*F on the PS floorboard, trans tunnel and everything below the dash was at least 130*. There was also no firewall insulation in place. You could feel the heat rising all around like an open oven door. I recently installed DEI’s extreme heat barrier over the cat converter hump (under the floorboards not inside the car) and that alone cut down the temp tremendously.
I've pulled all my carpet out to replace it, and I had to drive it to the shop to get the A/C fixed again. No A/C, no carpet, 90+ outside. The car turns into an oven.
I went with the ACC deluxe carpet with Mass Backing. I've already applied lots of kilmat and fatmat the car, just need to trim down the carpet and install it now. I'm also putting foam on the inside of all the trim before installing to reduce rattles
I’ve noted the interior of my 85 T/A is always warm, my wife calls it the dream machine because she’s always fighting off a nap in the passenger seat.
it is an automatic t top car, so I think part of the heat comes from that? I’ve added headers and a high flow cat this year, and significantly increased the noise level from the exhaust.
I’m looking for ways to reduce cabin temperature as well as noise. Has anyone tried reflectix?
My daily pickup has a moonroof and it really adds to the heat level inside. I also ran into the same issue when I had my '86 IROC with t-tops.
I used the 80mil FatMat on my entire Camaro from roof to floor. Then covered that with a combination of 1/2" closed foam on the floor and 3/8" thick closed foam mat for the rest of the interior. Made a ton of difference eliminating the rattles and road noise and blocking the sound of the stereo from being heard outside the car. I realize this is way overkill but i also wanted to aid in keeping the interior cool during the hot summer
I've pulled all my carpet out to replace it, and I had to drive it to the shop to get the A/C fixed again. No A/C, no carpet, 90+ outside. The car turns into an oven.
I went with the ACC deluxe carpet with Mass Backing. I've already applied lots of kilmat and fatmat the car, just need to trim down the carpet and install it now. I'm also putting foam on the inside of all the trim before installing to reduce rattles
What difference have you noticed? I’m looking at the acc carpet from RockAuto.
You might be surprised just how much heat DOES come from your floorboards, especially the passenger side front floorboard. That IS where the exhaust runs...
I hit mine an infrared thermometer this summer after driving around, at the time no heat shield or carpeting, 150*F on the PS floorboard, trans tunnel and everything below the dash was at least 130*. There was also no firewall insulation in place. You could feel the heat rising all around like an open oven door. I recently installed DEI’s extreme heat barrier over the cat converter hump (under the floorboards not inside the car) and that alone cut down the temp tremendously.
would you have some pictures of the heat barrier install?
I have my concerns using fatmat etc. on the floor. What if you ever need to replace a floor pan? How hard is it to remove? I did use it however in the doors, roof, around the sail panels, wheel wells in the back and I have to say the improvement is very noticeable. The doors shut like a new car, no rattles or anything. Road noise is down as well. So I can imagine sound proofing the floors are a huge improvement. I am going to re stain/paint my factory carpet next spring. Its in very good shape, just some fading and stains to address.
I have my concerns using fatmat etc. on the floor. What if you ever need to replace a floor pan? How hard is it to remove?
Think melted tootsie rolls, no exaggeration, what ever it would take to remove melted tootsie rolls. I am going ACTUAL Dynamat next time, the Fatmat melted in my Suburban, it is a HUGE mess
would you have some pictures of the heat barrier install?
I didn’t take any and the car is on the ground right now and a pain to get in the air. I have to remove the air dam in order to get the jack under the k-member and be able to pump it. The heat shield is just an aluminum skinned heat shield with a 1/8” fiberglass pad and an adhesive backing from DEI. I simply took measurements of the areas I intended to cover, drew up the shape off the measurements on poster board and cut it out to adjust the shape to the floor pan contours in that area. Then I traced the final shape of the cardboard onto the heat barrier, cut to shape and carefully applied it so that it fully adhered to the sheet metal didn’t end up all tacky looking (even if it is under the car. Don’t rush the job and it’ll come out looking like it was made specifically for your car. My factory catalytic converters heat was gone otherwise I’d have just stuck with it.
Last edited by SilverChicken; Oct 25, 2020 at 09:59 PM.
Think melted tootsie rolls, no exaggeration, what ever it would take to remove melted tootsie rolls. I am going ACTUAL Dynamat next time, the Fatmat melted in my Suburban, it is a HUGE mess
Yes that is was I remember you posted before. I want to AVOID THAT!!
I am thinking of using a mass backing with my factory carpet. I am going to pull it out next spring, clean and re-stain/paint it. Its in great shape other wise.