timmyboy

Hey guys. Well i have been working on this project for a while now I decided it was time to let everyone else in on it. For the sake of open criticism, suggestions, help, or whatever you see that i did wrong. Lets start with the car. Its a 91 z28 that has 30,000 original miles Fully caged (12 point), x-brace subframe connectors, And many other susspension mods. I finaly decided i was going to do this car what it deserved and went and bought a ls3 crate engine. As you can see by the pics i installed a lg motorsports g6x3 cam, and ati underdrive pulley. I also purchased the spohn performance tubular k-member and coil over kit. I painted everything in the engine compartment and just installed the engine over the weekend. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks tim.

Atilla the Fun

Did you upgrade the pushrods? The valvesprings? The retainers? What about the rod "bolts"? (capscrews) and are you a member of www.ls1tech.com?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

Since this is an LSx swap, I moved it to that subforum.

(Personally, I view membership on ls1tech to be more of a necessary evil than anything else. . . )

Atilla the Fun

I agree. To be accepted over there, you have to be competing for the most power ever seen from an LS. They only help you choose way too much cam, more than you'll be happy with.

timmyboy

Yes im on ls1 tech. I did upgrade everything but rod bolts. Personally i did a bunch of research on cams. And there are alot of happy people with the g6x3 cam. Not to mention its a proven power maker. I drove my buddys new vette with it and driveability was great. He is putting 482 rwhp cam header swap alone. Also im young i have no problem with a little surging. My buddy also owns a speeed shop and we have a real good tuner.

Atilla the Fun

I wasn't saying the g6x3 is too much. If you don't upgrade the rod bolts, then don't go over 6600 rpm.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

My swap barely got a whooptie-doo

TPI TERR

iTrader: (9)

this is what i am aiming for in the future cammed ls3.! a blower would be nice!.
post some more pics.!
what harness did you use?

energycontacts

iTrader: (1)

what you protection did you use in the wheel well? what kind of coating is it and how did you apply it? looks great

nhedrick007

I've got the ls3, cam only, NW T.B., and headers on E-85 fuel put down 507 @ 6300. You'll be happy.

As far as the LS1tech guys... Those guys have NO idea. It's a lot of fun to play with true ls cars, as we "turd gener's" have a weight advantage, and will some good power you can walk all over them. A buddy just sent his 2010 SS back to Livernoise Motorsports to get the head cam package to his already magnacharged car. I was able to slightly pull on him up top while still sucking my own air.

YOUR GONNA LOVE IT!!!!

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

There's a tremendous amount of knowledge on LS1tech... it's just like any other forum (including this one) in that you just need to shovel the BS out of the way to get to the helpful information. Like this site, once you learn who to trust, there is a lot of good knowledge that can be gathered.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ive learned to do a search for specific info. If 3-4 threads agree and the OP finished the thread with and "its fixed", its probably correct. Otherwise, keep looking

This thread comes to mind. Notice how everyone thinks they're defective until one person says they're fine then everyone agrees. Baaaaaaa

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...pped-pics.html

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

those headers look exactly like the arizone and speed marine headers i bought a while back. they are fine. mine sealed perfectly.

timmyboy

As for the wiring harness i am using the gm conversion swap harness. The wheel wells are undercoated with 3m undercoating. For prep work i used grease and wax remover with a scotch brite pad. I know i will be satisfied with the cam. Im hoping to be about 480 rwhp with motor alone. I also have a 100 hp shot on top of that. Ill attach some pictures of the car for you guys. -Tim

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

{Sorry about turning your thread into a tech.com roast. It won't happen again.}

timmyboy

lol its all good.....

TPI TERR

iTrader: (9)

nice
any vids?

timmyboy

Just installed my hawks 1 3/4" headers. Has anyone had any problems with the #3 cylinder plug wire touching the header? If so what have you done about it. That is the only one that i have a issue with.

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...park-plug.html

timmyboy

Thanks that helps. Will try one of those suggestions!

cam-

Clean looking swap Tim congrats!! Your gonna love that thing when its done thats for sure.

Agreed with Jims comments above about tech. Great site you just have to weed through the junk

timmyboy

Thanks man.

timmyboy

Some updated pictures. My nitrous bottle custom mount, Line lock and adjustable proportioning valve, and headers.

timmyboy

A few more pics.....

timmyboy

A few more pics..... The one is how i drilled and tapped the water pump for the steam tube. Turned out pretty clean.

timmyboy

I know this has been talked about and i have searched. But what would be the best power steering and radiator hoses to use. Cleanest install look.

1981LT1

iTrader: (1)

Very nice. If I didn't have so many damn cars I would love to do this instead of my LT1.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats a really clean engine bay

Rad hoses depend on the rad. Assuming you got a V8 or aftermarket with the stock hose locations you use a 93-95 3.4L V6 Fbody upper hose and a 90 Ford F250 7.5L lower hose. Upper fits perfect, lower needs some length trimmed off both ends. Pics in my swap thread

4th gen Fbody PS lines work perfect with the 4th gen PS pump. You're not using the Fbody stuff, so custom may be your only option. High pressure stainless lines for the aftermarket touch or go to NAPA/hydraulic company for custom bent lines. Remember the PS pump peaks around 1200psi so be sure your hose is rated for that

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I'm quite envious of this swap

I love your car, everything about it. I really want to paint mine next spring so it looks as show worthy as yours does in the pictures.

timmyboy

Thanks pocket for the radiator hose numbers. If im correct the 4th gen power steering pump location is very similar to where I have mine located. And thanks bluezee i appreciate the compliments.

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

you could also use cool flex hoses for the swap too. I have the V6 upper and am very happy. The lower never seemed to fit quite right, so I just got one for the lower. This will allow me to get better routing (the lower hits/rubs the idler arm) and no worries about replacment in the future.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The ford lower hose is nowhere near the idler or anthing else. It swont rub through

timmyboy

No thanks on the cool flex hose. Im trying to make it look as clean as possible. Never have been a big fan of the flexible radiator hose.

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

I got the ford lower, and no matter how I tried, I couldn't get the thing to fit right. I don't know what hose is on it now, it's one that fit, imperfectly, but better than the ford one.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Did you trim both ends? One loses about 4" the other about 2"

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember if I did or not, I don't think I ever found how much to trim off, or that both ends need to be trimmed. either way, if I remember , I'll see what I can do for taking some pics of my install. It really depends on when I get around to flushing out the coolant again.

timmyboy

I am not happy with the ford f 250 hose at all. I could get it to clear everything but the hose end are to big. I am trying to do a very clean install and do not want to run worm clamps!!! Or a flexable hose. There has to be a better fitting hose than that out there.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Where it slide over the Ford waterpump should be about 1/4" too big for the LS1 WP. The middle section should be uniform and the proper size for the LS1 WP. Cut the fat section off and all should be well. You trim 4" from the WP side and 1 1/2" from the rad side IIRC. Worm clamps are the standard attachment method. You shouldnt be squeezing the ID of the hose smaller, only clamping it to the pump so it doesnt fall off

timmyboy

Ya i did that pocket. But looking at your pictrure closely it looks like it is folding over just a bit on the right side. The hose is to big on both sides. There is no way it is going to fit correctly. No other suggestions???

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what radiator you're using but I have the LT1 radiator and I was able to use the LS1 lower radiator hose. All I had to do was cut about an inch or less off the side that goes to the radiator so it would not be touching the idler arm.

timmyboy

Im using a aluminum replacement (third-gen) radiator. So sadly that will not work for me. Thanks though.

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

timmyboy

Thanks, Ill keep ya guys updated on what i find.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The puckers are like that in relaxed form. Its just how the factory molded it. The hose is not under any sort of tension

Only tried and true method that always works is a metal flex hose. They dont look so good though

timmyboy

I ended up using the fourth Gen hose. A little die electric grease to help with the install. By far the best looking and best fitting hose. Ill attach some pics later. This week in going to try and tackle my custom intake.

timmyboy

Fourth gen hose real tight. But best fitting

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

That does look pretty good. I am using the Ford F350 hose on mine and it is working great too though.

timmyboy

Working on custom four inch Aluminum intake setup. Looking good so far. I will post pictures of this and my nitrous plate later today.

timmyboy

pick of my intake in progress...

timmyboy

You can also see the brand ls3 nitrous plate system that nx just released in this pic.