I don't like the slip-fit collector (and I dont trust it with a Wide Band O2 down stream)

anyway I was really thinking of getting some stainless v-band clamps and flanges to weld on at the headers and down stream at the intermediate pipe. but then ive heard of them leaking and what if the clamp breaks or something? then I need wait and order the clamp(s).

so what have you guys used? I'm set on stainless, and Im thinking of using the tried and true 3 bolt flanges that's what I used on my current setup where my y-pipe meets my SLP intermediate pipe


A third option that I really like is using the factory style O-rings set in the flanges (often used at the manifold to dn pipe or like the one side of the truck manifolds)


pics would be great

 

I welded on some of the standard 3bolt flanges. If I had to do it over I would've welded on some vbands just because I hate replacing gaskets.

 

I used V-bands on mine, but the damn things catch on speed bumps since they are the lowest point under my car.......

Just worried one day I'll catch one wrong, and break the clamp. I can't seem to be able to find anyone selling just the clamps....

they do make it easy to remove/install the y if you need to work on the trans

 

I have ball socket flanges on my headers. No gaskets, and no leaks.

 

i used stainless v-bands they worked great for me... see posts 190 and 191 in my thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ne-swap-4.html

 

i used a standard 3 bolt flange, stainless on the header side, and mild steel on the exhaust side. no issues yet.

 

thanks for the quick reply everyone!

Jaysz28, yeah I'm worried about that being an issue. also are you lowered at all?


alan91z28, I take it yours doesn't leak? I heard some people swear by them and others have had leaks.



I agree I don't like replacing gaskets every time I need to remove the y-pipe. Im really thinking my best bet may be to make some 3" flanges that use the o-ring. you can reuse them a few times and they would be easy to find at any parts store... but then there is at least 3 sets I would need to make

 

Id use these for flip joints. Never seen one leak. NAPA sells them for $4-5 vs the $20something on summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BOR-18006/

 

thanks, I have the one on my car right befor the axle and you can see where it collects some exhaust leaving black spots.. cant hear it leak but it is

 

here is where i got most of mine. i also got a couple from stainless works as well.

http://www.burnsstainless.com/vb-300-assy.aspx

they both worked well and no leak issues. they are top notch quality

 

Same here, my passenger collector is pretty beat up. Wish the headers would tuck in an extra inch or two.

Lowered on Sportlines, switching to a 265/40/18 tire up front helped a bit over the 275/35/18 that would hit in every driveway.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...2-my-87-a.html

V-bands are used in turbo applications...holding lots of pressure. Sometimes even in the 50+ PSI range in some diesel set ups I believe. So holding exhaust pressure is a cake walk for them. Mine seal great, and SUPER easy to take apart.

The nice thing about taking them apart, besides them not "seizing together", is you can drop the section of exhaust straight down. So I was able to mount my cat back and get it adjusted, and when I want to remove the y-pipe I dont have to yank at slip joints or anything.

I actually did rip one of my clamps off on a speed bump. Well...it got mangled. Still held the pipes together so they didnt just fall though which was a good thing. The actual flanges didnt get damaged. It was actually my fault, beacuse I clocked it so the threaded rod was pointing down. I put a new clamp on it,rotated it up, and now I can hit all the speed bumps I want.

J.

 

For my exhaust I used flat band stainless steel exhaust clamps (like these, although I got them from a different source, can't remember which: https://www.empirechromeshop.com/p-3...mp-single.aspx) to attach my cats to the headers (the cats slipped over the collectors) and also used v-bands for the pipes going over my axle to make it easy to take apart. No issues or leaks at all.

 

well finally decided to install the headers and they fit like garbage! I think even if I cut the vband flange off its still going to be a very close fit! ive ran other brands and these hawks headers are junk compared to the rest. I could barely fit thin cardboard between the pass-side bell-housing and the primary tube. the floor and frame are so close to the rest of the header I can hardly wait til i'm idling.

Im so pissed this is NOT why I spent the money on swap headers! you pay so you dont need to make your own. guess I get to pull every thing off and remove the dang things so I can cut and weld them they way they should be... thanks bruce

 

Which version did you get? The 1-3/4" x 2.5" version I got fit fine - in both the T56 car and the 4L60E car.

 

Sure wish they made a 1 7/8 header for thirdgens again...

 

I used the old school 3 bolt flanges. They work well, I just use a dead soft aluminum gasket...it has lasted me 4-5 years with several disassemblies along the way. They don't leak at all if you take care to tighten down the 3 bolts evenly.

 

i dont wanna hijack thread, so yell at me if i am lol. But regarding these long tubes they also sell the offroad ypipe kit with everything together. Now on the hawks website it says the ypipe clears the hawks trans member, but not the spohn one for some reason. From the pictures of the spohn 4l60e trans member, it looks even slimmer and I cannot see any reason why the ypipe wouldn't fit around it. Is anyone running the spohn 4l60e trans member and the hawks offroad ypipe and having any issues?

 

I have the 1 5/8" with 3" collectors I got these thinking they were still the stainless works ones only to find out these were the knock offs hawks was selling. the welds are good but the jig is setup wrong. the drivers side header is closer than I prefer but has better ground clearance than the hooker long tubes the passenger header is all wrong. hangs low, hits the sub frame and almost touches the bell housing. i don't think I can correct the ground clearance on it with out heating the primary tubes and bending the header.


also had to grind the flange about half inch just to get the temp sender in. if i need a socket to fit i better grind more off

im very disappointed had I known all this I would have modified the hooker headers or copied them for an ls1

 

Just put a set of the knockoffs in and had no trouble with the subframe clearance on either side. 1 5/8" x 3" collectors too with a 4L60E

Drivers collector needed 3" cut off to be able to build a Y-pipe to clear the shift linkage. Pass side HO2 needed to be moved downstream. Pass side hangs a little low. No other problems aside from the shady seller. The CTS thing seems obvious and most headers to account for this but its so minor I dont consider it an issue. Headers always have a notch this, grind that, dent there kind of fitment

 

knock offs?

 

+1, knock-offs?? Did someone manage to fit LT's in from another company?

 

its thought hawks made these polished 1 5/8" headers in house or by someone other than stainless works. they copied the routing but as you can tell they do have some fitment issues.


all the other brands ive had never fit this bad. yeah some things are expected to a point but the flange wasn't even close to fitting by the temp sensor. using spohn mounts brand new gm rubber mounts they should fit fine.

 

Hawks doesnt make much of anything with their name in-house

The SSW headers are made by SSW and he welds his nameplate on there
Knockoffs are made in china and imported by Hawks. I posted several pictures comparing a known China knockoff vs the Hawks knockoff and everything looked the same. Same guy probably welded them both

Post some pics of where its tight and subframe contact

 

who ever makes them I will say the welding was to notch on mine

 

He does seem to be quite the artist with the TIG, but it doesnt make up for a crappy jig and bad design

 

My polished set FIT fine, had to grind off some of the driver flange so it wouldn't touch the coolant temp sensor though. The flanges started rusting on me so I paid the upgrade to the 1 3/4" SSW headers, just got them in today. Can't wait to get them in the car and have the y pipe redone.

 

Hi,
I wanted to respond to the above comment, we have installed 10-15 sets of these headers in house and they have fit great, some cars the frame rail does seem to swing in a bit and trimming of the extra long collector is needed as the frame rail swings back the space gets VERY TIGHT to get the y pipe in the small space, with all of the sets i have installed EVERY ONE seems to fit SLIGHTLY different I dont understand why but it is in fact that way.
What really suprises me is how some of the members of this board wantt a less exspensive swap header or a header in general and when something seems to fit too tight or not just be PERFECT a post is made about how are parts are JUNK and a call is NEVER made to speak with anyone at the shop to see if we can help you rectify the problem, I think anyone of our customers can tell you we want your satisfaction first and foremost but there is a right and wrong way to handle things. Come one guys we are here to help supply you good quality parts not to send you as you call JUNK! Please feel free to call me and discuss any issues any of you have so we can try to fix the problem. Thank you
Bruce Hawkins
www.hawksthirdgenparts.com

 

^^ you..must..start..making..a.. 1 7/8.. header..again!!!

 

I ready do think the header is a bit pricey. and if they are a china made product thats just more reason I would think these are on the high side. but I bought them because I figured they would for the most part drop right in. was not too upest with the trimming of the flange for the coolant temp sensor but it does add to the fustration of the fit.
Ive had slp 3rdgen shorty headers, headman, hooker shorty and long tubes and have installed many on other thirdgens including the not so good edelbrock thirdgen headers. all these fit great with the exception of the slp shorties when I tried them on my angle plug afr heads (made sense given they were made for strait plug heads) the hooker long tubes were a great fit and never bottomed out.

I plan to remove the headers tonight or tomorrow and try to fix the issues. i just tried fixing them today in the car with no luck.

if the problem is from the collectors being swept back to far then why not remedy this?




same goes for the tight fit near the frame rail to begin with. I understand the automatics need the header closer to the frame rail but placing the collectors closer to the bell housing would still allow the automatic users to make there exhaust work

and third the passenger side hangs very low. the entire primary is visible past the frame.



I would call during the day but my hours at work do not allow me time to call during your business hours