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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
i am gathering parts to put an aluminum gen 4 5.3 into my IROC.
-using ICT Billet motor mount adapters and a stock F body oil pan and crank pulley.
-i will be keeping the 700r4 for now, so i need a solution for the tv cable to the throttle body. i already have the torque converter adapter situation figured out.
-picked up stock F body PS pump and bracket and an ICT Billet alternator bracket the other day, and am looking at the Holley R4 compressor bracket- does anyone have a review/pic of this drive setup? not really a fan of the alt bracket since i prefer things to be as stock looking as possible, so i might order a stock alt bracket since they are cheap enough.
-got a deal on a new TBSS intake, and just happened to have a set of the good truck flex fuel injectors in a busted up intake i had sitting around. looking at 92mm 4 bolt cable throttle bodies. will this clear a stock hood? i do have a flat hood that i cut much of the bracing out of to clear an air cleaner on my previous car if that would clear.
-car already has a 99-02 plastic fuel tank and pump in it.
-trying to decide between Holley Terminator or Fitech controllers, any real world pros and cons of each system is appreciated.
-have a set of F body manifolds, truck manifolds, and TBSS manifolds. which of these not only fit into the car but are least restrictive on a ~450hp engine? i'd like to go headers, but 1 3/4" primary swap headers are hard to find and i really don't need 1 7/8" tubes at this power level..
Holley has been leading the aftermarket efi game from the go which will also make it easier to find a tuner that is familiar with it. Get the dod stuff all deleted and vvt if equipped.
i've been thru all the stickies on this forum and none of my questions were answered.
regarding headers: i want new, but $600-$700 is a bit much when the bigger headers can be had for half as much from various places. i guess everyone just buys the too big headers..
i've been thru all the stickies on this forum and none of my questions were answered.
regarding headers: i want new, but $600-$700 is a bit much when the bigger headers can be had for half as much from various places. i guess everyone just buys the too big headers..
Either size header will suffice. However, the Holley Blackheart series can be had in the 1-3/4" size and I believe speed engineering can as well. The speed engineering units have a low cost of entry but aren't as well fitting and sexy as the Holley units. Kooks also makes a mid length header for these cars which is just under $1k. BPR hotrods as well has options. I wouldn't use exhaust manifolds.
One of the long tube headers in the list is $225 (Racing Innovations). Don't know anything about those, just know they exist.
those are the ones i want, but their website shows them as currently unavailable. probably stuck on a container ship off the coast of California.
i am normally a proponent of buying quality American made parts, but when these are $225 and the rest are like $700 and up, i will make an exception and put the $475 saved into other areas.
+1 on the Holley. I am very satisfied with mine. It may be in your best interest to get a Term X Max for future electronic transmission control. I also have a flat hood and my factory gen 3 truck intake clears, but I have the smaller throttle body and it's close. My mounts are slid all the way back. I did not have to cut up the underside of my hood. As @ShiftyCapone mentioned, my 1 - 7/8" speed engineering headers fit is ok at best, but for the price I cannot complain. They are really close to the passenger "frame rail" and the drivers side lca mount, and not a whole lot of clearance underneath especially if you are lowered. If you have to go over speed bumps where you drive, I would avoid them.
+1 on the Holley. I am very satisfied with mine. It may be in your best interest to get a Term X Max for future electronic transmission control. I also have a flat hood and my factory gen 3 truck intake clears, but I have the smaller throttle body and it's close. My mounts are slid all the way back. I did not have to cut up the underside of my hood. As @ShiftyCapone mentioned, my 1 - 7/8" speed engineering headers fit is ok at best, but for the price I cannot complain. They are really close to the passenger "frame rail" and the drivers side lca mount, and not a whole lot of clearance underneath especially if you are lowered. If you have to go over speed bumps where you drive, I would avoid them.
i won't need any transmission control once i swap in some flavor of manual transmission in the future. the 700r4 that's in the car currently will be set up to lockup whenever it shifts into overdrive until that swap happens.
Last edited by novaderrik; Mar 24, 2022 at 10:15 PM.
-just ordered the speed engineering headers so that can be crossed off my list. they had good reviews everywhere and a few dyno tests i found put them as slightly better all over than the big $$$ stuff that they were likely copied from. should sound nice with my X pipe and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. my neighbors will love me.
-my 92mm cable driven throttle body and cable bracket showed up today, just need to fab up the tv cable stuff, which won't be too hard.
-leaning really hard towards the Holley Terminator X 550-905 controller with maybe the fuel pressure sensor and the flexfuel sensor added on so i can play with E85.
-will start ordering the internal engine stuff as soon as it gets a bit more consistently warm out in the garage and things don't flash rust within hours of being taken out of the package. that way i can slam it into the car as soon as i get it together.
i'm starting to feel a bit giddy, since i haven't done this much cool go fast car stuff since i built my Nova over 20 years ago.
-just ordered the speed engineering headers so that can be crossed off my list.
Good decision. Exhaust has always been an expensive part of the LS swap into our cars unless you could build your own stuff. A lot of the choices you have now didn't exist not too many years ago.
Wiring and fuel system are two other things that get out of control fast. Think that one out pretty good before you buy stuff or it will nickel and dime you to death. Stuff like -AN fittings and wiring loom are stupid expensive.
Originally Posted by novaderrik
i want new, but $600-$700 is a bit much when the bigger headers can be had for half as much from various places. i guess everyone just buys the too big headers..
FYI - you bought yourself the "too big" headers just like everyone else.
(I'm just poking a little fun)
+1
Almost any Power-Train/ Engine System can become extremely expensive.
Exhaust Systems can get extremely expensive with Titanium Tubing, Carbon Gaskets, EGT Probes, Internal and External Ceramic Coatings, and Specialty Fasteners with Safety-Wire Locks.
Fuel Systems can be super elaborate (or any Fluid System for that matter) and expensive and detailed, just as Electrical Systems can.
All these Systems can go on forever and never actually be finished!
There is just by far, way too much detail that can be completed... to all of these Systems!
It never Ends!
All these Systems can go on forever and never actually be finished!
Truth!!!
I've done my fuel system twice and will have to do it again. Brake lines 3 times. Now I'm likely to get into oil plumbing. It's a learning process and a perpetual hobby. Doesn't happen all at once and the car really never is finished.
An $99 fuel pump like the aeromotive stealth can be used in tank, quietly, 10,000 run hours, and it supports 750bhp using 5/16" Fuel line on gasoline.
Use a regulator in the engine bay with a vacuum reference no matter what kind of fuel rail you use.
Use the factory fuel rails if you can and use braided hose or rubber hose with hose clamps everywhere including at the fuel tank like the factory does,
... do not use AN fittings and crap. Completely unnecessary < 700bhp even with alcohol fuel.
Try to integrate flex fuel to your setup.
You can use $50 OEM ecu with HPtuners to control up to 1000rwhp or more, with flex, no need for stand-alone unless actually racing with milieu external features.
411 computer is popular with gen3 externals gen4 internals engine "L33" 5.3L Aluminum ideal for performance vehicles. Use this LS engine for best results.
Basically the fuel system should cost $150 and the computer to run the engine should be like $75 this is the cheapest part of the LS swap
An $99 fuel pump like the aeromotive stealth can be used in tank, quietly, 10,000 run hours, and it supports 750bhp using 5/16" Fuel line on gasoline.
Use a regulator in the engine bay with a vacuum reference no matter what kind of fuel rail you use.
Use the factory fuel rails if you can and use braided hose or rubber hose with hose clamps everywhere including at the fuel tank like the factory does,
... do not use AN fittings and crap. Completely unnecessary < 700bhp even with alcohol fuel.
Try to integrate flex fuel to your setup.
You can use $50 OEM ecu with HPtuners to control up to 1000rwhp or more, with flex, no need for stand-alone unless actually racing with milieu external features.
411 computer is popular with gen3 externals gen4 internals engine "L33" 5.3L Aluminum ideal for performance vehicles. Use this LS engine for best results.
Basically the fuel system should cost $150 and the computer to run the engine should be like $75 this is the cheapest part of the LS swap
i thought about going with a stock computer and harness since i have 2 friends with HP Tuners licenses, but that would require either trimming all the fat out of a stock harness or buying one already done. the Holley stuff makes sense for me since i'm long past my days of having tons of free time to screw around with wires and i'm just flat out getting lazy and impatient in my old age.
i will try to run the fuel pump that's in the car now at first- it came with the gas tank out of a 60k mile 02 Camaro SS- along with a set of stock 5.3 truck fuel rails and flexfuel injectors that i have, but i'm looking at getting the Racetronix fuel system upgrade kit that comes with a bigger Walbbro pump and a hotwire kit if it can't keep up. the only issue might be that the stock regulator doesn't operate at the 60psi that the Holley system wants, so there might be some creativity going on with that..
Run a referenced regulator in the engine bay and use a base fuel pressure of 34 to 38psi.
Holley says they want 60psi on the Terminator X system. still thinking about that..
worked out the tv cable setup for the 700r4, starting with a throttle cable bracket that i bought and welding a tv cable mount to it, which i located using a mockup cable i had laying around that is hooked to an arm i made and mounted to the throttle lever.. the measurements and angle were based off looking at the TPI throttle body on the L98 that's in the car. cable travel is almost identical to the stock setup in the car, so i can cross that off my to-do list. just need to clean up some welds and shoot some black paint on the bracket.
why doesn't someone sell this premade for the TBSS intake?
As long as you input the injector data correctly, and input the actual system pressure correctly, that is all that matters.
Next, reasons
You run the lowest fuel pressure possible with a referenced regulator because
1. Keeps fuel cooler
2. Pump will last longer
3. Pump flows the most fuel
4. Easier to idle tune
5. Takes stress off all fuel system components
6. Allows low base pressure to be adequate for boost setups
7. ____________________ <--- there has to be more
Last edited by Kingtal0n; Apr 2, 2022 at 12:14 PM.
i figured as much about the fuel pressure, but the manual for the system says nothing about inputting the actual fuel pressure, it just says that it needs to be 60psi. i don't have the system yet so i can't actually play with that stuff yet, but i downloaded and read thru the manuals last weekend.
so i guess for now, i just need to figure out how to hook the fuel lines in the car up to the lines on the fuel rail. luckily, Dorman makes the stuff for that and it is available at any parts store relatively cheap.
Dead head systems like stock tend to run around 58 psi. Dead head means the regulator is before the fuel rails and the fuel that passes through to the engine has nowhere to go but into the engine. The high fuel pressure prevents vapor lock and promotes fuel atomization. This is entirely acceptable at the power levels you'll be running.
Full return systems allow for more precise fuel delivery but it's not necessary for what you have. These are full flow systems (all fuel goes through fuel rails) and tend to run lower pressure around 43 psi. The pump will deliver more fuel but the injectors have to be upsized to deliver the same amount of fuel. Basically you'll run out of injector sooner. Again, not necessary at your power level. Yes, you can.... but your wallet won't like it.
If you have future plans for a turbo then you'll be doing the full return system sooner or later.
finally got my last shipment of parts from Summit today.
finishing up mocking up some fuel lines to hook up to the stock lines on the engine stand tonight after work, then tomorrow i will start putting the engine together.
is the Terminator X harness long enough to mount the ecu in the stock location under the dash using the stock hole for the TPI harness, or am i looking at drilling a hole for that?
how is access to the rearmost header bolt and sparkplug on the passenger side? i might just put the non AC heater box from my old car on the car and set all the AC stuff on the shelf to go back on later if i decide that i actually need AC.
finally got my last shipment of parts from Summit today.
There is never a last shipment. I still find myself making summit and rockauto orders every month. You always need new swaybar end links or heater hoses or a heater core...
Dead head systems like stock tend to run around 58 psi. Dead head means the regulator is before the fuel rails and the fuel that passes through to the engine has nowhere to go but into the engine. The high fuel pressure prevents vapor lock and promotes fuel atomization. This is entirely acceptable at the power levels you'll be running.
Full return systems allow for more precise fuel delivery but it's not necessary for what you have. These are full flow systems (all fuel goes through fuel rails) and tend to run lower pressure around 43 psi. The pump will deliver more fuel but the injectors have to be upsized to deliver the same amount of fuel. Basically you'll run out of injector sooner. Again, not necessary at your power level. Yes, you can.... but your wallet won't like it.
If you have future plans for a turbo then you'll be doing the full return system sooner or later.
I'm not nitpicking your description, it was adequate given the context. I just want the guy to be 100% clear about what he is dealing with, the situation, the parts.
1. When we say Returnless, deadhead system, they still have a return line, its just at the back of the vehicle, near the fuel tank. Too far from the engine to get a vacuum line I guess.
The only truly returnless fuel feed system I know of is the Direct Injection in-tank pump system, which is controlled via PWM by a Fuel Computer which monitors pressure and drives the fuel pump at high frequency to maintain some constant fuel line pressure with no real return line.
2. Every 15psi or so of fuel pressure raises the boiling point of majority if it's compounds by approx 10 to 15*C, but gasoline is a widely disparate mixture and if you are 10*C away from boiling your gasoline there are bigger problems that need to be dealt with.
3. Atomization isn't really important because at low speed conditions the fuel will be injected to the back of a closed intake valve where it will sit briefly as a liquid and boil away. In theory you want poor atomization (controlled liquid spray) in this condition because if some of the fuel vaporizes too quickly it will have time to travel up the runner and into the plenum where another cylinder will steal it, causing a loss of economy and fuel smell. The correct injection time period is part of tuning the injector and you want the fuel to sit just long enough to boil then the valve opens, and never spray into an open intake valve at high vacuum conditions because the liquid won't have the energy to boil rapidly, and will wash the oil from the cylinder wall causing engine wear. At wot some people will phase the injectors to fire during intake stroke to take advantage of peak piston velocity which provides the energy to rapidly vaporize fuel.
4. I use a dead-head fuel rail on my 600rwhp daily driver, which sits in traffic at 38psi of fuel pressure. It has an underhood, referenced regulator as well, with a return line all the way back to the tank.
Therefore, return systems and dead head fuel rails are not mutually exclusive. You can mix and match how the return is accomplished, it can be off the rail, or off the regulator to the side, or use multiple lines etc... your imagination.
i appreciate all the fuel system advice, but to keep it nice and simple i'm hooking up my 5.3 truck fuel rails to the stock TPI lines on the car.. i flipped the rails around so the regulator and fittings are on the passenger side pointing forward and made some custom plastic and steel pressure and return lines that go over to the driver's side head and will hopefully hook right up to the existing lines on the car.. the stock pump that is in the 02 fuel tank that is in the car will hopefully keep up.. if not, Racetronix makes a nice looking fuel pump and wiring upgrade that i will get.
as of sunday, the engine is together and ready to go in except for the balancer bolt, which no one around here stocks so it will be here in a day or two. engine should go in the car within a couple of weeks.
motor is in the car, just hooking stuff up.
-had to clearance the flange on the AC box a bit for the rearmost coil, and still need to finish up a bracket to slighty relocate that coil up and towards the front of the car to clear like i want.
-headers fit nicely, except for the part i had to sawzall off the trans case for clearance. my 5 year old daughter helped install passenger side header by holding the collector up so i could start the rear bolt..
-hood clearance will be an issue, but i had a good helper trying to take care of that for me. she's on it.
-the Holley Terminator wiring fell into place like it was designed for the car. perfect length to put the ecu right where the stocker was. just need to make a pass thru plate that fits the stock hole.
-i wanted to leave the TPI harness intact for use in my girlfriend's 64 C10, but those engineers had other ideas. i had to do some butchery to separate the engine wires from what the car needs going forward. not a great design on their part, but saved some cash at the factory i suppose.
waiting on a couple of oddball things and need to do exhaust and some wiring and plumbing, but should fire up next weekend.
I had no idea that some of you guys use the "Returnless/ Dead-head" Terms as such.
To me, these Terms would only apply to common Carburetor applications...
or some of the GM Injection Systems that use a Fuel Pump Control Module and no Return Line of any kind.
i won't need any transmission control once i swap in some flavor of manual transmission in the future. the 700r4 that's in the car currently will be set up to lockup whenever it shifts into overdrive until that swap happens.
Many years ago I attempted to use the 700r4. At that time, I made some small accommodations to the bracket on the throttle body and got the TV cable hooked up pretty easily. The challenge came in getting the right signal to the 411 ECU so that I could get a working speedometer on the other end. I'm assuming that the Holley Terminator has you covered and it can take the factory 700r4 signal and give you a working speedometer signal to use?
I did find a workaround at the time from Jags that Run I believe (external VSS, mounted on the rear end with a gear on the driveshaft...it was definitely going to catch things going down the road). It would have worked, but I ended up blowing the transmission up and went with a 4L60e so never really tested the setup out.
I had no idea that some of you guys use the "Returnless/ Dead-head" Terms as such.
To me, these Terms would only apply to common Carburetor applications...
or some of the GM Injection Systems that use a Fuel Pump Control Module and no Return Line of any kind.
Common fuel rail for LS application are dead-head. See mine,
Just a feed inlet only. So the fuel gradually heating up, no escape. Air collects at the ends. Its awful in theory. Has its quarks. When you shut off the hot engine, air in the ends expands while it heat soaks and fuel leaves the rail completely, have to re-prime 2.25 seconds instead of 0.700 seconds like when its cold.
That is dead head, super annoying. But it still works well with 600rwhp gasoline and the less fuel connections means less chance for leaking fuel, a very simple single fuel fitting Russel only. Which is why i keep using it and probably won't "upgrade" to the more risky multiple AN fittings/hoses style with integrated return, the reduced prime time when hot isn't worth the trade.
Safety & Reliability > Performance
Many years ago I attempted to use the 700r4. At that time, I made some small accommodations to the bracket on the throttle body and got the TV cable hooked up pretty easily. The challenge came in getting the right signal to the 411 ECU so that I could get a working speedometer on the other end. I'm assuming that the Holley Terminator has you covered and it can take the factory 700r4 signal and give you a working speedometer signal to use?
I did find a workaround at the time from Jags that Run I believe (external VSS, mounted on the rear end with a gear on the driveshaft...it was definitely going to catch things going down the road). It would have worked, but I ended up blowing the transmission up and went with a 4L60e so never really tested the setup out.
my car has a speedo cable so the speedo operation will be unaffected by this, and the Terminator controller i am using has no input for a VSS signal anyways. i might try to trick the ecm into locking up the converter by setting up an output to trigger a relay that activates the tcc under certain rpms and trottle inputs, but run the circuit thru the 4th gear pressure switch so it only does it in 4th gear.. but that's for later after i get used to the system.
Does the Terminator ECM have a frequency type input? If so, you might be able to fool the ECM into understanding the VSS signal by using a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to convert the VSS signal into an AC square wave. ECM will interpret that as a hall-effect speed sensor and understand it. It won't have any of the Transmission config features, but it is a custom input you can use to calculate MPH.
I do that with my car using the Holley HP ECM. I use the MPH reading to operate my transmission reverse gear lockout solenoid. You might be able to do something similar to operate the converter lockup. Can use it for other things like shutting off radiator fan on highway, imagination is the limit.
status update:
had everything in the car and hooked up on saturday, ready to fire up..
turn on key, handheld display flickers to life.. then resets over and over again.
LED lights on Terminator box itself all show good.. it appears handheld is bad. i don't own a laptop to do it that way without the handheld, and didn't have time to call Holley before work.
so it sits, waiting..
update: the non functioning touchscreen was a result of using the stock switched power wire that used to power up the stock ecm to power up the Holley unit.. it apparently didn't have enough juice.. the fix was to power it with the stock coil power wire under the hood. the Holley tech guy didn't even try to troubleshoot it when i called, just said to have Summit send out a new one. but Summit didn't even have the screen as a valid part number, so they sent out a whole new unit for me to swap screens.. when the new one did the same thing, i figured i'd just try a different power source and it was fixed.
the cheap no name laptop i originally ordered from Amazon was junk, so i returned it and got a slightly less cheap HP from WalMart that works.
the default tune that the handheld spit out after putting everything into it was junk- extremely rich with very retarded timing, but got it running.. at which time i discovered a valvetrain noise that i chased down to some of the rocker arms hitting the valve covers..
anyways, i finally got it to the point where it would idle in gear by leaning the idle way out from what the Holley software spit out and throwing a bunch of timing at it and let it learn at idle and with different throttle inputs with the brake held.. so i drove it like 45 miles yesterday and today and could actually feel it getting better as it learned. it didn't feel fast, but the *** end got kind of squirrelly and 60mph came pretty fast, so it must be running alright. need to work on off idle throttle response not being as snappy as i'd like, but that shouldn't be too hard. and the 700r4 doesn't seem like it likes having like double the power of the L98 going thru it, so i'll have to see how that holds up..
Here are my targets from a 427 with 12 or 13:1 compression I tuned a few months ago
Its one reason why you need the laptop
Target 15's 15.0 to 15.5 is good for cruise, do you know already? Keeps the plugs clean, keeps carbon coating out of cylinders.
This thing was high compression so the targets are 'safer' than usual. If you aren't 12:1 compression you can probably get more power from gasoline @ 12.5's WOT.
But at low rpm and peak torque I still rush 12.0 for various reasons.
i've been playing with fast cars for over 30 years, but i've always tuned carbs with a vacuum gauge, screwdriver, and timing light and never used a wideband so i am figuring out which numbers to chase. i made a lot of progress this past weekend, and it's just down to refining things and figuring out what the engine wants at this point.
finally got the car going again after taking care of a minor exhaust valve to piston issue in a way that would probably make some of you faint..
getting the efi thing figured out, but the Holley default maps are junk.
just trying to figure out how to get snappy throttle response off idle in gear with a cam that really wants a 3000 stall converter but has a stock 89 IROC converter..
injector timing is the root cause of poor throttle response when the a/f ratio is correct with decent timing.
It should be 13:1 to 12.8:1 below 3000rpm 85KPA to 105KPA with no more than say 17* of timing. Probably more like 12* with a heavy vehicle and low gearing at 2000rpm. Just like a distributor with a mechanical advance set to 24 total it would be something like 14* near off idle regions just beginning to throw some advance in gradually. You can all in timing 22* to 24* by 2800rpm. Never use more than 24* of timing anywhere after 80KPA to 105KPA unless you are at the dyno and trying to find out why I said that
injector timing is the root cause of poor throttle response when the a/f ratio is correct with decent timing.
It should be 13:1 to 12.8:1 below 3000rpm 85KPA to 105KPA with no more than say 17* of timing. Probably more like 12* with a heavy vehicle and low gearing at 2000rpm. Just like a distributor with a mechanical advance set to 24 total it would be something like 14* near off idle regions just beginning to throw some advance in gradually. You can all in timing 22* to 24* by 2800rpm. Never use more than 24* of timing anywhere after 80KPA to 105KPA unless you are at the dyno and trying to find out why I said that
the supplied fuel and spark maps look a lot like that, but the car literally won't run with those maps. it just dies after a second and spits a bunch of raw fuel out the exhaust as i crank it.
i was playing with things at idle today and it wants like 42 degrees of timing and almost 15:1 afr just to idle and not die when put into gear, and anything less than 28 degrees at 1/2 to WFO makes it just lazy.
not that i'm really beating on it yet, but sometimes it gets up there in first gear, then gets a little slideways on the upshift to second..
i've got the light throttle cruise pretty well dialed in- it will run 30mph in third gear at like 1300 rpm and about 6% throttle with the target afr set at 15:1 and 42 degrees with no surge at all, and does 60mph in 4th gear at 2000ish rpm with about the same settings. any leaner or any less timing and it has a slight surge in both cases.
i haven't even touched the accleration enrichment stuff yet, but it's pretty snappy off idle in park or neutral but kind of soggy in gear so i think it just needs a higher stall converter. i'm looking at maybe a TKX 5 speed swap next year so i really don't want to do that right now.
just for kicks yesterday, i took my 02 Suburban with an 06 5.3 in it that is essentially the same as the 5.3 in my Camaro except for the cam for a drive while i had my torque app showing me the spark advance and injector duty cycles as i drove it just to get an idea what the LS platform wants, and it was showing me numbers very similar to what i was winding up with on the 3.5" screen in the Camaro, so i think i'm on the right track for at least the part throttle stuff.
I think LS engines idle somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 - 20 degrees spark advance.
What procedure did you use to set the idle stop screw for base air flow and how much IAC are you using at idle?
And how did you find piston TDC when you installed the cam? Your story kind of suggests the cam is installed wrong.
Would be worth compression test 1 cylinder look for a good number to see the cam install
Idle is 13 to 18 no more than 22 generally
Sounds like injector timing is way off and the 'raw fuel' suggest incorrect injector size and/or fuel pressure setting
or leaking injectors
You must use high quality injectors... either Fuel injector clinic or Injector dynamics... or OEM freshly cleaned confirmed OEM (not new OEM which are often fakes)
I would confirm quality injectors... compression test... pressure test the intake for leaking.... play with injector timing.. make sure fuel pressure is 40-50psi or whatever you think it is
Half asleep so keep thinking and cya later
You always need new swaybar end links or heater hoses or a heater core... 
