Need some help installing an alarm system..
04-03-2008, 10:34 PM
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Car: 1988 Iroc-z28
Engine: 5.7 350
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Axle/Gears: 2.77
Need some help installing an alarm system..
I was wondering if anyone would be willing to help me install an Avital Avistart DEI 4400 2-way LCD Alarm/Remote start in my 88 camaro. I've never done this before
but I really want to learn how
! I'll even buy the lunch =).
I'm about 1 mile from Springfield mall.
-Nate
but I really want to learn how! I'll even buy the lunch =). I'm about 1 mile from Springfield mall.
-Nate
04-05-2008, 12:11 AM
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Car: 1988 Iroc-z28
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04-05-2008, 05:36 AM
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Re: Need some help installing an alarm system..
I'd be more than willing to help, for lunch, and a plane ticket to get there...
best I can do though is offer some tips.
Same image is attached below.
Always test the wires once you find them. Even though it matches what you see on the chart above, you still need to test the wire, to make sure. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital meter.
If the VATS system is still intact and working on your car, you will need a module to be able to use the remote start feature.
Here's one, but you may be able to find one cheaper, or perhaps local.
There are T-harnesses available to make this a bit easier. I wish I could say "plug and play" but it's still not that simple.
A few tips off the top of my head are as follows:
Solder every connection you make. Don't use splice connectors.
Double tape every connection. Wrap your tape going one way, then wrap the second piece going to opposite way.
Hide the "brain" of the unit as far up inside the dash as you can manage. There may be convenient places off to the sides of the column, but you do not want a thief to be able to easily access it.
If the unit features NPT (nuisance prevention technology) turn it off, and set your shock sensor correctly. On most alarms it is on by default, and poses a security risk.
Bench prep your system. Mount the brain to a solid surface like your workbench. Go through the book, and find where the wires you will be using go. Cut them to the approximate length, leaving some extra to be trimmed once you're inside the car. Find the wires you won't be using and cut them short, say 4 inches or so, and then tape the ends of each one. Don't wad them together and tape them, do each one on it's own, then you can bundle all of the cut ones. Resist the urge to pull the pins, instead of cutting those unused wires. You may find you made a mistake and need one, or you may add a component later, that requires one or more of them. Bundle the wires that will be going to the similar locations. Ignition harness for example. You will have maybe 4 or 5 or even more. I've always used a drill for this. Put all the wires you want to bundle in the chuck of the drill, and spin it slowly. When it starts to "fold up" on itself, they're tight enough. Take them out of the chuck, let them relax, then wrap tape around them going from the brain, to within a few inches of the ends. This will make the install much cleaner.
Mount your shock sensor on a movable surface. Strapped to a loom of wire is a good idea. You want the object that you mount it to, to be movable. When the vehicle is bumped, the wires in it move, and will transfer this motion to the shock sensor much better, than a solid surface would.
Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head. If any of this seems too intimidating, or you don't have at least a basic understanding of what's going on, you may want to continue seeking some knowledgeable help. If you decide to pay someone do it, you can still use the information above, to let them know what you expect. Tell them, hide the unit good, don't pull pins, solder it in, wrap everything good (make it look factory). Don't get taken advantage of. Let them know what you expect, and that you will be checking. Once the unit is installed, ask for a full demonstration.
I hope this helps out some. Again though, you send me a ticket, and I'd be glad to come help!
best I can do though is offer some tips.
Same image is attached below.
Always test the wires once you find them. Even though it matches what you see on the chart above, you still need to test the wire, to make sure. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital meter.
If the VATS system is still intact and working on your car, you will need a module to be able to use the remote start feature.
Here's one, but you may be able to find one cheaper, or perhaps local.
There are T-harnesses available to make this a bit easier. I wish I could say "plug and play" but it's still not that simple.
A few tips off the top of my head are as follows:
Solder every connection you make. Don't use splice connectors.
Double tape every connection. Wrap your tape going one way, then wrap the second piece going to opposite way.
Hide the "brain" of the unit as far up inside the dash as you can manage. There may be convenient places off to the sides of the column, but you do not want a thief to be able to easily access it.
If the unit features NPT (nuisance prevention technology) turn it off, and set your shock sensor correctly. On most alarms it is on by default, and poses a security risk.
Bench prep your system. Mount the brain to a solid surface like your workbench. Go through the book, and find where the wires you will be using go. Cut them to the approximate length, leaving some extra to be trimmed once you're inside the car. Find the wires you won't be using and cut them short, say 4 inches or so, and then tape the ends of each one. Don't wad them together and tape them, do each one on it's own, then you can bundle all of the cut ones. Resist the urge to pull the pins, instead of cutting those unused wires. You may find you made a mistake and need one, or you may add a component later, that requires one or more of them. Bundle the wires that will be going to the similar locations. Ignition harness for example. You will have maybe 4 or 5 or even more. I've always used a drill for this. Put all the wires you want to bundle in the chuck of the drill, and spin it slowly. When it starts to "fold up" on itself, they're tight enough. Take them out of the chuck, let them relax, then wrap tape around them going from the brain, to within a few inches of the ends. This will make the install much cleaner.
Mount your shock sensor on a movable surface. Strapped to a loom of wire is a good idea. You want the object that you mount it to, to be movable. When the vehicle is bumped, the wires in it move, and will transfer this motion to the shock sensor much better, than a solid surface would.
Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head. If any of this seems too intimidating, or you don't have at least a basic understanding of what's going on, you may want to continue seeking some knowledgeable help. If you decide to pay someone do it, you can still use the information above, to let them know what you expect. Tell them, hide the unit good, don't pull pins, solder it in, wrap everything good (make it look factory). Don't get taken advantage of. Let them know what you expect, and that you will be checking. Once the unit is installed, ask for a full demonstration.
I hope this helps out some. Again though, you send me a ticket, and I'd be glad to come help!
04-05-2008, 12:35 PM
#6
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Car: 1988 Iroc-z28
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Need some help installing an alarm system..
I'd be more than willing to help, for lunch, and a plane ticket to get there...
best I can do though is offer some tips.
Same image is attached below.
Always test the wires once you find them. Even though it matches what you see on the chart above, you still need to test the wire, to make sure. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital meter.
If the VATS system is still intact and working on your car, you will need a module to be able to use the remote start feature.
Here's one, but you may be able to find one cheaper, or perhaps local.
There are T-harnesses available to make this a bit easier. I wish I could say "plug and play" but it's still not that simple.
A few tips off the top of my head are as follows:
Solder every connection you make. Don't use splice connectors.
Double tape every connection. Wrap your tape going one way, then wrap the second piece going to opposite way.
Hide the "brain" of the unit as far up inside the dash as you can manage. There may be convenient places off to the sides of the column, but you do not want a thief to be able to easily access it.
If the unit features NPT (nuisance prevention technology) turn it off, and set your shock sensor correctly. On most alarms it is on by default, and poses a security risk.
Bench prep your system. Mount the brain to a solid surface like your workbench. Go through the book, and find where the wires you will be using go. Cut them to the approximate length, leaving some extra to be trimmed once you're inside the car. Find the wires you won't be using and cut them short, say 4 inches or so, and then tape the ends of each one. Don't wad them together and tape them, do each one on it's own, then you can bundle all of the cut ones. Resist the urge to pull the pins, instead of cutting those unused wires. You may find you made a mistake and need one, or you may add a component later, that requires one or more of them. Bundle the wires that will be going to the similar locations. Ignition harness for example. You will have maybe 4 or 5 or even more. I've always used a drill for this. Put all the wires you want to bundle in the chuck of the drill, and spin it slowly. When it starts to "fold up" on itself, they're tight enough. Take them out of the chuck, let them relax, then wrap tape around them going from the brain, to within a few inches of the ends. This will make the install much cleaner.
Mount your shock sensor on a movable surface. Strapped to a loom of wire is a good idea. You want the object that you mount it to, to be movable. When the vehicle is bumped, the wires in it move, and will transfer this motion to the shock sensor much better, than a solid surface would.
Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head. If any of this seems too intimidating, or you don't have at least a basic understanding of what's going on, you may want to continue seeking some knowledgeable help. If you decide to pay someone do it, you can still use the information above, to let them know what you expect. Tell them, hide the unit good, don't pull pins, solder it in, wrap everything good (make it look factory). Don't get taken advantage of. Let them know what you expect, and that you will be checking. Once the unit is installed, ask for a full demonstration.
I hope this helps out some. Again though, you send me a ticket, and I'd be glad to come help!
best I can do though is offer some tips.
Same image is attached below.
Always test the wires once you find them. Even though it matches what you see on the chart above, you still need to test the wire, to make sure. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital meter.
If the VATS system is still intact and working on your car, you will need a module to be able to use the remote start feature.
Here's one, but you may be able to find one cheaper, or perhaps local.
There are T-harnesses available to make this a bit easier. I wish I could say "plug and play" but it's still not that simple.
A few tips off the top of my head are as follows:
Solder every connection you make. Don't use splice connectors.
Double tape every connection. Wrap your tape going one way, then wrap the second piece going to opposite way.
Hide the "brain" of the unit as far up inside the dash as you can manage. There may be convenient places off to the sides of the column, but you do not want a thief to be able to easily access it.
If the unit features NPT (nuisance prevention technology) turn it off, and set your shock sensor correctly. On most alarms it is on by default, and poses a security risk.
Bench prep your system. Mount the brain to a solid surface like your workbench. Go through the book, and find where the wires you will be using go. Cut them to the approximate length, leaving some extra to be trimmed once you're inside the car. Find the wires you won't be using and cut them short, say 4 inches or so, and then tape the ends of each one. Don't wad them together and tape them, do each one on it's own, then you can bundle all of the cut ones. Resist the urge to pull the pins, instead of cutting those unused wires. You may find you made a mistake and need one, or you may add a component later, that requires one or more of them. Bundle the wires that will be going to the similar locations. Ignition harness for example. You will have maybe 4 or 5 or even more. I've always used a drill for this. Put all the wires you want to bundle in the chuck of the drill, and spin it slowly. When it starts to "fold up" on itself, they're tight enough. Take them out of the chuck, let them relax, then wrap tape around them going from the brain, to within a few inches of the ends. This will make the install much cleaner.
Mount your shock sensor on a movable surface. Strapped to a loom of wire is a good idea. You want the object that you mount it to, to be movable. When the vehicle is bumped, the wires in it move, and will transfer this motion to the shock sensor much better, than a solid surface would.
Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head. If any of this seems too intimidating, or you don't have at least a basic understanding of what's going on, you may want to continue seeking some knowledgeable help. If you decide to pay someone do it, you can still use the information above, to let them know what you expect. Tell them, hide the unit good, don't pull pins, solder it in, wrap everything good (make it look factory). Don't get taken advantage of. Let them know what you expect, and that you will be checking. Once the unit is installed, ask for a full demonstration.
I hope this helps out some. Again though, you send me a ticket, and I'd be glad to come help!
IfI had the money I might fly you up her, or... I might just have it installed lol. Again thanks for taking the time to write all that I really appreciate it!
-Nate
04-05-2008, 04:58 PM
#7
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: L03 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Need some help installing an alarm system..
No problem Nate, and as for the VATS, no black chip on the key means no VATS. And I imagine a plane ticket is quite a bit more than labor on the install would be. I was just tryin' to get a free vacation out of ya' 
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04-13-2008, 01:36 AM
#8
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Car: 1988 Iroc-z28
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Need some help installing an alarm system..
I'll tell you a funny story about installing alarms for the first time.
Friday afternoon last period in school and all I can think about is my alarm system. I have it all mapped out in my head and I'm already checking the wiring in my head. The bell rings and I'm out of there. I go home and get out the alarm. I'm laying back to the floor under the dash. All the audio people know this position well. I probe the first wire, red, the 12v constant, the really thick one. I watch the volts jump then fall and smell something funny, like plastic burning. Then the probe in my hand gets really hot, then I start to see smoke billowing out of the holes where the probe wires go in the multimeter. I throw the meter out of the car and work my way out from under the dash. Make sure my car works still and drive it to Curcuit City.
2
bucks later and It's in the my driveway waiting for someone to try and steal it. I'm a little disappointed in myself, but whatever. Somethings are better left to the professionals as much as I hate to say it. So thanks everyone esp. titan I hope it was amusing because it sure scared the crap out of me. 
Friday afternoon last period in school and all I can think about is my alarm system. I have it all mapped out in my head and I'm already checking the wiring in my head. The bell rings and I'm out of there. I go home and get out the alarm. I'm laying back to the floor under the dash. All the audio people know this position well. I probe the first wire, red, the 12v constant, the really thick one. I watch the volts jump then fall and smell something funny, like plastic burning. Then the probe in my hand gets really hot, then I start to see smoke billowing out of the holes where the probe wires go in the multimeter. I throw the meter out of the car and work my way out from under the dash. Make sure my car works still and drive it to Curcuit City.
2
bucks later and It's in the my driveway waiting for someone to try and steal it. I'm a little disappointed in myself, but whatever. Somethings are better left to the professionals as much as I hate to say it. So thanks everyone esp. titan I hope it was amusing because it sure scared the crap out of me. 
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