I MIGHT be able to bring it to you in Akron, but I can't afford to take it any further for that cheap. I could maybe leave it with Matt (cashmunson), but thats up to him. You don't know anyone with some sort of pickup truck or station wagon, seriously? I brought my new one home in a subaru outback lol.

 

My buddy has a truck, but he works second shift and doesn't have set days off. Other than that, belive it or not, I don't know anyone

I didn't realize you lived so far away, wow! I don't blame you one bit there lol. One of these days I need to go to Summit, I have a $25 coupon that expires at the end of November. Maybe one of those weekends we could meet up there? I'll give you $80 for it since you're driving so far. All I have to do is find a truck lol. Maybe I could persuade my dad into borrowing one of the work trucks....

 

Whenever he can bring you is good by me if you come here, I don't care what time of day or night it is. Just be ready to drink some beers and talk about cars lol.

I grew up next to Summit, so I love to go. Problem is, it is almost 1.5 hours from here.

 

If he is serious about buying it, you can leave it here until he picks it up. Phoenix i'm about 20 minutes east of summit just down 76. The easiest way for you to get here would be 80 to streetsboro then take 14 right into ravenna. I'm about an hour or so from norwalk. If you guys meet up at summit let me know when and i'll try to join in.

 

Near Middletown Ohio here

 

I'll keep you guys posted about the rear end, it might be a few weeks before I make it up there.

 

and i have a station wagon if the pickup truck dosnt work out

 

You're close to me. I work in Mason but live in Ky.

 

Who saw snow today?? I got a good 1/2 inch of ice and I live up twards the lake(toledo area) And so much wind last night that I though my house was going to fall over..lmao

 

no snow here yet, it's all south of us.

 

I saw snow yesterday morning.. so much so.. I told my wife to be careful there was a lot of "fog" out there.. then I got out and saw it was snow. almost a whiteout.

 

seen about 5 straight days of rain, not heavy rain or wind, but rain, no snow no fog

 

No snow here, just lots of rain.

 

Bud, I might have to withdraw that offer on the rear end. Seems like I might be better off with my 2 series carrier, as far as strength in the ring and pinion goes. Everything I've read on here points to the ring and pinion being the weak link, and a thicker two series gearset helps that. I dunno, still thinking about it. If I blow the rear end out on the first pass in the spring, I'll buy yours off you for double if you still have it ofcourse.

 

Your not gonna make enough power to worry about it anytime soon. This is the exact same rear as in an LS car, just with a different posi unit in it, and it is of course narrower. My buddy runs low 10's, on a 3 series 10 bolt with nothing but GM parts.

 

Andrew.


You need better gears though. Those 2.73's are bad. Those are complete junk for drag racing IMO.

 

yeah u wont break that rear i run a set of 4:10's with 1.7 60 fts and have yet to break it

 

Well that was fun. Anybody get on here today and see how they got bombed? My security went nuts and started quarantining stuff immediately.

 

Nah I was at work. I brought home some of that thick foam I was telling you about. The next time you're up this way stop in and we'll see if we can get your hood to seal a little better.

 

Yes I was on here. Didnt know what the helll happend at the time.

 

2.73s suck for all out raceing but im debateing on installing them to give me the shift points i want

 

If your security didn't go off, you better get better security lol. Mine picked up 3 exploits right away, and I knew what was up then.

 

You gonna be around tomorrow night?

 

I was just trying to get on here and my computer kept saying harmful website. And wouldnt let me??

 

Well yeah lol, that's a given. I'm getting a 2 series 3.73 gearset which is thicker than a 3 series. A little bit stronger.

 

Any aftermarket ring and pinion is better then the stockers. Believe me you wont see a difference in a series 2 to 3 carrier untill you go much faster then you plan to. You stocker gov lock or whatever it is will break and be a open differential way before you break those gears.

I dont see you launching that hard(too justifly a series 2/3 issue unless your going trans brake and 2 step. And if you go to that point I think axles, a real LSD or full spool, and for god sakes c-clip eliminatiors please. I dont wana be the one next to you when that axle breaks down track.

The new rear I have has the c-clip elims on them already thankfully. And andrew you ever get under 12's they'll tech you for them. So might as well do them now while your in the rear end. You can lie about having them but if it breaks and you loose the axle they know you were bullshitting...lol. You know Bader doesnt like that.

 

c-clip elims are only needed with a spool and or if u have slicks other then that u can run 10's on street tires and they arent required

9 out of 10 times the axle is going to break in the burnout box or the starting line anyways


its a gamble with any 10 bolt rear no matter the parts

my old 89 with a 383 and 5 speed had a bone stock rear in it,id launch that car at 3,600 rpms on sticky tirews every weekend and that rear never broke, drag raced that car every weekend for 2 years stright

my stock 88 with an auto and sticky tires broke a built 10 bolt first hit that track

 

We, or at least I run slicks dave and they tech us in our points class once we hit that 12.99 barrier. Thats if andrew will get outta the stock class and come to sportsman with all the guys we race with including me. Then a driveshaft loop is another must have.

Its not that i would be worried about my car braking as much as when im running 12-13 second passes in time trials on a friday night and running next to a 9 second car lol Thtat just breaks in front of you. Then turns out they didnt have c clips or even a damn firesuit on. Been there but it was different because i was a 17 second car and they were a 11 second car. Thankfully i was so slow that they broke and slid into the wall at the 1/8 mile and I was only at the 330ft mark...lmao He was shifting into 2nd with a glide and lost the drivers axle.

But what if I was the guy breaking and loosing a axle shifting into 2nd some day and wiped the guy out behind me? So when it comes to that stuff id rather be safe then sorry.

 

Just seen your post, yeah i'm home.

 

Whoah Mark, hold on, I think you misunderstood lol. When I say 2/3 series carrier, I'm talking about the numerical gear ratio, you know 3.08 and lower is 2 series, 3.23 and higher is 3 series. If I got your's or Bud's rear end, I'd need a 3 series ring and pinion, because both are 3.23s. But my rear end, currently a 2.73, would need a 2 series gear set. The only difference is that a 2 series is thicker, and thus a bit stronger. I'll never have a 2step or t-brake in that car lol. I'm only aiming for mid 12s, I don't have any plans to go 11s.

 

I know what a series 3 and 2 carrier is...lmao.

What I was saying that is that if your so concerned about the strength difference between a series 2 and 3 carrier(stock gears) then your overthinking how much power your gonna have. My opinion is you need bigger gears regardless. Nothing smaller then 3.73s for a N/A strip car IMO. A aftermarket ring/pinion set is something your gonna have to get anyways if you want to work that rear end. Thats whats stronger. The gears(ring and pinion) A aftermarket series 2 or 3 carrier gear set is no different(strenght wise) depending on the manufact. for what your gonna do.

Sometimes ppl must think "kiss" (no-homo..lol) It means=Keep It Simple Stupid. Not trying to say you dont know what your saying, I just think you over think things too much at times. Believe me I use to do it too...alot, just ask project89.

I just wouldnt dump $$ for gears because there stronger and still have the stock "fake" limited slip in the rear end. If your gonna open it up and pay someone to line those gears up so you dont gernade it why not add a alburn or eaton LSD of somesort in there thats "stronger" too??

 

thick 2 series gears are no stronger then standard 3 series gears.

the only difference in the gear set is the thick 2 series gear has a thicker base, but the teeh of the gears are exactly the same

they are exactly the same as using a 2 series gear with a spacer on a 3 series carrier

the reason 2 series gears are stronger by a lil bit is as u move up numerically in gear ratio the pinion gear gets smaller and smaller

but a 2 series 3:73 and a 3 series 3:73 are exactly the same in terms of strenght

 

You jumped the gun thinking I'm buying a gearset just for strength lol. Nooooo, since the beginning I've planned on buying a gearset for the gear ratio (ironic right? ), not for strength. BTW, 3.73 is possibly too much gear for a normal TPI with the low powerband, 3.42s are probably the best compromise. Just saying, 3.73s aren't really the set minimum for strip cars. Depends on the build of course. I'm going with 3.73s because my TPI isn't normal, it's ported and siamesed, so I'll be turning towards 6k rpm.

How am I over thinking it? I'm buying two parts for my rear, it doesn't get much simpler than that lol. A gearset and a cover. No point getting a posi while mines still turnin and burnin. Once it breaks I'll get a new one.

 

I have 3.70 gears in my car and had them when I had the stock tpi setup. They weren't too much for the intake, you just had to shift faster!

 

I should have worded that differently, 3.73s aren't too much gear for a TPI, but a 3.42 isn't too small. Just pointing out that 3.73s aren't really the "minimum" for a strip car. 3.42/3.45 and 3.73/3.70 are the most popular gear choices for TPI 10 bolt/9 bolt cars.

 

Your saying you want a series 2 carrier for strength right?? But your keeping the stock differential? That makes no sence as your gonna get different gears anyways where that wont matter anyways. And I said get 3.73 at the minimum because your car isnt stock...... thats why I said that, not to hear how not all cars at the same and so on....and then a sentence later you yourself say that you do inded want 3.73's. I said this because I know what your car had done to it. It was focused twards you, not all TPI's on this forum.....lol

This is why I say your looking too much into it!!! Why are you buying a Rear end cover that cost like 150 bucks?? Honestly andrew if you have that sort of budget to toss cash like that on a cover then help me out a little man...lol. I just think that your gonna be upset when your doing one wheel burnouts once that stock clutch spring pack breaks. Then you'll be spending even more to fix that rear end and add a LSD. Or ditch it and take a loss. Thann pay someone again to line the gears up right.

That makes no sence why youd buy something like that (rear cover) or just like how you have 30lbs injectors now and have bought a AFPR. 30 lbs injectors and the ability to tune the car means that a AFPR is worthless IMO! 30lbs injectors will support 350Hp at 80% DC. I think youll be ok seeing that you could push those things to make 400Hp if you really wanted to. I just think you over look things but to all his own and what they want I guess.

Its your $$ im just stating my opinion thats all.

 

No lol, I'm not buying gears for strength. That's just dumb . I'm buying the gears for the gear ratio.

That sounds like you were talking about strip cars in general, not just mine.

Mark, you don't realize how important a rear end cover is. https://www.thirdgen.org/beefinguprear
Read that. If you don't get a rear end cover of your own, you're wasting your $125 that you're putting into that rear end. I'm putting $160 into a cover because that will be the first defense to keep my rear from breaking. I'm not going to put $300 into a gearset and kit just for it to shear the teeth off because my housing is distorting. That's what the cover does, it stiffens up the rear.

This is why I ask why you think I'm getting too involved with it. I planned on keeping my stock rear, so I looked up the limits of it, and how to strengthen it. I've done the research. Look in the drag racing/autocross forum. There's a thread devoted to limits of a stock 7.5 10 bolt. Look at the link I posted, there's a whole Tech Article to strengthing it. You'll see that the posi isn't what breaks the rear end. Notice how a posi is #5 on that list, a cover is #3. I plan on running mid 12s. I don't need a bulletproof rear end for that. People go 10s on these rears. I'll take my chances running 12s if it'll save me 3 grand. $160 for a cover isn't much considering the extra strength it gives, not to mention if I do break the rear, I can turn around and sell the cover. Telling you Mark, get a cover of your own, you'll regret it if you don't.

 

The rear end Im getting has one already....lol Just saying. Its built as much as you can want on a 7.625 10 bolt. Thats why i think your wasting your $$ because there are lots of rearends out there that ppl are ditching for 9" ones that you can get. Just call up mark frazer, hes the hook up when it comes to trans and rears.

 

I run a TA Performance girdle/cover on my 9 bolt. I think it ran me about 150 or so. Do I need it? Probably not... am I glad I have it? Absolutely.

 

That looks about what the one I have looks like. This ones a moser one IIRC like the axles. The guy tossed one in on the deal for 30 bucks.

No rebuttle on the AFPR injector thing andrew? J/K

 

I remember telling you something before about the difference in fuel pressure I'll have to find it, but one of the tests had shown that at the same AFRs, 50 psi fuel pressure was rated higher HP than 42 or so psi fuel pressure (stock).

 

Not what I was looking for, but here's one lol.

 

Of course more fuel pressure makes stock fuel injectors handle more power but the statement that 42psi on stock injectors and 50 psi on stock injectors @ the same AFR on the same engine??? That doesnt make much sence to me but helll Im just a beginner at tuning. How can 42psi and 50psi of fuel pressure equal the same exact AFR on the same engine and same injectors? I know 8psi isnt much more but still should make the larger PSI gain about a notch or 2 of AFR (.1-.3) to the rich side. At least I would think but prove me wrong as im always down for learning new things.

The atomazation or however its spelled is not just based on the fuel pressure but on the brand and style of injectors. If your that indepth of the injector area you better be on the injector offsets because that is more important. Exspecially since your changing injectors, possible ecm and masks.

 

What I meant was, tuned for the same AFR, 50 psi gives more power than 42 psi, because of the atomization of the fuel droplets. Running 12.5 AFR at 50 psi makes more power than 12.5 AFR at 42 psi, is what I was getting at

 

What kind of fuel injectors did he have???? That does matter in the atomization. I just couldnt justifly doing that for a few Hp because if he went from 42 to 50psi that isnt much more Hp if given the same tune. Id rather spend my time tuning the offsets and getting that VE and timing table just perfect. Believe me it took me 100's of hours to get mine in decent shape where I would feel as if I was making the best timing fueling blend for the most HP somewhat "safely", that I could do myself.

I know theres a calculator out there but I know that I jacked mine from 42 to 60 psi at 14.7xxx psia and I would only handled 30 more Hp tops when calculated out for fuel consumption at full boost before those injectors were maxed out again(remember its boosted and could make much more then that the injectors just limited me). IIRC that 18psi base fuel pressure gain in my case only make the injectors act as a 33.XX@60Psi compared to the original 28Lbs injector@42psi all at 14.7xxxx psia. So 5 more lbs of fuel being consumed = 18Psi increase in fuel pressure= 30hp of fuel comsuption. Now all cars are different but I would rather spend it elsewhere then have to re-tune the whole system, buy a AFPR that is a good one with a good diaphram. youd be pissed if you got it all tuned in right then the AFPR diaphram went to shitt at the strip and now your lean again and have to get another AFPR. I like to keep it simple and have the least amount of parts that can break as possible. Im sorta comparing apples to oranges here but I think you understand what I mean by it.

Heres another thing to think of as it wouldnt matter to your setu. SO its off topic. But @ 15psi of boost on that same set up I was now at 75Psi of fuel pressure when I was handing that extra gain in fuel consumption at full boost. Alot of PSI for only a measly 20hp injector handling advantage in my case. But all cars are different. Not one is the same as the next so to his, his own.

 

Just gonna throw this out there Mark, but didn't you buy an AFPR aswell?

Anyway, how's the car coming? I haven't done anything on mine yet lol. Gonna do a wheel bearing tonight on the Z34 though. Gonna laugh when your Camaro starts up before my Firebird has even been touched I'll get there in time though. What did you use for porting your heads by the way? I need to get some bits to do my runners and base more. I could do that before the car gets torn down.

 

Seriously andrew???

I got the AFPR because I had tiny fuel injectors. And jacked the pressure sky high to make the injectors act larger. Thats why soon as I got the 48lbs I took that thing off and layed it on the shelf...

Cars going good. Nate and emily are gonna help me on suday and we're starting that bad bay up!! I cant wait! Theres alot of work that needs to be done still with the trans department and tossing in the new rear. But I just want to make sure the turbo and engine is in good shape. And I really want to get it to my new house asap.

Carbine bits are the bits I used on the heads. I have a good amount of them that you can use and save yourself some cash if you want. Then get some sanding drums and your good to go. Either use a die grinder of a dremmel. I used a dremmel but it didnt take too much longer.

 

if ur porting aluminum u need non ferious carbides , standard carbides will clog with aluminum, ive used steel carbides on aluminum before and it can be done , just keep the carbide well coated with wd-40 and when it does clog hit a piece of scarp steel plate with the carbide and the aluminum will usually unclog

 

can't we all just get along?

 

Dave, Hes got iron heads. So I was just gonna let him use some of the bits I have if he needs them.

@cashmunson. we're getting along just doing some good debating...