thats very close rember the calc is flywheel numbers, i know for a fact ur making around 350hp and around 430ftlb's and those are with the old turbo

with the gt35 and everything els einline and correct id expect to see ur car put down around 330rwhp and 450ftlbs at the tires at modest boost ( 10 psi or so)

 

Desktop dyno puts me at 438hp at 6k rpm and 439tq at 4500. I think that's in the area for what my engine is making. I guess i'll find out when I dyno it in the spring.

 

Yea your right dave. Sometimes I just underestimate the TQ of a turboed car and what it may lay down. I really do want to dyno it this spring though since I didnt last year.

It was amazing seeing the TQ numbers your car layed down on that dyno with the timing locked.

Those HP calculators that base on trap vs weight, i like better and trust more. For my last times with the other turbo @107Mph traps and 3280lbs its saying arround 300hp. I believe that all day.

 

Does this look right for a 26 inch slick 3.73's and being in 3rd gear(1:1 ratio)

Clocking 114mph @ 5500 rpms??

Im not sure if my diameter of that slick is correct though. Any one know the proper way or a good calculator to use for this.

 

You know I'd love to Mark, a nice set of AFRs

But you know how it is, finances are tight. This is one hell of a budget build lol. Free motor, free trans, building the motor ourselves, rear end is getting set up for free. Building my own SFCs. $20 cheater slicks I just gotta hope and pray it'll be enough to get me into the 12s. If I'm close, I may just cut some extra weight to make up the difference.

Although, I am watching the classifieds and craigslist for used aftermarket heads...I may have to give a gift to myself when I get my tax returns back

 

Whats the total cost for all the stuff youve gotten so far. headers, intakes, heads exc.... tuning stuff, Wb...

 

i would have ditched the ltr type setup all together and spent the money on a set of vortec heads , ebay vortec single plane efi intake , the car would be alot faster for the same amount of money

 

I really didn't want to add all this up, I like a surprise lol.

All I can think of right now totals up to $2490 roughly. I think that's incredibly cheap for a (hopefully) 12 sec NA car. I was talking to Nate when we had our family Thanksgiving, he spent more than that on his Mustang going from 12.80s to 12.00s. So far I'm happy, as long as it puts me in the 12s

If not, I'm still looking out for used heads I could order a set of new bare heads, but then I'd want to go bigger valves, screw in studs, even though I have everything else. I dunno, we'll see lol. Heads are expensive

Well one of the guidelines of this swap was for a stock look. It's my sleeper lol. The only thing that will give it away is the SLP runners. I probably could've gotten further with less if I went a different route, but may as well work with what I have. Everyone knows a little bit what that's like. You wouldn't believe how many people at first said "stick a carb on it" lol. In hindsight, I probably could've been further ahead if I went a different route, but I don't regret it.

 

Having a lopey cam with a loud exhaust isn't going to help you have a sleeper. I understand you wanting to keep it a mostly stock appearance. I just don't think you're going to be happy with the outcome until you put a good set of heads on.

 

Theres no way you can compare nates car to yours. Dont forget nates car is a trailor(drag car only)and its consistant as can be. Doesnt move but .010 on most nights at the track. And let me remind you Chevys are cheeper to build by far in the end. Nate spend under $1500.00 making that car go from 12.80's to 11.90's. I was there to help him. He got mike to do all the engine build work for 0.00$ He also has a much better top and bottom end then you. Hyp Pistons, moly rings, exc. Dont forget his best time this year was in the 11.90's And to be honest if he didnt lift most of the runs hed always be in the 11's. Hes just in that 12 class so you know he sand bags a tad. Believe me his engines got alot more power in it thats being left on the table from his small converter, small gears, and stockish tranny.

2500 bucks is alot in my mind to take a street mid-low 15 second car to high 12's. That just my opinion though. I like your build but its not a budget build in my mind. You still have to get the gears in and such so theres more cash to be spend.

I had a true budget build in my mind. Last year I took a 17 second car and pushed it to low 14's with under 800 bucks and it was a street car. Droped 3 seconds and doubled the Hp. Now its a different story. I bet I have a good 1500+ bucks in it but If im correct it will run 12's all day next spring. May be 12.99 or 12.00's Its going to be all about the launch I think.

I did get that POS out today though... out with that stock crap.

 

There's a difference between your build and mine though, NA vs turbo lol. That's a HUGE difference. If that's not a budget build for a TPI NA third gen what is? I got a free motor and tranny lol. BTW, gears are getting set up for free. I could go carb, but come on, what fun is that?

I just don't see how you'd get a TPI thirdgen faster any cheaper than that, without forced induction.

If you were in my shoes, what would you do Mark?

 

if ur dead set on stock apearing , sell ur intake stuff and buy a vortec tpi base , and get a set of vortec heads , u will be miles ahead in the hp department.

ultimatly down the road u will want to go faster and ditch the tpi setup.


vortec heads are the best bang for the buck when it comes to cheap head upgrade u can make around 450 hp with those heads and a properly setup engine

be aware the vortec tpi base is close to 500 bucks

if u went to the single plane efi the intake is 179$ + an elbow + an used lsx throttle body

 

hey fast this is why u need a 2-step

 

Holy crap dave. your right there!!! I need to get one going for spring.

Andrew im not saying that your build isnt cool but im just saying that it not that cheep. Im not for a cheep build anymore believe me that. Cheep and fast isnt reliable at all.

Andrew you know me... if I had 2500 bucks+++ to toss into a TPI it would of been a turbo. For 2500 bucks I could have made a high 11 sec 305 with ease. AND if i got a 350....lol low 11's no prob

Dave how much did you have total in your V6 to make it a 12 second car??

 

over a span of 5 years im just shy of 3k , that includes the megasquirt and general repirs on the car along with the turbo system and 2 engines

u have to remeber labor was free, the stainless tubing for my headers was free , and rear end parts/gears were also free

 

on ur car u get a standard 2 step.

then u set the base timing to 5 or 10* adtc and adjust it in the prom

then u get a monetary normally closed push button switch
u wire the switch into the est wire when the switch isnt pushed the ecm controls the timing

when ur on the 2 step and push and hold the button it breaks the connection on the est bypass wire letting the timing fall back to 5 or 10* atdc giving u the antilag effect

when u launch u release the button and timing goes back to normal


this is how u make a cheap antilag system without a standalone ecm

u should be able ot build about 10-15psi on the 2step for launch

 

Will I be able to set he 5* atdc easily?? I would think that car would hardy run..lol

But that seems like a good way to set one up eaisly. That seems alot more straight forward then I though.

My only question is how much boost will i be able to hold at the line?

 

I had a thought dave. Could one hook that up as a anitlag and not have a low rpm limiter?? I dont see why it wouldnt work right, it would just be more difficult to hold the rpms.

 

once u set the base timing to 5* or 10* adtc u have to set the offset in the prom , once u do that the ecm will automatically compensate and advance the timing extra to bring it were it should be during normal operation

and u may not even need such retarded timing 0*-3* may work just fine , i was just throwing out typical numbers

with the efficiant turbine on ur turbo u will just have to play with the settings till u find what works best


it depends on ur brakes and converter , if ur converter goes to 2,800 and u can hold it there on the brakes u would set the 2 step to 2,500 rpms and try it and make small rpm adjustments from there to adjust spoolup and to see if the brakes will hold the car

i use the ebrake alongside stepping on the brake pedal to hold my car, and without a 2-step i can go wot and put the engine up against my converter without issues ( 4,500) rpm

 

How much boost could you make with going WOT aginst the brakes without a anti lag system?? I dont know what I could even make since last year i was dealing with all those boost leaks. For all I know I may be able to make 5-8psi at the line and hold it as of now.

 

if the brakes were cold i could hold 9/10 psi but without a line lock after a burnout id only be able to hold 2-3 psi

 

Anybody working on their car? mine is out in the driveway buried under 8 inches of snow still. I probably should get it back into the garage and start working on it.

 

i am but its not 3rd gen....

 

I am...

Here she is. New rear end going in. Alburn LSD/moser axles/richmond 3.73 gears. New turbo already along with fresh engine. Also new brakes all arround with kyb(adjustable) shocks. Dave!! Got the adjustable ones now...lol cost 10 bucks more a piece.

 

Life's been crap here, so haven't even touched it. It's out of gas, and haven't been able to get more for it so I can even fire it up. Broke, single, and stuck in the boons.

 

i hear most of that budfreak, broke single and it needs work, but i can't do anything to it too damn cold, got the garage cleared out for her, can't get to it too much snow

 

Thankfully up here in toledo we havent seen to much snow. But it has been so freaking cold out. Took me a month just to get my rear end out.. cold=lack of motivation.

 

probably next week it'll be melted off enough i can get into the back garage and then back out, i got a bunch of parts that need installed

 

Looks like things just changed. I will be making a large sum of money this week, which means my heads will be on the way, plus whatever else I can squeeze out of the dough.
I talked to the guy with the heads, and they are from a 91 Vette and highly modded. Ported, 2.02/1.60 valves, clearanced for higher lift, .550 max lift comp cam springs.........

 

hey thats great news! dont waste any money tuning that new setup though

 

Heres where the magic happens. Now only if I could intergrate my Ipad into the dash and datalogg via tuner pro though it..... hmm

 

hey i got a tach just like that for christmas, how much more accurate then factory is it?

 

TONS!! My stock tach is off about 1k+ rpms at 5500rpms. So this one is spot on with my laptop dataloggs. I got this one off a friend used so I then adjusted it on the back of the tach untill it matched my computer when it was hooked up.

 

mines a little different, just hook it up and set it to 4 6 0r 8 and its supposed to set itself up, sunpro make good stuff? they're being for sale cheaply everywhere makes me feel like the answer is no

 

The one I has is one of those classic ones. Thats the model.

 

I have a Sunpro in mine, works awesome! I just set it to 8 cylinders, wired it up, and it has been right on ever since. It matches the rpm my computer shows. My stock tach matches it too so they're not all necessarily way off.

 

you have a bird. Your gauges were always accurate. From what I've read. The camaro tachs broke (all of them) shortly after they left the facorty. Bad design something burns out in them and they read way off

 

you have the older style guageslet alone bird ones are usually better.

Theres a way to fix out guages as the part that needs replaced isnt sold or produced anymore so you have to rig up some resistors yourself. I say helll with that, I just tossed one on. Its less work.


Andrew you need one of these!!! J/K

 

ill be seeing one of those very soon!!!!!!!!^^^^

 

Think of how much faster I'd go with a turbo setup on this motor Mark

 

think of how much more money you would have into it, im very close to the 10k mark for engine and trans and still have a lot to buy including turbos, ignition, and fuel. you can go just as fast for cheaper if you build a car around the bottle

 

True it would be a wicket set up.


355 i almost went on the bottle before I decided to go turbo insted. I chose the turbo because it cost about the same(cheep build) as a good bottle setup at the track. And also because it never needed refilled.... Its funner to have a turbo on the street IMO.

I could argue the same pont oni NA vs turbo. Look at the $$ you need to spend to make a 400 hp NA engine compared to the turbo set up which would easily surpass that mark if it was a V8. $$ per Hp is definitly on the power adders side, weather its n20 or boost.

 

sounds just like my heads. they should flow nicely for you.

 

Updates, the rear end is in. Its a completly different car. Posi all the time no matter how hard I try to shake it and the 3.73s are a nice addition also. Still have no traction though when under 30 mph and floor it. I know the TC must be working somewhat still. Flashes nicely. Must be the tq i would guess from the turbo.

 

any of you guys ever hear bad reveiws of wynjammer's sc kit for the 4.3s?

 

we still need vids lol ,
not that i can say much i havent been postying any new vids of the iroc

but ive been to busy with my new job/hobby lol

and heres and upclose look


thats just one of my new lasers when i dj the rave on the second ill have to post a video of the whole system going

 

Welp, nothing happening for me. Just yet another bullshitting, disappearing customer.

 

Are you talking about the heads? Just keep your eye out for deals on used aftermarket heads. I got my Dart 200cc Iron Eagle Platinum heads for $500 total, shipping included! Just keep looking, they'll pop up

 

Ebay ppl. Unless you dont favor that place. You can find alluminum heads there for under 800 bucks assembled. If I knew what the helll the difference was and what you want id look them up and link them.

 

No, I mean the money period. My customer disappeared, so I can't afford to do a damn thing.