How is the pitman and idler arm condition, did you give them a glance yet?

- Rob

 

everything is brand new. But the box is original.

This is how much play it has before the wheel starts to move:



So basically, you'll be going down the road and it will want to follow the crown off to the right. So then you turn the wheel until you feel resistance and bring the car back, but then it aims for the left so you turn the wheel again until you feel resistance, and it starts going back to the right. It's like you turn the wheel and get a delayed response.

I feel like every car will try to wander, but you can keep it 'centered', where this requires a significant rotation of the steering wheel to do so. Was thinking of trying to tighten the box.

Other than that, the car runs amazing. I bought the PATC kit for the modulator so now the TH350 shifts great under light throttle or boost. I'd take it to a car show if people actually liked thirdgens lol.

-- Joe

 

Joe do a quick dry park test w/someone assisting you. Or if by yourself just lock the steering wheel, jack the front end up (or put on the lift) and move the front tires by hand left and right, carefully watching for where the play is coming from...

- Rob

 

ive got a bit of play in my steering box too. Your steering shaft have a rag joint in it? I deleted mine last year with a astro van shaft and it helped alot.

 

No rag joint. Solid shadt

 

Don't mean to hi-jack your thread. But THANK YOU! I had a heck of a time finding my leak. And it was in the same place as yours. Bought a harbor freight inspection camera to confirm.

Managed to be able to clean the area very well by removing the dist cap and coil. RTV'ed the heck out of that corner and it worked. No more leak. Usually just slapping rtv on a leak doesn't work out to well, but I lucked out. I'm just happy I didn't have to yank the intake.

Thanks again!

 

Glad you found it! That little bugger was pissing me off too. weird spot. I think the felpro gasket was a hair short.

-- Joe

 

Swapped the steering box. All better.

Still have a minor oil leak, maybe rear main seal. Can't tell. But it's minor.


Gonna drive it a bit and then swap the injectors for some 60s I ordered. Maybe when it's cooler out I'll tow it to the track.

For now though, it's a fun street car. Maybe a little too much for the street, but fun.

-- Joe

 

No such thing as too much fun!

 

It's not possible to go wide open on the street. Even at 50mph, going WOT and holding the gear just lights the tires on fire.

And I bought new tires a few weeks ago.

Which is probably good, because if it actually loaded up under booost it would probably lean out with the smaller injectors.

-- Joe

 

Need some drag radials!

 

I think with how well they prep the track, it should be fine up there.

I need to find some time to get my trailer setup. I want to put an electric winch and some shelves for tools, blower belts, etc.

 

Thats good to know. I have a feeling after this year at the track ill be building a rear axle. lol

 

Bro are you like putting together an entire crew for a 500-600 horsepower single pass lol...?

Any vids on the street just messing around with her, wanna hear how it sounds w/the resonator...

- Rob

 

Went up friday night to watch. The import guys were all running 9s and low 10s. The v8 muscle guys were in the 11s and 12s..

-- Joe

 

I like the idea of keeping the car in an enclosed trailer, with tools and such. Makes life easier.

I don't know what the power output is. I know at less than 1/4 throttle from 40mph it lights the tires on fire. Probably a little too much for a street car.

I have a short MP4 but the forum keeps giving me an error trying to upload it.


-- Joe

 

It's too funny when you see that, right? You still have some guys on hear preaching more and more cubes, with big blocks running slower than Imports with less cylinders on an NA run, it's freaking hilarious. Can't believe guys on here still source them with what had been proven with smaller engines. Even ALKY had enough of the big block and went LSX. Now sell that C4 Joe and go and buy an EVO. That would never happen, hmm, but then again...

- Rob

 

I don't know what an EVO is, but I'll keep the C4.

As far as "project cars" I'm probably gonna do a tbucket over the winter.

As far as "drivers", I've been looking at Ferrari lately.

I have not been following ALKY's build, he's going naturally aspirated LSx ?


The imports are all turbo cars at the track. Most of the american cars are naturally aspirated. The newer (2012+) challengers with the procharger D1's go pretty good, 11 second street cars in a 4400 lb package isn't terrible.

Big blocks have their place. Small blocks have their place. Imports have their place.

-- Joe

 

Meh, an engine is an engine. I used to be into the favorites; 454 BBC, or 406 SBC, etc, but between boost allowing for any engine to make incredible power, coupled with the fact that you can easily overpower yourself at a certain point, there's really no need for overkill unless bragging rights is someone's thing. That, or unless they are planning a trip to the moon in the near future ...

Always liked the AV Boys Gray Mare, was a very fast Mustang for the street...

- Rob

 

Don't use aluminum rockers with high pressure springs.


-- Joe

 

Oops. I got a set of steel, pro magnum rockers and i love em. Full roller and made out of steel. Weight is the only down side to them imo

 

what springs? dont you have a very small cam?
are those crane golds?

 

Lmao

Alky isnt replacing his drag race bbc with a truck 6 liter.

 

How old are those rockers? I ran the old crane aluminum rockers for years with a .480 lift cam, not sure what is considered high lift anymore?

 

I have to look it up, but the hyd roller spring option for the afr 210 heads. They were comperable to what comp recommends for the cam, which is an nx276hr

Yep, crane gold's. A set of comp pro magnums are going in now, along with 1 pc pushrods.

-- Joe

 

Like 600 lift. 2009. But I've only started hammering the car lately.

Other projects, divorce, etc got in the way.

I had some pro mags on the shelf . The only reason I noticed was cuz I'm swapping valve covers. I was like wtf.

Better to find it now!

 

We have had a lot of luck with BBC in jet boats over the years. Fantastic platform. Unlike a car that sees Max rpm for 10 seconds, a boat holds that rpm and load for hours and hours. Very reliable power.

-- Joe

 

For sure! good catch.

 

Meh, not even sure why Alky made the switch, but he seems to be happy with it.

- Rob

 

He didn't switch anything. He's building a second car, with a truck 6.0.

-- Joe

 

Installed pushrods and new comp cams rockers.

Trying to decide on valve covers.










I'm leaning towards the fabricated ones, but I'll have to drill 1 1/4" holes in them for breathers.

I'm not running PCV.

I slipped with a wrench and chipped my fender.. wtf




So I'm a little annoyed about that.

-- Joe

 

+1 on the fabbed ones.

 

Are you just running two breathers or ?

I don't want to run a PCV because I dont want to be sucking oil in my intake.

Thought about maybe a catch can and an electric vac pump, but I don't know what the life is of those things.

-- Joe

 

Im running a open breather on the drivers side cover, and a PCV on the passengers side. It goes to a steeda oil separator (https://www.jegs.com/i/Steeda/957/555-3710/10002/-1) which goes into a check valve and then into the TB on the passengers side. Been running it for the last 2K, havent pulled the TB to see if theres oil in it, but it does catch a decent amount of oil. Small little bugger too.

 

I ran two breathers in my previous setup and found it to be very smelly, as well after high Rpm road course runs, noticed a very lite mist of oil could be noticed in the engine bay. This was with running both breathers through a catch can that was then vented to atmosphere at the front of the engine.

On my latest setup, I am running a similar setup to Dan. Open breather on passenger side cover, driver side connected to catch can, with vacuum sourced from either throttle body, or supercharger inlet as selected by the inline check valves. I am a little sceptical about the supercharger inlet being used as a vacuum source, but hoping the larger catch can contains all the oil mist. There are many catch cans models available, some do a much better job at coalescing the fluid then others so do some research on their internals.

This is what I have setup, although only ran it N/A so far on the dyno. Supercharger vacuum source was just blocked off at this time.

https://goo.gl/images/1NeE9v

 

So this is what I came up with for fuel line routing. Steel lines, run across the back and then down the frame until about where the cat would be on a stock car.

Then it transitions to braided PTFE line, snakes through the frame and up the inner fender to the fuel rains.

 

Runs again . I had to add 30 to my vet table to get the afr right. Perhaps my dead time is off, but I'll to keep more in a few days.

-- Joe

 

Return started leaking at the regulator last night. Maybe I'll take a look at it this evening.

Made some more adjustments to the injector settings. Looks like .518 deadtime and .118 voltage offset is the magic numbers. Car idles at 13.5 AFR steady at 750-800 RPM, 3.5 msec on alternating batch fire.

The only thing that I kinda want to change long term is I'd like to swap the coils for 8 LSx coils and mount them on the valve covers. I'm not paying $500 though for the brackets and coils I've seen advertised on the forum.. No chance in hell.

I think Justin is running 8 LSx coils, I'll have to see what he's doing or did on his SBC.

I have the PCV run to the air intake for now. I need to add a catch can setup that Dan linked me to previously.

 

The stupid O-ring on the -6 adapter for the miniram fuel pressure regulator was leaking. Since it's just an LT1 fbody regulator, I put a factory push connect stub on it and an An adapter on that. No leaks.

Moved the coil packs down low on the firewall. Looks a little cleaner.

-- Joe

 

looks much cleaner with the coil packs moved down

 

Joe, why so rich with the air/fuel at idle?

Which link did Dan post for the catch can, am curious to check it out...

Justin has been real secretive lately, so not sure what he is up to. Just hope he sets his big block up the right way, with fuel injection, solid tune, all under stock hood, or very low cowl... and not the 70's hillbilly method that plagues this website from some of the members here that resembles Homer's car of the future lol.

- Rob

 

Thanks Dan!

Getting closer to completion. Got an inspection sticker yesterday.

I've got a very very small list of things on it, mainly cosmetic. Some things I can't really make look nicer, but it is what it is. Maybe I should be building rat rods instead..

-- Joe

 

Because that's how it runs best. Ignoring the emissions stoich stuff or the narrowband o2 feedback stuff, I try to get my idle as low as possible without being choppy. (It's an automatic car too). Also, being a boosted car I like to have some idea of advance, because retarding timing under load actually raises EGT which can lead to detonation itself.

Soooo. With that said, I idle at 20 degrees advance, and prefer an idle target of about 800 rpm. To do that requires around a 13.5-13.8 AFR.

If I lean out the mixture to 14.5 or so with this cam/combo, I'd need to increase my advance or it will get choppy. But if the advance increases, then the idle speed will go up so I'll have to back off the throttle blades. But then you run on the border of minimum air requirement, so then your IAC will start moving around a lot to try and keep the idle stable.

Soo.. I keep timing at idle low, slightly rich, and it works out good. Great off idle throttle response, no hesitation or choppiness.

I think this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/Steeda/957/555-3710/10002/-1

I have not ordered yet. I'm using my air intake for the PCV and I noticed yesterday at idle it pulls almost no vac. I'm sure under throttle it's good, but I'm trying to find a better solution before I get the oil separator/catch can as the routing is subject to change.

I can't use manifold vac of course, because it won't work under boost. (although my cruise is around 20hg so it would be good for that).

Have you done much research on PCV on a boosted motor? By causing a negative pressure area in the crank case you can get as much as 20hp.

He's probably on a budget. He has a wife, a mortgage, and a life outside of his Camaro and all those things have expenses. Big block stuff is huge money, the motors we put in our speed boats can be $30,000 each. He's going at a pace that works for him.

Once he has kids, if he doesn't already, we will be seeing him talking about prius and minivan builds lol.


-- Joe

 

Pennsylvania is pretty easy on the wallet though. Even with a mortgage and such, you can live in a palace with only one income and only pay like twelve hundred a month. That's about my monthly property tax bill by itself. Perils of living so close to NYC for me, I guess. I think he should have stood with the SBC. There is no question the Street Outlaw show nabbed him hook, line and sinker, and he kinda built a rep for himself as one of the fast guys on here so he needs to maintain that image. Then again, a 434-SBC Shafiroff with boost would get him where he needs to go, and for a lot cheaper in the long run (warranty). Seriously considering their "Big Dawg" engine myself, next...

- Rob

 

Bbc stuff isn't much more than sbc stuff. Many times it is the exact same. You can build a 434 lil m shortblock or a 565 big m shortblock for about the same money. The 565 would easily outperform the 434 and be more reliable while doing it.

 

Summit charges the same for parts no matter where you live though.

I'm not really sure what his plans are, I honestly haven't really followed his build much. I think he's into this stuff a little more than I am, he seems to have a group of guys he tunes and builds and races with and that's cool.

I've got a lot of other things that occupy my time and drain my bank accounts.

Anyway...

It's not as pretty as some of you guys builds, but I think it came out ok.

-- Joe

 

No doubt Dig, a BBC would make a ton more power, and I guess you're right, about the same cost for the build. It's just in my case though, I like to fill the tank up, and still have more than half left when I get to the track lol. I had a '72 Monte Carlo back in the day with a 454 that I sold like a complete idiot, Green/Green w/staple shifter. Beautiful car. Anyways, damn tank didn't last me a whole entire night. Then again I was constantly flooring it...

Joe, I just like busting Justin's chops cuz he's been out of the game for awhile., I'm actually looking forward to his comeback. Lot of guys caught up to him though. Your car came out sweet, but we're all dying to see some supercharger numbers, or at least see some pulls in the car. Get your new girl to hold that phone and give us a zero to sixty at least lol...

... if those tires will hold.

- Rob

 

 

I can't really goose it on the street, the tires break loose. Like I mentioned in the other thread, I did manage to get it to 6psi last night before the tires broke loose on a moderate part throttle accel. It's running really good and quite reliable. Cruising around 20hg and 190 degrees. Any acceleration at all puts me into boost. Transmission is shifting really nice.

The '67 next to me has a BBC. I didn't ask him what it runs for times, but based on the cage and everything else I'd say it's a fast car.

-- Joe

 

yes to a shafiroff racing BBC