I wouldnt say that you would be back on the road in one night, i was just talking about rewiring for the map sensor. You would need the EBL computer to make the car run after you swapped to speed density. After i installed my EBL computer and fired it up for the first time, it wasnt real drivable. It needs to have the VE tables, which are your fueling tables, adjusted quit a bit to get decent drive-ability back. Then again it all depends on how much is done to your motor on how it will run with the base tune. Maybe save it for a weekend project because you don't wanna rush through it or you could miss something. Do you have a local place to maybe tune it for you? In my case, that was the only way to get it running reliably in a quick amount of time. Tuning it yourself could take some time. Since I watched my local tuner, I understand what is going on much better than before. If you havent done any tuning before tackling it all in one night and trying to get it back on the road for work the next day could be overwhelming. Thats just my opinion. Let me know

 

we were talking about that.......watch someone tune the cars and it will give us a much better understanding on the whole prosedure.........and yes we do have a guy to tune, when money is right I will be getting mine dyno tuned as I garuntee I am only hurting myself with the stock ecm........I think he charges like 400 for the dynotune, not too bad considering I have been quoted much higher than that in the past....

 

I totally agree. I feel confident enough to fine tune the rest of the drive-ability issues that I might have once I watched the guy tune it. I used Dewayne located in Hennessey. I think his place is called D&D tunning or something. He charged me $400 for the first day but after we started adding fuel to make it air fuel ratio right, my fuel pump wouldnt keep up so I had to leave before the tune was done and put a fuel pump in the following weekend. Now I have to go back and finish it up for another $100 so not bad. Im actually going this Friday the 11th. Who are you thinking will tune yours?

 

oh its just a guy on another racing forum thats gona tune it on a dyno at a company here in okc called ABEL Racing.......seems like he know his ****, we will see! Might have to have a word with your guy as well just to feel him out.....Are you pretty happy with whats been done so far with him?

 

Hey man I had a question........this damn stall wont go into overdrive now, I havnt messed with the detent yet but I will try 1 or 2 clicks later and see what happens.......it sucks because I am happy with the way it shifts right now but the only prob is the damn lock-up........any ideas???

 

Ya I heard of Able before, haven't heard of how their work is though. When I called them of to see if they could tune my car before I swapped to the EBL and they had to check and see if they had the soft wear so that thew up a red flag that they might not have done our type of computer but I could be wrong. Thats when I decided to do away with the eprom burning all together and get the EBL.

I just got of the phone with my dad and he said that 3000 stall shouldnt have messed with lock up or over drive, the shifts would just be spongy. You might check you linkages and make sure everything is back in original location.

Let me know how you come out tonight with the dentent adjust

 

im definately doin the computer swap.. sooo $450ish for the computer and $400 for all the dyno time by LS1tuning, and ill be right around $1k for a fully tuned and fully adjustable computer.. im stoked about that man.. and yes, the plan is to do it on the weekend.. im thinkin about goin to a dyno day and setting a baseline on my car to see where it sits now in pretty much stock form.. $40 for 3 pulls

as for the guy in hennessey, ill have to ask tomorrow but ive heard of him through the guys i work with.. (i work in okarche)

ABEL racing is not the actual guy thats tuning it for us.. its a guy that goes by LS1TUNING on midweststreetcars.com that just uses ABEL's dyno for the tuning..

jaydog, i think your detent is at fault on this one.. maybe your throttle valve is sticking? try pushing down on the exposed end of the cable and let it snap back a few times and see if it frees it up.. if it all of a sudden wont go into overdrive, i would be willing to bet it has SOMETHING to do with the detent.. adjust it, if that dont work, i would pull the detent cable out of the tranny and see if there are any binds or ANYTHING.. o and check your fluid again..

 

Pretty sure its not the detent as I tried every witch way last night in an effort to get it to kick in.........nothing. Its not the fluid because I had to refill it when I did the trans cooler.

Whats weird is it will go into overdrive whenever it wants to........its off and on but when it does go its extremely weak.........like its not going into full lock up.

All other gears are fine and shifts are perfect minus the overdrive???

I need to know witch lines coming off the trans are the send and witch is the return as I might have an idea........
Im gona get it in the air today and see if I can find any kinked lines or anything......witch I highly doubt because the lines coming off the trans cooler are warm to the touch after driving so........

Any other idea's?????

 

maybe your throttle valve in the transmission is clogged or something.. who knows maybe all the fluid changes and what not youve been doin to it maybe knocked somethin loose and got gummed up in the throttle valve.. maybe your 3-4 clutches or sprag or something is slipping you might try putting some b&m trickshift in it.

check this site out dude, it might help.

http://sethirdgen.org/tranny.htm

 

well I just got done talking to a guy at cottmans transmition and he seems to think that because the stall is such a high stall, 28-3000 thats whats causing it to off and on go into overdrive.....He said the stall is to big for my hp and torque levels........witch is complete bull in my opinion because I have done various torque calculaters for stalls on the internet and it pretty much recommends what I have now so............

I think he may be right as for it not going into overdrive because the rpms are too low, Im gona take it out and run it up to like 3500 rpms on the highway and see if it drops down when put into overdrive.......Im willing to bet that it does. Because even at 60 mph on reno I am still only at like 2200 rpms in third gear.......DUH!!!!

I figured that it couldnt be nothing too major as everything else is fine as it could be and working perfectly. This whole car will wake up quite a bit once I get a cam........and to a certain degree, the guy is right about the stall being to big for the car.......but I did that on purpose because I am by far not done playing with the motor.

So, I will keep yall updated as later on I will take it out on the highway. Fricken retard, I shoulda known that!!!

 

Man it sounds like it might be the torque converter slipping. I try the trick shift and see what that does for you. if it was a pinched line it would be doing it though all gears. Have you checked the fluid level? I'm sure you have but its always good to have other people state the obvious from the outside that i always miss.

 

no the stall is tight.. its not the stall.. its gotta be because of the rpms.. makes complete sense..

like i said numerous times before jay.. get a ****in shift kit. itll help with the overdrive issue.

 

Fluid level is dead on as stated before, Yeah, I was planning on flushing the whole trans with the trick shift fluid once I got the money to buy all the fricken fluid LOL. But like I said before, everything else is just fine, I doubt I am blowing through the converter (slipping) because this thing is really tight and works like a champ except for overdrive.....Its a 10 in stall and it was used, but it is really tight thats for sure, a lot tighter than some other converters I have seen and ran in the past.

 

I know, and like I said before........when money comes, money will be spent lmao..........god I need a second job just for my car expenses........Its like crack, once you start you just cant stop lol, thats why I didnt get back into cars for so long...........because its addicting!!!

 

.............................shift kits are only like $60....................... if that..........................

sell some crack and buy a shiftkit.. quit procrastinatin'

 

its way tighter than my old 3k stall thats for damn sure.. 10" vs. 12", hands down the 10" will always be tighter.

 

Hell, if I could get a good quantity of crack I would...........J/K. Its hard to spend 60 bucks whenever all you have is a 100 to your name LOL. But, Im not going to run a b&m shift kit............way to many bad reviews on them



P.S. Called vfn, hood should be here next wednesday............YAY!

 

i wouldnt buy a b&m kit either.. get a transgo

 

i cant stress that more


trans go all the way i have had both. u need a rebuild like mine. transgo said it can hold a easy 450hp

 

sorry sig doesnt show all. larger boost valves, vette servos and transgo shift kit. said the vette servos better than jet and tci. also have a full throttle upshift on mine

 

thats what I have ran in the past......and thats what I will run in this, transgo is the best kit out there in my opinion, a little bit more expensive but thats ok as it comes with all the files and drill bits you need.

Cant take the car out tonight and see if it locks up at high speed because of the rain, I dont drive this car in the rain at all because my headers are wrapped and I dont want moisture getting between the wrap and the headers and my t-tops leak.......car is not a daily driver, hopefully tommorow I can take it out on the highway....

P.S. high stalls, shitty tires, and a posi track rear end dont mix well with a little water on the road lol........got stuck in the rain in yukon yesterday and almost got sideswiped!!!

 

sorry sig doesnt show all. larger boost valves, vette servos and transgo shift kit. said the vette servos better than jet and tci. also have a full throttle upshift on mine

 

Im running a transgo in my tranny. Thats the only thing me and my dad run no matter what application

You guys that are interested in the EBL computer, let me know if you have any other questions. Ill do my best to answer them. My car goes back on the dyno tomorrow. Ill let you'll know how everything comes out. I might hit the 300hp mark haha. The next time I go to the track im hoping for a 12.60 or so. My personal best is 12.88 so far.

 

no chit..........thats not bad at all man..........we need to run em, garuntee we are stupid close......


Looking for a set of used slicks for a 16 inch rim if anyone knows anyone that has some there willin to let go.

 

itll be probably atleast a month before i get the EBL but when i get it ill be talkin to you for sure...

the guy up in hennessey that runs those dyno's is cousins with a guy i work with.. i might be able to get a discount..

btw, when we meetin up fools?

 

Jay, maybe see if he's still got these?
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1361561531.html

 

Sounds good man. I will be up at nostalgia weekend at ark city on the 26th and 27th at Arkansas City. I know that is a bit of a drive for you OKC boys but it is cool. Im hoping to run my car there.

I finished up at the dyno today with 285hp and 330tq on a mustang chassis dyno. Im still making adjustments because I am having detination issues at 4000-6000. Timeing and fuel, timing and fuel and more timeing and fuel. When it was on the dyno you couldnt hear the spark knock but on the way home I did. So im playing with the tunning alot.

To give you a heads up, in my opinion a good air fuel gauge set up is assetial to being able to make your own adjustmenst. You will come to find out data logs and AFR readings become your friend haha. Im running the LC-1 Innovate system on mine and it runs about $220-$230 gauge, softwear and all.

Keep me updated!

 

Oh ya, just sold 1quicktpi an autometer air/fuel gauge......it is a must when tuning period......get that sucker dialed in man ur definetly on the right path.....cant wait to get mine on a dyno.

Thanks for the heads up jenson I will check em out.

 

I will be dissapointed if you don't make a new best ET!!!
Damn I have been slacking, I'm going to have to do the next round of mods soon to keep Black Betty out front.

 

Ya right! My car has a long ways. My winter project, money permitting, is a NX 100 shot wet kit so hopefully ill be able to run with you on the spray if you don't spray haha

 

yep, thats what im fixin to get when moneys right..........nitrous express efi wet kit part # 5151..............check ebay for some good deals on them ocasionally I will see a new kit on there with everything you need for 400 bucks and under!!!

I think it comes with a 100 and 150 shot your choice. Nothing wrong with a little juice

All of us are pretty close and 1quicktpi is comming around.........he's my younger brother.........unfortunatly for his sake though, I will never let that **** outrun me lmao!!!!!!!!!!!!!biotchhhhhhhhhh!

Cant wait till it cools down outside some more, if ya'lls cars are anything like mine it LOVES some good cool air to breath........totaly different monster when its cold out.

 

i just got my new tranny in and im now considering the transgo kits.... what else can i do? im kinda new at the tranny level so talk to me like im 4... and it cant be really too hard :-P

 

If ur not familier with tearing down tranny's.........stick with the transgo install and leave the rest for the proffesionals, the transgo is the best kit out there in my opinion, if your not gona make stupid amounts of torque with your motor combo then your trans is fine.........although, if its an older 27 spline 700r its a little weeker than the later models......but can still be built tough.........trust me, I have killed many a planetaries in the older 700's.

You could also put some corvette servo's in it pretty easily, and could buy one of those nifty pans with the drain plugs and cooling fins in them like B&M makes.

Stall converters are a fairly easy install if you dont allready have one, and a stall will definetly help your 8th or 1/4 times even without a cam.........and a trans cooler is an easy way to make the trans cooler and last longer because of it.

I guess the question is......what kinda power does the motor make, or what is the power level you are wanting to acheive?

 

im shoving a 383 in eventually.... its sitting in my garage being built..... but right now its a 305 with headers, no a/c, open element, taylor wires, not cat, non stock exhaust, no smog....

 

lol... u can always buy my trans 1500

but i agree... trans go all the way
and vette servos. those two things are easy

 

Does anybody have a 350 block for sale? Doesn't have to be a 4 bolt main, or have anything on it. i just need a block. let me know if anyone does.

 

I have a 1992 T/A w/355 HSR. I'm out of Cache, OK for now. I'm in the Army. Deployed to Afghan at the moment. But I'll be home in 8 weeks. I have a ton more plans for the T/A. I think it would be great if there were a bunch of us close by that could get together and chat about our cars. Anyone else in the Lawton, Ft. Sill, Cache, Altus area?

 

Jonny, try craigslist. Tons of 350s on there for cheap.

meyer, sweet car. Stay safe.

 

welcome to the boards meyer.... its nice to see more third gens on this board and i wouldnt mind driving down to a meeting every now and then once my car is back to operating capabilities... jonny there were a bunch on craigslist here in tulsa for cheap.... some that ran for 200-300 bucks.... anyone have an extra e brake from the earlier camaros?

 

Nice ride meyer, but I could do without the colorfull wire loom lmao. Whats the best the cars ran on the track man........what ecm are you running in it.

 

What part of the ebrake do you need? is it for disks or drums? Ive got a full 2.72 drum rear end. from ebrake cables to the shoes.

 

I need the handle thats inside the car... my buddy had an extra one from a later model im guessing 90-92 and it didnt fit... ive got an 89
my cables and brakes are fine i just need the interior component

 

just put a new hood on the car......here is a link, watcha think fellers.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ml#post4293723

 

^Wow, that looks evil....
Better not have a stock 2.8 under there.

 

i love it! i didnt see any on their site though... :-(

 

theres not a pic on the site at all.......witch is kinda a good thing because not a lot of people know about the hood, the only reason I know about it was I seen that other blue car in the link.....and asked him where he got it.


Thanks for the props fella's......and no v-6 here jenson lol!

 

i love it..... you might find it missing in a couple days.... :-)
im still looking for a turbo iroc hood though

 

LOL, when I first saw the hood on that other third gen I thought it was the sweetest hood I had ever seen, just had to have it. I just cant believe that some people dont like it because I think it one of the best lookin hoods ever.

 

the worst third gen hood ive seen is the stock vanilla..... i hate it....

 

Hey wait a Minute!!!! I have that hood!!