Has anyone ever had a problem with their front end links hitting the frame? Every time I go over a bump it sounds like something is clunking on the front passenger side, and there is a noticeable indention and marks right near the end link. Any suggestions?

 

I have no personal experience with that but I have heard of it happening. You just need to shorten the sleeve and bolt portions of the link until you have enough clearance for full suspension travel.

 

Shortening the sleeve is not necessarily needed. If you have the correct size sleeve for your sway bar and suspension setup (lowered cars need a shorter sleeve, for example), then all you need is a shorter bolt. You can cut off the excess on top, but you have to be sure you can still thread on the nut afterwards. Or just get yourself a shorter bolt.

 

I was thinking about moving those three washers on top to the bottom by the bolt head and making the sleeve a little shorter. The only problem with lowering the bolt or making it shorter is that it makes it harder to get the sway bar over the bolt and get the nut started. When I put that end link on the other day, I had to push the sway bar down with the nut and I was just barely able to thread the nut. Suspension was loaded BTW. Doesn't look like I have much choice, so I'll try it. Thanks for the replies.

 

Insert the bolts from the top(Yours are upside down)- Threads hang down underneath the control arm but with plenty of clearence still.

 

That's a great idea! Thanks a lot!

 

Upside down? That's the way they're installed from the factory...

 

If it is only the threaded bolt that is contacting the frame, flipping it over will solve the problem. But if the bar is hitting the frame you may still need to trim the sleeve. I recommended trimming the bolt too as it will stick out (top or bottom) a lot - not really necessary. If your bar itself is contacting the frame, flipping the assembly over will not solve the problem.

Keep in mind that you want the links the exact same length on each side. Also remember that the bar can be moved slightly side to side in those bushings on the subframe to align it for better frame clearance.

HTH

 

I think flipping the bolts solved that problem.

 

The factory way is not always right when it comes to changes in geometry.