I am looking into getting a tubular k member, but I want to know about the controler arms, and I think there are a couple others. What I want to know is what is the advantage of these? Do tubular part have to be used together or can you replace them one at a time as money permits? When I looked at the hawk website, I saw that they offer some type of torque arm to help eliminate tire hop, it is worth it? I am interested in the parts for wieght reasons, but I don't know the others or their general specifics. thanks for any help.

 

Weight reduction is nice, but they tend to be stronger as well. Especially so for rear lower control arms, panhard rod, torque arm, and front A-arms (buy Spohn for these at least).

The tubular K-member doesn't really have any strength advantages that I know of, but it does give a LOT more room under there for MUCH easier access to parts like your starter or exhaust, etc.

 

a tubular k member isnt stronger its just a huge weight saver and gives tons of extra clearence. it saves about 50 pounds over the stock k member and a lil more then that if you decide to use tubular a arms as well

 

"for rear lower control arms, panhard rod, torque arm, and front A-arms (buy Spohn for these at least)."

So...I am not sure why Spohn is the best, so why? Is there a big difference between Spohn and Hawk or even something else?

What do each of these parts do anyway? can they put put on alone, like do the front a-arms need to be changed if I get a tubular k-member for instance? I just want to know if I can upgrade these one by one, or if they need to be bought in groups. thanks

 

Yes you can put these on one at a time, I say that because I know what you mean, your not gonna just throw one A-arm on and go drive it. If it were my car I would start w/ Tubular lower control arms and relocation brackets. They are much stronger and should make your car handle and hook better. You can put all of this stuff on one at a time, its not a big deal...but it may not make a huge difference until its all done. When it is all done it will make a very big difference. The front A-arms qould be high up on the list too if you ask me, the tubular ones are a much nicer piece, that is lighter and seem to be much stronger.

 

the stock Kmember doesnt even weigh 50lbs.

really, it doesnt weigh nearly as much as it looks.



its more of a access/room thing then a weight mod. athough it does take about 12-15lbs off the nose.

 

Yeah, its the A-arms that weigh alot....Tubular A-arms are were you should concentrate for better weight loss.

 

Tubular a-arms don't necessarily save a lot unless you do a coilover conversion.

You only save 4lbs TOTAL over stock a-arms if you buy the Spohn's with spring boxes and poly bushings.

Your best bang-for-the-buck weight loss if you're going drag racing is converting over to a manual steering box. $140 tops to lose ~30 lbs.

devcamaro:

[edit] Also, an aftermarket torque arm will not save you weight. All of the aftermarket torque arms other then possibly the Jegster [haven't weighed] will weigh more then the factory torque arm, but the ability to adjust pinion angle should outweigh the 8-10lbs gain.

[edit 2] Please take any weight stated on this board as an estimate unless someone has physically put the part on a scale. Almost every weight on this board that was not done in this way seems to be greatly exaggerated. I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but with half the weights quoted around here, we should have a 2400 lbs car after all the tubular parts are bolted on and that's just not going to happen.

 

the stock A arms also dont weigh a whole lot.... you save very little going to them.... somthing along the lines of 5-6lbs with the PA/profab ones...

 

realyl stock k member doesnt weight that much.......? just got it off the scales at the shop exactly 82 pds! the tubulay k member can be picked up easily almost i handed if it wasnt for the size. id say theres a weight difference.

 

you need a better scale. thats all im going to say to you.





on this note... also keep in mind that if you mention "a scale to be accurate" in a thread, the same people will reply with the same greatly exaggerated claim, only this time, they have a scale.





also on this note:

isnt it funny how the aftermarket rear LCAs, panhard, and TQ arm weigh MORE then stock, and thats "OK" because we want them overbuilt..... but the same kind of parts up front magicly drop 100s of lbs....?
apples and oranges perhaps, but parts magicly seem to do more of what you want when reading online....

 

I just did the front end stuff. Stock k-member weighs 45 lbs. Replacement weighs just under 23 lbs. This is a stock mild steel replacement one with perches and mounts from PA racing. Extra crap included in removal (couple of brackets, weight difference in shorter bolts,etc) was 26 lbs total when swapping to PA k-member. The spohn arms (mild steel) save a little over 1 (one) pound (stock replacement with pockets). I don't have my notes now at work, but I weighed everything I took off on an accurate digital scale.

Everything but all the dirt that fell out of the k-member.

And yes, I am dork over the weight reduction crap.

 

you may be a dork, but atleast you're absolutly correct on the weights.

 

Haha, exactly. Luckily enough for me, I built my LCAs and PHB out of aluminum and saved a few pounds.