I did a search but couldn't find any specifics. I already read how you can drop the strut side of the A-arm down while leaving the bushings in place, but I simply cannot get the new spring back in. The new spring is actually a used IROC spring, but it is shorter than the F41 spring that was in it before(unless this was changed out earlier).

I replaced the front strut and removed the spring while leaving the A-arm attached at the bushings. I was expecting to be able to squeeze the new spring in place especially since it is shorter as (I have read), but that isn't the case. The angle of the A-arm is too much and the spring won't compress enough if I did try to wedge it in.

I noticed that if I had removed the A-arm bolts at the bushings instead, I would probably be at the same angle because the distance is the same. Also, I don't see how a spring compresser would fit in this situation.


So if I do need a spring compresser, what style would fit?

Am I simply a wus and didn't try hard enough to fit the spring.

Is there a technique that I'm unaware of?

Do I need to let it sit in half way , jack it up a little and whack it in place or am I going to have it coming back my way?

Any help is appreciated...

 

I use a spring compressor to pull the spring down onto the arm.

I then raise the whole assembly up, ball joint included with a jack and then bolt in the control arm.

Goes real fast and easy that way.

U do need a spring compressor that goes inside the spring however.

later
Jeremy

 

I would have never thought of that.

Thanks!

.

 

Here's some reading for you:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ghlight=spring
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ghlight=spring

Sometimes search dosnt work too well, but if you keep going you'll eventually get results.

To make a long story short, you need to use a different method when installing springs with no compressor. Instead of trying to use the a-arm to k-member attaching bolts as the pivot point (and jacking the a-arm up under the balljoint), switch it around. So thread in the balljoint bolt and use that as the pivot point, jack the a-arm up under the a-arm to k-member attaching bolts (centered of course). Then use a screwdriver or something similar to line up the a-arm to k-member bolt holes. Be sure to use a safety chain. Be sure to index the spring properly. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info and links!

I'd like to avoid the A-arm bushings until later as I've noticed that the bolts like to "weld" themselves to the metal part of the bushings and can be more involved than I want at this point.

The driving season is kind of short in Mn and I haven't had the car out very much so they can wait until it gets colder out. I kind of got stuck doing this earlier than planned because the passenger side started to get "sticky" and the spring was broken. I have plans to replace almost everything later this year and maybe some C5 action...

Well, that's my plans anyways...

 

that is how i did my springs/\/\/\. It is NOT easy but after a lot of filthy language and patience it will work. don't forget the safetychain

 

Well, I'm still having trouble getting the springs installed.

I'm having a difficult time compressing the spring enough to clear. The amount I have to crank on the wrench gets to be quite a bit and doesn't seem right.

If I try to simply compress it while it's on the ground, it's like I would have to put it in a vice or something. I did oil the threads on the tool.

I've included a pic to show the difference from the old and new springs. The bottom one is supposed to be from an IROC.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

 

Please don't compress the spring while on the ground. Way too dangerous. A spring compressor can be used to hold the spring to the A-Arm. This holds it in place as the arm is lifted into position. And very little compression is used.

I know you mentioned not wanting to drop the bushing pivot bolts, but that really is the easiest and safest method. Besides, you get a chance to upgrade the bushings at the same time

Here are a couple of threads where I describe spring R & R via the pivot bolt drop method:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ay-change.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...il-spring.html

(one also has reports of spring compressors letting go).

RBob.

 

Yeah, I felt like something wasn't right doing it on the ground like that. Thanks for reinforcing that.

I had tried using the A-arm as a mount, but one of the hooks kept trying to slide to the inside and the spring started to become crooked and the force to turn the wrench increased as well. For some reason when using the the A-arm method, I need over 2 inches of compression.

I actually have another set of A-arms that I was going to use, but wanted to have my C-5 conversion ready when I did this. (The A-arms need to be cleaned up as well.) This may be what I have to do then.

Thanks for the links!
I'll check them out.
Thanks again for your help.

.

 

USE CRAZYHAWAIIAN METHOD, IT WORKS GREAT , IT TOOK ME ABOUT 40 MINUTES TO CHANGE OUT BOTH SIDES , YOU JUST NEED TO MESS AROUND PRYING THE AARM A BIT TO LINE UP THE HOLES. NO SPRING COMPRESSOR = WAY LESS HEADACHES, THEY ARE SCARY!

 

I used a spring compressor (the inside ones) but I had to cut some of the end off cuz it was too long. Then it worked fine.

Rafael

 

There is a hole in the top of the spring pocket, if your carefull you can get the threaded shaft to fit through it and it helps to guide your spring into the spring seat.