Everyone with the EIBACH Pro Kit Post your pictures!!
Everyone with the EIBACH Pro Kit Post your pictures!!
I'd like to see as many pictures as I can, I don't want to go as low as the sportlines and I'd like to see as many pictures of the pro-kit before going with it. I've searched the boards and seen a few but I want more! Thanks guys as you can see my car is squating on its ***, it's just wrong and must go come April!!

I would like the height equal to what the rear is at now do you think the pro-kit will give me it or will it be like the front?

I would like the height equal to what the rear is at now do you think the pro-kit will give me it or will it be like the front?
Last edited by Jono; Mar 19, 2002 at 03:43 AM.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 459
Likes: 2
From: Finland
Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 385
Transmission: th700r4+Edge 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
In my -85 z28 with pro-kit ,dimension at rear from center of hub to fenderlip is 370mm,and same dimension at front is 365mm.
Jono, I like you're look better than mine. I've got the jacked up in the rear look (which isn't a good thing). The fronts have sagged badly.
I too am looking at the Prokit and new shocks along with some new LCA's and relocation brackets.
Bob
I too am looking at the Prokit and new shocks along with some new LCA's and relocation brackets.
Bob
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My car got a saggy rear with the front sitting a bit higher. It disgusts me quiet a bit... I've heard a couple of times that if you get the Pro-kit, it might not change the height of your car as it is now except to even it out since the stock springs are already sagging, giving you a slight 'drop'. Dunno... Anyone can clear this up? I've been thinking about dropping my car ever since I got it, but there is a speed bump that I scrape on every dang time on the way to college. Any lower, I'd probally high center on it!
Humvee
Humvee
i really like that firebird, and the height is so perfect its complete symettry. The wheel well and tires match so nicely, I'm definitely getting the pro kit soon. I don't like the look that happens when the tire goes under the wheel well, like some of those slammed civics and stuff, its just ugly. That firebird is so nice.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Car: 1991 T/A - Sold (sniff) 1980 T/A Pa
My stock springs were saggy, and I only saw a 1/2"-3/4" drop. but it leveled it out very nicely. I immediately felt a handling improvement.
I have a 3 ton floor jack and it doesn't fit under the front since I lowered the car. I usually take a bottle jack and slip it under the a-arm first. Otherwise I have a decent set of steel ramps with extensions that I got from AutoZone that work very well.
I don't have any problems with small to medium speed bumps, as the spring rate is good. The larger ones I slow way down. Oh, and watch the driveways, hit 'em at an angle.
I like what the kit did for my car in both appearance and handling. Get a 19, 20 and 21 mm 1/2" drive sockets and the same size box end wrenches, it will make the task much easier. I took the shocks off (I replaced them at the same time) and dropped the a-arm down and out popped the spring. The rears were super simple. Just follow the instructions in the Chiltons manual and you'll have no problems.
Good Luck!
I have a 3 ton floor jack and it doesn't fit under the front since I lowered the car. I usually take a bottle jack and slip it under the a-arm first. Otherwise I have a decent set of steel ramps with extensions that I got from AutoZone that work very well.
I don't have any problems with small to medium speed bumps, as the spring rate is good. The larger ones I slow way down. Oh, and watch the driveways, hit 'em at an angle.
I like what the kit did for my car in both appearance and handling. Get a 19, 20 and 21 mm 1/2" drive sockets and the same size box end wrenches, it will make the task much easier. I took the shocks off (I replaced them at the same time) and dropped the a-arm down and out popped the spring. The rears were super simple. Just follow the instructions in the Chiltons manual and you'll have no problems.
Good Luck!
and dropped the a-arm down and out popped the spring.
You don't need a spring compressor to do this job, but put your Jack under the A-Arm while you losen everything, and let it down slowly. Then pop the spring out with a crowbar from a position where it can't hit you... Like around the front of the car.
There is a LOT of force pent up in those compressed springs, You will see when it does finally "come free."
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,467
Likes: 1
From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Well I don't plan on lowering my car any, but I do know some of the guys w/ 'em, place some 2x4s in front of their tires and drive up on them; then they use a jack. Hope that helps.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Car: 1991 T/A - Sold (sniff) 1980 T/A Pa
Correct about the jack. Like I said, follow the directions in the Chiltons. I never had the springs (new or old) come flying out, but then I was using a bottle jack that works very well at s-l-o-w-l-y backing down. Usually I had to bounce the a-arm with my foot to give it an extra 1" to free the spring. If I'm not mistaken it took me less than 3 hours to do all 4 corners (shocks, struts and springs).
I have to Drive my car up on about 4" of Ramp to have any hope of Getting my Crafstman 3 Ton under the K member.
Its a REAL pain in the ***. And when the fronts jacked up, You can forget about the rear.. and Vice versa. Getting the Car up On 4 stands is a Long process of little here, little there...
Mine is lowerd 3-3.5" Tho.
Its a REAL pain in the ***. And when the fronts jacked up, You can forget about the rear.. and Vice versa. Getting the Car up On 4 stands is a Long process of little here, little there...
Mine is lowerd 3-3.5" Tho.
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