Hey gang. Just picked up my first third GEN Firebird. 305 TBI. I have spark and I have fuel but she will not start. Drained all the old gas out and have about a half a tank of fresh gas. Original pump was pumping but not delivering so I checked it out and the rubber hose was deteriorated in the tank. Replaced the pump and the hose now I have nice delivery. The injectors both spray the same amount into the throttle. I have pretty decent spark for what I consider decent. Replaced the ignition module because originally it was no good. What would prevent this car from grabbing?? Technically the TBI looks to me like a carburetor with injectors on top. So with spark and fuel why wouldn't she grab.? The one thing I noticed that is interesting while cranking is that the temperature gauge shoots up to 260. Would that possibly be telling the car not to start somehow? It's still dumps fuel so to me the answer is that doesn't matter. I do find that strange though about how to gauge goes up to 260 while cranking. I'm 99.9 the timing is fine and has never been touched. The car did sit for years and so far I've only got three new plugs in out of the eighth. The old plugs didn't look absolutely horrible so I find it hard to believe they wouldn't fire. I confirmed spark both from the coil to the distributor and on three different wires. Too tight to get to all of them. Ok thoughts???? Thanks!!

 

 

 

Have you checked the compression?

Will it start with starting fluid?

 

Didn't do compression yet. Gotta get the tester. Will not start with either gas down the throttle or starting fluid. That's what kills me.

 

Getting closer. Replaced starter and have a much much stronger crank now. Still no start but she definitely sounds healthier. Took off drivers side valve cover and definitely some nasty sludge there. Have to clean it out. Passenger side is gonna be rough to get to with everything on that side. What are the 2 small circular passageways on either side of the head for. Cause both were clogged with sludge so I scooped it out lol. Any help would be appreciated!

 

Anybody?? I have gone through the entire process of setting timing correctly. Following the book with turning the oil pump gear and lining everything else up etc etc. She cranks like she wants to start but nothing. At first i must have put it 180 out and she was popping which at least that showed signs of life. Now nothing. If I have air fuel and spark and the timing is right but she won't start with starting fluid or with injectors firing...what the hell is wrong?? The plugs are almost bone dry too. The oil is just oil...antifreeze just antifreeze. Where is the gas going?? What would block the fuel from getting to the cylinders. Little help please.
Thanks.

 

Your thread title is incorrect. If it cranks, the engine is "turning over". What you have is "cranks but won't start".

My first thought was fouled plugs.

I would yank the plugs out, disable the injectors and the ignition, and crank the engine for ten seconds. Then clean the plugs if needed. Perform a compression test if you like; and a leakdown test if you like, while the plugs are out. Charge the battery as needed after all the cranking.

Set the crankshaft about five or ten degrees before TDC on COMPRESSION of #1 cylinder. (Do NOT set it at 5--10 degrees before TDC on #1 EXHAUST.) Then verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal of the distributor cap; and that the teeth of the pickup coil in the distributor are nicely aligned with the teeth of the reluctor. Adjust distributor if needed to align the teeth. Install cap, install plugs, Enable the injectors and the spark. Crank--it should start. Then use a timing light to set the ignition timing using the GM procedure.

You need four things to make that engine run:
1. Burnable air-fuel mixture
2. Compression (~80 is very low, but the cylinder should run. 150-ish is pretty normal, depending on altitude, cranking speed, compression ratio, and camshaft profile.)
3. Spark across the plug gap, at the proper time. You may have good spark at the plug-end of the plug wire, but if the plug is fouled, the spark doesn't jump the gap.
4. A free-flowing exhaust system (converter not plugged, exhaust pipe not blocked)

 

Here's the latest, best crank, closest I have come to starting. This is with foot at least 75% down on the throttle. Some say not enough fuel, others say not strong enough spark. I do not have another hand in helping me to spray starting fluid down but if I spray it in the throttle then run and crank it...makes no difference. I'm so, so close...I think.

 

Replaced the last 2 plugs (they were soaked with gas) and all the wires. Some crumbled in my hands. Still a no go. She cranks like she wants to run! So what would cause only certain cylinders to be getting fuel?? Cylinder 1 is definitely dry. Broke valves? Wouldn't I hear that? Need some more input, thanks. And I didn't do compression test yet but cylinder one blew my hand hard into the inner fender so I'd say that has some compression going on lol. Help help help