Well I know I have a crappy camera but I would like some criticism from others who have done this on how my heads look. These are my practice heads(crappy 624 castings) and I want to make sure I get this right so when I do the heads on my car(world s/r) I get maximum potential out of them. I just want to make sure I have a good 'idea' of what to do. All criticism welcomed! Here are some pics:

Pictures are Here: http://community.webshots.com/album/107729448eQqjDi

 

You seem to have the basic covered.
Not much to criticisize ....

See the bulge in the common wall (red arrow in both pics). This where the port passes the bolt hole in the head (orange arrow) You can straighten this wall out at that point. Grind and straighten the bulge back. This will increase flow and "port bias" increasing "port bias" increases flow swirl as the air flows into the chamber.

The roof of the port at this point (blue arrows) between the common wall and guide boss is critical ( high flow area) You can widen and deepen this area more to good effect.

Then you can raise the whole roof of the port ( green arrow all the way from deep in the port to the entrance.

make sure you straighten out your port grinding on the walls and roof. A flat file will show the high and low spots.

i don't see a problem with you getting good results on your S/R's...

 

and

 

I have Vizards Book on how to port heads and he says to leave that hump alone where it begins and at its apex but then after the apex, on the backside of the hump(it would be the area you have pointed to) you can straigten it out and push it back? Or is this what you mean?

Do you think I can slim the valve guides anymore?

I'm glad Im not porting these heads for real, they are really thin castings, you cant see it in the pic but I went through the area where the valve stud goes and theres a little pin hole. I've heard the World S/R heads have extra meat for porting which will make me much mroe comfortable.

I see what you are saying about straightening the port roof...this was my first time with the cutters so they kind of got away from me here in the beginning(as you can see)...the file trick seems like a good idea..thanks! I wanted to raise the port roof more but am a little afraid of hitting air with these castings...how far up can I go on the World S/R Heads?

 

You do not have to completely remove the hump in the common wall (you'll break through before you get it perfect.) but you can open it up some. If you can get a chance to see a Vortec head's intake port you'll see the difference.
Squirt some water with the garden hose through the intake port and you'll see the flow pattern as the water runs throught the port.

On a radical all out race head they actually open this area right up till they break through into the bolt hole then press in a
tube sleeve in the bolt hole to seal up the wall again.

Don't sweat the little hole created right at the port entrance (valve cover bolt hole). When the bolt is in the hole its fine. Happens when ever you port a late smog chevy head.

 

Might want to work on the area with the arrow.

Although this area only responds mostly at very high lift.
The overall contour looks good to me.
Like I said, you seem to have a good handle on this.

The 64cc S/R heads can use some chamber deshrouding.
I think that's covered in D.V.'s book. I don't have that one.

 

Thanks for all the tips, I really appreciate it.

I'm not sure what the exhaust port looks like on my world s/r but on these heads there really wasn't a ridge at all from the valve cutter(not like the intakes)....I really just spent time slimming the guide bosses down and opening up the port wall on the cylinder wall side...raised the room a tad...is that all there really is to do?

 

Yes the exhaust port responds more, from less because
it is much smaller. Don't forget to smooth and radius the
short side of the port. Usually a very sharp angle there.

No need to make the exhaust port huge. Especially if the headers are only 1.5" dameter.

i thnk you're ready to tackle the S/R's ...