This is my first post, so wish me luck.

I had just installed a Lunati can in my 305. I has .480" lift in/ex with a 230 avdertised duration.

I realize it may be a little radical for my engine.

Anyways, upon initial start-up, it wouldn't idle, so I re-adjusted the lifters. It helped a little but the car still runs horrible. I still have the stock computer controlled carb. and dist. on their. Would the car run that bad b/c of them? I put the timing gear on with the two dots pointing towards each other. Could the distributer be in 180* off?? I have about 10 in Hg vacuum. Would this indicate a vacuum leak or is it because of the cam?

Any help would be great.
Thanx.



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1984 Trans Am Coupe
Mods:
K&N
3" Mandrel Exhaust
Hooker Headers
Lunati Cam
1" Lowering Springs
Clarion CD
Kicker Speakers
2 MTX 4000
Pearl White Paint

"Live It To The Last"

 

Wow. That's a big stick for a 305. I would check initial timing. Does it start at all? Does it try to backfire out the carb?

And you have this combo ran off the stock computer? I foresee problems there too. the car won't run to it's full potential unless you do some computer changes.

let us know about the timing now. You didn't overtighten the rockers did you?

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350 4 bolt main, Speed-O-Motive 383 stroker kit, re-sized rods ground for clearance,TRW Forged pistons,10.7:1 compression,HPC Coated RPM intake, Speed Demon 750 cfm carb,World Products Sportsman II heads,2.02/1.60 valves, Comp Cam 1.6 roller rockers, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,240/246@.050 with .540 lift,Crane pushrods,ATI damper,Proform HEI and MSD6A box,HPC coated 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" exhaust with 40 series mufflers,TH350 with B&M 3000 stall, Powertrax NoSlip Locker, 4.11 gears.

 

The engine does start and it runs good once it revs to about 2000 and up. I do believe the computer could be causing some of the problems but I don't think it could be causing it to barely idle.

 

Make sure that the valve lash is set right. If it is then have you tried breaking in the cam? Go ahead and start it and set the idle at Lunati's specs. Usually it is around 2500 rpm. Let it run for about 30 minutes. When I do this I can usually hear the motor starting to smooth out. Are you using the 305 valve springs? They probably aren't up to task. I still wonder about the valve lash. Did you set the valves while the motor was running? I always do. It seems to work better, just messier. Loosen the rocker until it just starts to tick. Then tighten it just enough to stop the ticking. Then 1/2 turn and your done. Do this to all 16 and they will be perfect. Hope this helps. By the way, welcome to the board.

 

I would look For a Vaccum leak, That seems a little low To me.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Huck,

10" Hg from a low compression 305 with high lift and duration numbers like that can be expected. You might have some vacuum leakage, but you can't expect 15" Hg with that setup unless you really advance the cam timing. If you overdo that, you won't have any exhaust flow.

Did you degree the cam when you installed it? A few degrees is going to make a significant difference on the little engine. Since you have the E4ME the ECM only tries to control the fuel mixture to a minimal degree. Your timing of the distributor cannot be 180° off if it starts and runs.

94 is right about the lash adjustment. Setting them cold is tough with a new cam, since the profile changes a lot as soon as the engine is started. Follow the directions for the cam break-in then readjust the lash.

Don't expect a lot of vacuum. You might even need a separate pump to make the power brakes effective.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

ok fimilar to this one the cam is too big... well for the stock converter. its starts about 2000 right then it needs a stall i guarantee it!!

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89 firebird formula

356 9:1 compression
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake
#1405 edlebrock 600
882 casting 202/160 valves
msd 6al
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b&m trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!


future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!

 

If that's the old "Stage 2" cam, (286º 480" 230°@.050") you'll hate it. 10" of vacuum sounds about right. It will have no bottom end whatsoever, no leave, and it will never idle right. It is an old design cam, works good in certain circle-track applications but isn't very good on the street even in a larger motor, and is really only staisafctory in a stick car. Besides all that, it's way wrong for any kind of computer-controlled car, but especially a 305. It's enough cam that it's hard to get it to run right in any motor with the stock carb.

Your carb's idle circuit is entirely too lean to work with a cam that big. Fuel feed at idle is directly proportional to vacuum; so since your vacuum is about half of what it is designed to be, the carb will feed about half enough fuel. It will always idle rough, die at stoplights, have major trouble when it's cold, and all that other fun stuff.

94's valve lash adjustment method works good, except that I would add one instruction: "zero lash" all 16 valves to where they just barely stop ticking, then turn the motor off and add the ½ turn to all 16 with it not running. You'll get done a whole lot quicker, and make a much smaller pool of oil in your driveway.

Long term, you're going to need to get a different cam, or completely rebuild your motor around that one which is not the best way to approach engine design. The Comp XE262H is a great choice for that motor, and works well with the computer and the stock carb, and won't turn the bottom end soggy like that other one.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports