my engine shuts off sometimes when im driving real slow like in a parking lot, it also runs really rough when its just sitting there sometimes. the check engine light turns on before I start the car, I havent had it looked at yet tho as I just got the car yesterday

1987 camaro

engine:
2.8l v6

178,000 miles
don't know what if anything has ever been replaced on the engine. Sorry im illiterate when it comes to cars



thanks for any input

 

Does the check engine light go off after about 2 seconds? If so, everything is normal as far as that is concerned. If it stays on, time to pull the codes with the hi-tech code puller that you get from only one place: the desk drawer (or wherever you keep paper clips).

As far as running rough, could you describe it a bit more? Like what do the RPM's do? my first inclination would be when's the last time it had a good, thorough tune up?

 

Ive recently invested alot of money in my camaro cuz i just got it...what ive done so far is replaced the rear -stabilizer bar, had all the brakes redone, new waterpump, new power steering pump/hoses. The car has been to my mechanic many times recently to get everything up to par....the only thing im not sure about is the fuel filter....everything else was checked out and i was told it was ok and it has been in and out of my mechaninc's place for awhile now but the problems keep stacking up..thank *** he doesnt charge me for labor id be more then screwed.

NOW TO THE PROBLEM:

my check engine light randomly turns on, but sometimes turns off. Ive noticed a problem like trajik's when the light is on. if the engine idles for too long, it shuts down the engine...i actually had this happen while the car was moving. BE CAREFUL!!! IT DOESNT JUST HAPPEN AT SLOW SPEEDS! ANYTIME YOUR FOOT ISNT ON THE GAS THE ENGINE COULD TURN OFF. I was going 35 when the most recent thing happend.

more or less, if my foot isnt on the gas, the engine drops to a really unnaturally low idle and eventually shuts the engine off. if it doesnt do that, then when im at a complete stop, with my foot on the brake pedal, u can feel the car rock forwards and backwards...i noticed that my rpms fluctuate within a 1000rpm range when this happens, and then eventually it will in turn drop really low and still shut off....HELP!!!!

 

some things to check (in this order) -

TPS
IAC
O2's
EGR


you can find out about how to adjust and set your TPS in the Tech Articles from the home page of this website (you'll also find many many more useful write ups in that section).

I'm assuming that both of you guys have done a thorough tune-up already.

I'll suggest just for ****s n giggles that you get a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and watch your fuel gauge when your car suddenly stops...


Something else that we need to know... when your car will just "stop" does it sputter down and die, or does it just abruptly cut off? If it sputters it's a fuel delivery problem (not necessarily the fuel pump), if it just abruptly stops out of no-where (seemingly) then it's electrical problem.

 

i also heard that its a big probability that is is the AIR (air injection reaction) system...i can almost guarentee that if trajik
goes and has his emissions tested he'll also fail the test more then likely for NOx emissions...im hoping that if i fix/play around with the AIR System inthe morning that it will fix the problem...ill let everyone know how it pans out

 

your AIR system shouldnt be able to control something like that. And I hardly ever hear about those going out, the little smog container might be flooded, but not the AIR system, if you're thinking along the lines of smog then take your car to an exhaust shop and have them test if your cat is clogged or not, this could, (with very big emphasis on could) cause it. But it's doubtful... a clogged up exhaust normally causes glowing headers/manifolds.

Plus the AIR system only comes into play during open loop, it helps the catalytic converter warm up faster, it shuts off during closed loop (when the car is warmed up)

Are your cars experiencing this problem closed AND open loop, or just one of them?

 

both

 

I just got a tune up yesterday and it still happens,I havent remembered to look at the RPMS because usually the engine just flat out dies and I need to restart it right there. the radio/headlights will stay on. so far it only happens to me when im somewhere like a parking lot or drive thru window. it sounds like cjrzasa might have the same problem as i do.

sellmanb what is tps iac o2's egr??

 

just be careful...until i find out whats wrong with mine im kind of not driving it...it started out just when the car was stationary but you might want to take some extra precautions when your vehicle is moving as well. it got to the point where mine starts to act up randomly but its always when my foot is off the gas (meaning i can be driving and it will just die while im coasting). as soon as i can fix mine ill let you know what i did and hopefully it will fix yours too.

O2 is the oxygen sensor, i believe its in the actual air intake manifold that comes out in the front/center on the engine and runs to your air filter(s).

the IAC is the idle air control valve havent found it yet

and the AIR system is the Air Injection Reaction System.

the last thing that might be the problem is a fuel line or the fuel filter...those are the only things i havent had looked at yet so hopefully on of these four things will fix the problem

 

okay if both closed and open loop then disgregard the O2's and EGR (well you can basically rule out EGR because it's low-speed movement, and EGR usually kicks in at highway long trips deal )

Click this link to see the tech article on how to adjust your TPS and IAC. It has a list of "tools" you'll need, if you get lost on something then do a for what you're lost on and you can typically find answers on things like the location of a part or what-be-it.

If you still get thoroughly confused feel free to ask in a post

Also something that could be your problem is a faulty ignition module. They are inside the distributor cap, and really easy to take out... if you bring it to Advanced Auto they can check it for you. If you dont want to have to deal with taking it apart I'm sure the guys at Advanced Auto wouldnt mind taking it out for you (given you drive the car there hah).

 

may be as simple as turning up the idle...
i dont know.

 

i seem to have fixed mine.
looking under the hood i found that my air switching valve didnt have a vaccuum hose hooked up to it and it was covered in goo. i cleaned it off, and then dug around for this loosed vaccuum hose. i found it but halfway thru it it was melted and broken off. i ended up finding a vaccuum hose in my garage that worked and i hooked it up and now everything seems to run fine. I reset the ECM so when i restarted the car it would "re-learn" my driving and such. the first time i started the car, it still choked and turned off after about 30 seconds. Now, ive driven the car (accumulatively over 12 hours) for about an hour and it hasnt choked or shut off once. Hope this gives some insight. if for some reason it is only a temporary solution, i should find out pretty soon and ill let you all know.

BTW- the air switching valve on the 2.8L model is located between the front passenger side shock tower, the alternator, and the engine coolant overflow tank.

 

i'm glad you found it to be a vacuum leak and not something very expensive heh.

 

ok im gonna check the air switching valve tommorow. I want to try to reset the RPM's except I don't know what the IAC or Throttle body look like, or where they are under the hood

is there is somewhere online i could find this out or anyone that could help me out with it ?