My 91 RS has experiences low oil pressure (zero) at a warm idle. Average oil pressure has also dropped sub '30'. Does anyone have any tips on a fix? about 135000mi, original 305 and does have leaky head gaskets. also how labor intensive is the head gasket replacement?

 

Welcome aboard.

Before you go jumping into assumptions, test the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. There are a few places to put this. That will tell you if you're oil PSI is really messed up or not. If it is, try replacing the oil sensor. Start with the simple things first. Unless you can do a head gasket swap in under 10 minutes.....

 

whereabouts do i get a mech. PSI gauge and what will that cost? the head gasket question was just in addition its causing a bit of a rough idle.

 

The mech. oil gauge is $20-30 at any autoparts chain.

If you do suspect a blown HG, you can do a compression or leak down test to be sure.

 

there is a visible antifreeze leak from the front of the block.

with the oil PSI though would it only read wrong at a warm idle if the sensor was bad? could that be related to the leakey head gasket

 

Well, if you are VISIBLY leaking antifreeze, it's time to replace it. WHy anyone drives around on a blown headgasket puzzles me.

 

If you have coolant visibly leaking from the block, you obviously have an issue there. Loss of the rest of the coolant and overheating are sure to follow as it worsens - and it will.

Yes, that's usually what happens when oil pressure sensors go bad in my experience. When the engine is cold,the oil is thicker and it will read pressure, but as the oil warms and gets thinner the reading will go very low or just drop to zero.

If you don't hear any lifters clacking or rods knocking after the engine is warm, just replace the sensor and see what happens. It'll cost less than buying a mechanical gage to check it, and then possibly replacing it anyway....

It could only be related to your head gasket problem if you're seeing water in the oil or vice-versa.

 

the gasket leak is a new development but my college schedule isnt very forgiving as far as replacement. anyone have any ideas about the intensity and time required for the job?

also i have one other issue. the front end rattles, good mechanic at inspection said it was prob. the bearing as ball joints and all were good. as i see it the spring isnt connected to the strut making this an at home job? Thank you all for your assistance.

where is the sensor?

 

by the distributor. on the driveres side. cant miss it.

 

on another thread a guy talked about pulling the plug on the front of the block and putting the mech gauge on there. opinions?